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September - October 2004 news

20 October, 2004 Irina Vjalenkova: I'll climb, I'll risk...

19 October, 2004 Cho Oyu Golden jubelee: Irina Vjalenkova called from Kathmandu

13 October, 2004 Denis Urubko: "Mountain Goddesses".

12 October, 2004

Soviet Mountaineering History

Happy Birthday to Eugeny Vinogradsky! Master of Sports since 1974. 7-times Champion of USSR, "Snow Leopard", 4-times Champion of Russia. Five Everest climbs. Kangchenjunga traverse. Everest North Face in 2004.

8 October, 2004 Irina Vjalenkova (Byelorussia) summited Cho Oyu.

6 October, 2004 Marina Ershova, lady climber from Saint Petersburg, Snow Leopard, who has summited Cho Oyu in 2000 and Shisha Pangma in 2002, the member of Jubelee Everest expedition in 2003, are going to climb K2 next Spring via Abruzzi Spur. Only one Russian lady attempted K2 before - Elena Kulishova in 1992.

6 October, 2004 Irina Vjalenkova, Byelorussian lady climber, who's a member of International Cho Oyu expedition, hopes to summit without sherpa's help, because her Sherpa suddenly turned back to Kathmandu, and Irina stayed alone...

6 October, 2004 The team of Sverdlovsk region (Ural) has finished its project Tengri-Tag: climbers have summited Khan Tengri, Mramornaya Stena, 6350 m (Marble Wall), Karly-Tau (5450 m) and the first ascent of the new route of Gorky peak (6010 m) in July- August.

20 September, 2004 The 50th anniversary of the first summit of Cho Oyu (8201 m) was selebrated in Kathmandu last weekend. In 1954, Austrian climber Herbert Tichy, and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama did the climb. Four Singaporeans with four sherpas summitted Cho Oyu September, 18. Irina Vjalenkova, the Bielorussian lady climber, is going to summit Cho Oyu as a member of International Expedition. Irina lost all fingers after the frostbites got at Dhaulagiri.

 

Mountaineering
World's news

12 October, 2004 Ivan Vallejo (Ecuador), Santiago Sagaste (Spain), Oriol Rivas and Ramon Rosell (Andorra) summited Shisha Pangma Oct.,10 via the British route, SW side. The day before Chech climbers reached the top. It was Ivan's 10 8000-er (he summited Makalu Spring 2004)

11 October, 2004 Six members and 4 high altitude Sherpas of "Indian Army Kanchenjunga Expedition 2004 " team summited Kangchenjunga (8586 m) yesterday at 09:55 a.m.

6 October, 2004 Inaki Ochoa summited Cho Oyu September, 28 - it's his third 8000-er this year, after Makalu and K2. He began his summit bid from ABC (5650 m) at midnight, and reached the top at 11-16 local time. The Spaniard Karlos Pauner summited just after him, he started from C2 (7100 m). Both climbed without supplementary oxygen.

10 September, 2004 Xabier Ormazabal , who finished his program with the peak Communism climb this summer, became the first Spanish Snow Leopard


19.10.2004 Cho Oyu Golden Jubelee

Byelorussian climber Irina Vjalenkova returned to Kathmandu after successful expedition to Cho Oyu. She reached the summit in spite of her Sherpa had suddenly gone back to Kathmandu when she was at the route. But it wasn't the single bad new for Irina - all her money missed from her tent in the base camp while she summited.

The first Jubelee press conference took place in Kathmandu Yeti Hotel October,16. Cho Oyu summiters arriived there. Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler and Huber Helmut - the member of the first Cho Oyu climb - were among the honoured guests.

 

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