March 2005 news
Spanish climber Eduardo
Perez Errea (21) from Barselona died on Elbrus on March, 26
- according the message from Elbrus Rescue Service. He climbed
alone and without registration in Rescue Service and without
radio. Our condolences to friends and relatives...
The winners of All-Russia Mountaineering Winter Championship
became the team of Dagestan Mountaineering Federation for
their climb to Yerydag (NW Face, through carnices
at the right bastion), 6b Russian Grade, first ascent.
Members: Shanavazov (leader), Afanasjev, Bibin, Grigorov,
Jannu team was awarded by Golden Edelweiss March, 26 in Moscow
- national prize for the best climb of the year.
Russian Mountaineering Federation has awarded ranks
the Master of Sports to
Alexander Belkin (Kemerovo)
Maxim Vlasov (Magnitogorsk)
Lev Dorfman (Moscow)
Maxim Krivosheev (Irkutsk)
Andrew Mariev (Togliatti)
Daniil Primerov (Yekaterinburg)
Alexander Shabunin (N. Tagil)
Andrew Shonin (Magnitigorsk)
March, 2005 Great rock climbing event - St.Petersburg
Festival "Climbing for Everybody" will
be held on 5-9 of May, 2005. The festival programme
March, 2005 Panama
climber Alexander Ivan Chen Arrocha and Phurba Tamang Sherpa
(members of of the Summit Climb team, led by American Dan
Mazur) died while descending from Pumori, which they summited
March, 25. They slipped down and fell to the glacier.
March, 2005 Silvio
Mondinelli with partners set BC and brought loads
to 5000 m March, 27. Very difficult route, they have fixed
500 m of ropes. They had already Puja in BC. Acclimatization
MArch, 2005 Indian Army has finally officially
confirmed that an all-women team will attempt Everest this
spring. However, the uneasy political situation in Nepal
has dissuaded the army officials to enter the country. The
team will launch the climb from Tibet instead.
March, 2005 Inaki
Ochoa was caught in an avalanche yesterday during
his solo attempt on Shisha Pangma. He fell 100 on the North
Ridge route. Luckily, he suffered no serious harm and made
it back safely to BC.
March, 2005 Inaki
Ochoa: solo summit push on Shisha Pangma. Yesterday
he hurried up to a small camp he had previously set at 5900.
He's going to set a tent at 6800 today, and, if he feels
well, he could try for the summit the same day. Otherwise,
he’ll rest in the tent and attempt the summit on Saturday.
route - NW side, possibly through the normal route or may
be a variation - depending on the conditions.
The solo climber will have to traverse the Central summit
(8008m) and move until he reaches the main summit (8027m).
March, 2005 Inaki
Ochoa reached Shisha Pangma BC on March 4. He's
ready for a solo bid on the mountain. He climbed a nearby
5800m peak for a better view of Shisha’s route conditions.
“It looks OK.” The climber will be completely alone on the
mountain except for a Sherpa cook who will remain in BC,
spent a few weeks in the Khumbu Valley to acclimatize before
heading for Tibet. He reported on the political situation
as being fairly quiet in Kathmandu, but was concerned about
road blocks, as he intended to enter Tibet by road. (www.mounteverest.net)
Iran Mountaineering Federation was organizing an all female
Everest expedition this year. Sixty nine women accepted
the challenge and attended various test climbs since December.
The expedition won’t be exclusively feminine though: men’s
mountaineers will accompany this expedition and also attempt
to summit themselves. The last successful climbs by an Iranian
team on Everest was in May 1998, when four members summited
the mountain. Final results (women):
1- Farkhondeh Sadegh
2- Rezvan Salmasi
3- Laleh Keshavarz
4- Roya Sadat-Ghazanfari
5- Leila Bahrami
6- Nasrin Nemati (Reserved)
7- Parvin Rezaei (Reserved) (www.mounteverest.net)
March, 2005 Nepal: KATHMANDU
-- Seventy Maoist rebels were killed after a major clash
with Nepal's security forces. The clash erupted at Mahammadpur
village as security forces were clearing a roadblock placed
by the rebels.The gunbattle started in the early evening
and lasted four hours.
security personnel were also killed during the fighting
in Bardiya, about 500 km southwest of Kathmandu on Monday
MArch, 2005 Indian Army has finally officially confirmed
that an all-women team will attempt Everest this spring. However,
the uneasy political situation in Nepal has dissuaded the army officials
to enter the country. The team will launch the climb from Tibet
chief General J J Singh explained the decision to media last Friday
in New Dehli: "The Nepalese government had cleared the team’s
attempt from the southern side. But keeping in view the team’s security
and the movement of stores over a long distance prone to Maoists
attacks, we have decided to let the women team make the bid from
the Chinese route."
the threat was serious for Indian climbers: Intelligence officials
told India Daily that the Maoists were planning to kidnap the Indian
10-member team, comprising women aged 20 to 27 years, was selected
after screening 140 volunteers. The team includes women from various
parts of the country, from West Bengal to Gujarat, and from the
remote areas of Leh and Ladakh to the villages of Orissa.
women have trained at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi,
and they have been working out hard, indeed.
high-altitude glacier marches, the women were trained in ice, snow
and rock climbing skills. As a preparatory climb, the women summited
Mt. Abi Gamin (7,355 m) in the Garhwal Himalayas in October 2004.
selected women also trained in sub-zero temperatures at the Siachen
glacier in January. "The team braved the harsh terrain and
hostile climate with tremendous mental and physical toughness,"
an army spokesman told the New Kerala.
team will fly to Lhasa via Kathmandu and from there they will drive
to Everest’s North side BC. The leader of the expedition is Maj.
S.S. Shekhawat, who has climbed Everest twice. The team is supported
by a technical team of experienced climbers from the Indian Army.
- all-male, this time - Indian Air Force team was confirmed as well
earlier last week. They will follow the women team and climb the
North Col route as well.
March, 2005 Inaki
Ochoa was caught in an avalanche yesterday during his solo
attempt on Shisha Pangma. He fell 100 on the North Ridge route.
Luckily, he suffered no serious harm and made it back safely to
Inaki set Camp I at 6000m but resumed the climb after pitching the
tent. He wanted to check the snow conditions and open a trail for
the summit bid the following day.
was doing good,” he told his home team. “But after traversing a
plateau at 6.500m, I noticed that the snow conditions there were
bad. The risk of avalanche was too high, so I turned back.
moment later I heard a roar behind me. I turned around to check
what was going on: There was nothing I could do, I was caught and
fell about 100 meters down the slope. It has been so scary!".
is now in back Base Camp with a strong pain in his right shoulder:
"I don’t know what’s wrong with the shoulder; it may be sprained.
I'll head home to have it treated andto recover before going for
Dhaulagiri and Annapurna in April and May. I expect I can make it
back to Kathmandu by the 23rd of March. I’ll go to hospital there
for first aid and then travel home to Spain to rest for some days."