May 2005 news
climb K2 West Face - next project of the RUssian high-altitude
team begins! The
team'll go to Pakistan in June for the reconnaissanse.
May, 2005 7 members of the "7 Summits CLub"
team reached Everest top today. Karo Ovasapjan (at 7 a.m.),
Alexander Jakovenko (at 7-30), than Nickolay Cherny, Igor
Pokhvalin, Yuri Taidakov, Ivan Dusharin and Gregory Skalder.
And six high-altitude Sherpas led by sirdar Mingma (4th Everest
climb). Special congratulations - for Nickolay Cherny!
Gleb Sokolov and Yuri Uteshev
summited Cho Oyu May, 22 at 1-30 p.m. Nobody
climbed after that. There were 320 pretendents for that top
thias season, but only 14 summited. Siberian team will leave
expedition's aborted. Serguey Bogomolov from Base Camp:
"The Mount not only took off our climb chance, but it
took off our gear..." Detailes soon.
May , 2005 7
Everest expedition; Viktor
Mlinar and Marko
Lihteneker summited Mount
Everest May21, at 12-30 local time. First Everest summits
2005, but... Marko missing. Chronology.
May , 2005 Melungtse:
Yuri Koshelenko :yesterday
we climbed along the ridge, but after sitting night (at the
wall) all of us feel bad, I have pulnonary edema symphtoms.
There are not less than 15 pithches till the top, work for
three days - so we decided to descent...
May , 2005
Manaslu: Spanish climbers, Serguey
Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze reached yesterday the place of
Camp 2 and saw only a white plateau, tents were buried under
two meters of snow. Climbers tried to dig it out, but the
surface was covered with a crust of hard ice. All were down
to BC. No info about Japanese team. (www.mounteverest.net)
May , 2005 Melungtse:
Yuri Koshelenko : the trio
climbed the wall section of the route in five days. It
took them five days and 31 pitches (60 m each)
to tackle the very difficult wall - 6B+ (Russian grade). Every
afternoon, the weather has taken a turn for the worse. And
it smowing now - but we're in tent already - drinking cocoa.
The last night we sat on the small ice ledge (40 sm width)
All night around we tried to hold our position and fought
with the snow. Now we 're on the ridge - I hope that all key
parts we've already climbed. We dream about fine weather!
(info - www.bask-company.ru)
Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov called that the group reached
7100 m , then descended to the Base Camp. They're planning
summit push as soon as possible. THe snow conditions are very
May, 2005 Yasen
Djachenko: The history pages - Caucasus battle, August
Climbers from Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan
Army Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov summited Cho Oyu May,3.
May, 2005 Willie
Benegas May, 30 summited Everest first from the south, followed
by Mountain Madness team.
May, 2005 Eurocopter,
the European helicopter maker, has said it had landed a
helicopter on the top of Mount Everest in a world first.
Ecureuil/AStar AS350B3 helicopter landed May 14 at 8,850
meters atop the Himalayan peak, setting a new world record
for high-altitude landings and takeoffs. The aircraft, flown
by test pilot Didier Delsalle, took off from Lukla, and
remained atop the peak for more than two minutes, Eurocopter
said. A second successful landing and takeoff took place
later. Eurocopter said it had submitted the feat to the
International Federation of Aviation for approval as a world
record. The company is a division of the defence and aviation
giant European Aeronautic Defence and Space Co.
Valery Babanov and Rafael Slavinsky are going to
Denali, new route at South Face. They started on May, 21.
May, 2005 Annapurna
from South: expedition's aborted. " I'm sad and
also proud. We did with Piotr all the work..." - the
letter by Piotr Moravsky to Denis Urubko.
May, 2005 Christian
Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, and Patrick Wagnon summited
the previously unclimbed Chomo-Lonzo Central on May,
21 at 6-15 p.m..
Portugese climber Joao Garcia summited Lhotse May,
21 at 1.00 p.m. local time
Kuntner died from inner hemorrhages in Camp 2. - after the
avalanche came and ice boulders struck the climbers -. Annapurna
was Christian's ultimate 14, 8000er climb
May, 2005 Mario
Merelli, Mario Panzeri, Daniele Bernasconi, Ed Viesturs,
and Veikka Gustafsson have reached the summit of Annapurna
today at 2:30 pm Silvio Mondinelli did not make it to the
summit due to cold. Ed Viesturs has therefore become
the first American to summit all the 14 8000ers.
