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September - December 2006 news

Piolet D'Or 2006 ceremony will take place in Grenoble on 26th of January. Nominees are:

9 December, 2006 Piolet D'Or 2006 nominees: Shingu Charpa North Ridge first ascent, Igor Chaplinsky, Orest Verbitsky and Andrew Rodiontsev (Ukraine)

5 December, 2006 Andrej Magajne (Ljubljana, Slovenia) FIrst climbs in Tien Shan.

10 November, 2006 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov were awarded by Asian Piolet D'Or in Seoul today.

8 November, 2006 Piolet D'Or Asia: Other nominees information: Two South Korean alpinists have climbed to the top of Thalay Sagar via the north ridge in the beginning of September - Gu Eun-su, 36, and Yu Sang-beom, 29; and Japanese climbers Katsutaka Yokoyama and Fumitaka Ichimura who opened a new route on Broken Tooths north face in Alaska.

7 November, 2006 Piolet D'Or Asia: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov ariived to Seoul (Korea). Their Manaslu first climb made last spring is the nominee as one of the best Asian climbs of a year. Festival organizers: "Men and Mountain" magazine together with Montagne magazine. Festival program: Nov, 8 - guests arriving, Nov, 9 - guests's climb to the top near Seoul, Nov, 10 - award ceremony.

21 October, 2006 The first Don Cho Oyu expedition. The team began their summit bid October, 18 at 4 a.m. from CAmp 2 (7100 m). The weather early morning was fine, but worsened soon - snow storm began. Dmitry POdlesny summited at 12-00 a.m., other members turned back. All descended to ABC at 9 p.m. and are OK. Today the team left BC on their way home.

12 October, 2006 Dhaulagiri. Too strong wind. Alexey Gorbatenkov and Valery Shamalo reached Camp 4 at 7400 on Saturday or Sunday, but could begin their sturm only on Tuesday. THey had to turn back in 100 m from the summit. The tent at 7400 flew away. All three Poles: Sylwia, Ryszard, and Grzegorz have returned to the base camp. Their expedition is over."Thats the end, I believe that we have no chance, our team is too exhausted. - Ryszard wrote. Two Russians are already on their way to Kathmandu.

8 October, 2006 Dhaulagiri. Alexey Gorbatenkov and Valery Shamalo launched a summit push on the mountain on Thirthday. Oct, 6 they were at 7300. Richard Pawlovsky wanted to touch them and climb todether. No results have been reported after that.

skala54 October , 2006 Three dys ago the biggest in Central Asia climbing stadium SKALA has been opened in Almaty. This's the project of Kazakhstan Mountaineering and climbing Federation. Congratulations to all centralasia climbers!

4 October , 2006 The first Don Cho Oyu expedition. As the exxpedition leader Alexander Pjatnicyn wrote, the team is in ABC ( 5700 m) fo the third day. Yeaterday was the BC puja. Today they're going to set C1mp1 at 6400.

2 October , 2006 The first Don Cho Oyu expedition arrived to the BC September, 30. Members: Alexander Pjatnitsyn, Alexander Moiseev, Igor Politiko, Mikhail Makovkin and Dmitry Podlesny.

2 October , 2006 Ural Cho Oyu Expedition 2006: all expedition members summited Cho Oyu September, 30 at 11-20 local time: Gennady Kirievsky (the leader), Alexey Bolotov, Alexander Ovchinnikov, Vladimir Lutsenko, Valery Rogozin, Dmitry Frolenko and Anton Lugovskih. They arrived to the BC September, 12.

25 September , 2006 3 km vertical Race (Elbrus Race story and photo gallery)

18 September , 2006 Elbrus Speed Climb. September, 14, 2006 RESULTS

Denis Urubko climbed Elbrus from the bottom till the West Top in 3 hours 55 min and became the Winner on the route Azau (2400) - Elbrus West Top (5642 m), Andrey Puchinin - the Winner on the route Garabashi (3708 m) - West top, Svetlana Sharipoba - the Winner among women. Congratulations!