Shisha Pangma traverse: Ralf
Dujmovits, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Hirotaka Takeuchi
May,8 summited Shisha Pangma - in alpine style. THey climbed
via South side and headed down the North side.
they're going to Everest, Superqouloir!
May, 2005 Everest
(South, normal route): A huge avalanche struck Camp 1 early
yesterday morning. Big chunk of a serac fell from Everest's
West Shoulder and hit the glacier at the left side of the
tents in C1. Seven people suffered injuries.
First summit on Shisha Pangma this spring. Gerfried
Goschl 32 y.o. Austrian, member of Alpine Rescue Team Gesaeuse,
summited Shisha Pangma May 03, at 8:45 a.m. without supplementary
oxygen. Then he'll move to Everest for a no O2 attempt.
He's a member of Northland Professional expedition (www.mounteverest.net)
May, 2005 Annapurna
from South: expedition's aborted. " I'm sad and also proud.
We did with Piotr all the work..." - the letter by Piotr Moravsky
to Denis Urubko.
And we finished expedition. Unexpectedly. The rest of our team came
down and told that they are exhausted and fed up, and finished.
So we tried with Piotr Pustelnik. But he stopped also. He had no
power to go up (after 40 days of working). So I left alone. On 7300,
after almost all dificulties (which in the main part are V, A0,
very hard climbing on 7200). Before summit it was two days of work
(some fixing and setting C3) for 2 people a lot of work. I felt
strong enough to do it alone. I was full of power, I think even
stronger than on Shisha. But Piotr, as a leader told, that cannot
go alone, and he did not allow me to go. Now, when I look at it,
it was wise. I'm still not enough experienced. The weather now is
(it is storm and hail). So I'm sad and also proud. We did with Piotr
(the rest of expedition did almost nothing) all the work. Fixed
all the ropes. Piotr allowed me to lead all (2600 meters of ropes
on 2000 meters hard wall, amasing), so I
climbed like with wings. I just climb (as we told), and it gave
me a lot, a lot!
now I'm already mentally at home. This winter I stay at home. But
on spring I'd like to go somewhere. I'm so hungryQ. Sorry for that
kind of mail, but I'm already on basecamp and full with emotion.
Maybe one day we climb together. I hope so! Keep in touch!
Morawski, May, 23. Annapurna Base Camp
to the top
May , 2005 "7 Summits Club" Everest expedition. Messages
from Alexander Abramov (head of the expedition) from ABC:
21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers
Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir
Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit.
Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together
with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At
14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance
to the summit climbers if needed."
21, 17:00: "Today
at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko
Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good,
Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."
May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp
3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The
Sherpa can not go up."
May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of
the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from
the South Side."
22, 14:00: " At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went
up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude
Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked
all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well
as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about
20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen
Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 sherpas are now at the North
col, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."
22,, 17.00, message from Chineese expedition: Victor Mliner
& Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition
sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This
body looks as Marko. Six sherpas, which climbed together with the
members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right
May , 2005 A huge avalanche struck
Camp 1 on Everest's south side route early this morning. It began
when a big chunk of a serac fell from Everest's West Shoulder and
hit the glacier at the left side of the tents in C1. Seven people
snow and the massive wave destroyed most of the tents there (between
40 and 60, depending on the sources). After the avalanche, only
5 tents remained undamaged. The German team from Leipzig was on
its way down to BC from C2 and they found Camp 1 destroyed 30 minutes
after the avalanche.
"I will never forget that sight," reported Olaf Rieck.
"In the place where the colorful tents of Camp 1 stood, there
was just a flat surface of ice rubble and stones. Among the debris
we found three injured climbers. They have sought shelter inside
a half destroyed tent, waiting for help. Two Sherpas were already
helping them. Three other injured climbers cried at us for help.
One Sherpa and I tried to reach them very carefully, as the broken
terrain through the tents was not safe anymore."
had no first aid kit, so they ran back to BC. 45 minutes later they
met the rescue group. At that moment nobody knew for sure how many
people had spent the night in C1. Later they knew that one Sherpa's
status was critical. Three Americans, Canadian and a solo Polish
climber were injured. "Ironically the whole Iranian Women's
team were spared the destruction by camping slightly farther away
from the main camp. They left for camp two without even knowing
that the rest of camp was flattened under feet of snow." The
team members at base camp sent their crampons and harnesses up with
Sherpa team to replace those lost under snows above.