World's news

22 December, 2006 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition. On 19 December, Wielicki and Robert Szymczak left Camp 1 with intention of setting up Camp 2 at c. 6100m. After 3.5 h of climbing, they reached the end of fixed ropes, where the previous team had left additional 200m of ropes. Unfortunately, the terrain above turned out to be very difficult and the distance to cover too long. They ran out of ropes and time. The team was forced to make a bivy at a very inconvenient spot.

11 December, 2006 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition reached the base camp. the highest peaks are concealed by a thick layer of clouds. In the base camp, there is about 40 cm of snow which is a certain surprise because nobody expected such a thick layer of snow.

Nanga Parbat winter 2006/07

10 December, 2006 Stephane Benoist and Frederic Gottardi climbed new ice route to the Kwangde North Face in Nepal, 6177 m. They named it "Normal Routes Have Nothing Extraordinary" (ED2 WI 5+) steep ice and mixed climbing, up to WI 5+. Tthree bivouacs, and three days to descend the opposite side and walk around the mountain to return to Namche Bazaar. 

9 December, 2006 Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett (Britaine), south east pillar of Kedarnath Dome

4 December, 2006 Adam Ondra, 13, has climbed Martin Krpan, 9a in Misja Pec! This was his first 9a and Adam also managed to onsight his 8th 8b this year. Adam is #3 in the senior world ranking and probably the best 13-year-old athlete in the world.

3 December, 2006 Chomolhari. In the end of October six Slovenian climbers (Marko Prezelj, Boris Lorencic, Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik and Samo Krmelj) came home from their successful Tibet expedition. They climbed Chomolhari (7350m), known as the bride of  Kanchengjunga, an impressing pyramid mountain on the Tibet-Bhutan border.

7 November, 2006 Winter Nanga Parbat Polish expedition: acclimatization's over - 6 climbers have summited Ama Dablam 5-6 November.

24 October, 2006 Meru peak (6310 m), Garhwal Himalaya (India): Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger did new 2000 metres long route on NW face of Mount Meru (6310m) in difficulty 7a, M5, 80 degrees ice , with the upper head (called Shark's fin) was in history the subject of many climbing attempts. Photo: www.czechclimbing.com Red line - Czeh route, yellow line - Valery Babanov's route

Meru peak, Indian Himalaya

17 October, 2006 Latok II (7108 m), Pakistan: Americans Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson August, 22 made an alpine-style ascent of 23,400-foot Latok II in Pakistan via southern buttress (in a six-day round trip) . This route was first climbed in two weeks in 1977 by an Italian expedition

Left to right: Latok II, I, III, and V, with the route on the southern buttress marked on Latok II. The Americans also climbed Latok V, on the far right. Photo: Steve Swenson.

Latok II

12 October, 2006 Annapurna: Silvio Mondinelli summited today at 11-30 local time together with Lakpa Sherpa. Marco Confortola and Marco Camandona summited Annapurna a few hours after Silvio. The wheather have improved since yesterday and wind was still strong enough when the climbers set off earlier this morning. The Italian team has spent two days in C3, waiting for the wind to drop in order to attempt the summit. This's Gnaro's 13th 8000-er (www.gnaromondinelli.it)

4 October , 2006 Yesterday Inaki Ochoa summited Shisha Pangma Main. Inaki climbed alone and told he thinks he opened a new route or repeated the Russian route in the final part of the ascent.

4 October , 2006 Everest, North Face, Spanish trio's attempt via Supercouloir: Oct, 2 Ferran has been suffering from physical problems, which eventually forced him down at 8000m. Juan Vallejo eventually turned back too, due to exhaustion and dehydration. Alberto has chosen to renounce instead of proceeding up alone.

2 October , 2006 The Spaniards Ferran Latorre, Alberto Inurrategi and Juan Vallejo yesterday began the summit bid at Everest North Face, via the Supercouloir (combination of Japanese/Hornbein couloirs) The team expect theyll need four days to reach the summit plus one day for the descent. (www.mounteverest.net) Photo: www.portal.bbk.es

Everest North Face, Supercouloir route, Fall 2006

29 September, 2006 Polish team led by Krzysztof Wielicki is going to Nanga Parbat Winter climb (the fifth attempt). The members are: Artur Hajzer, Dariusz Zalusk, Jan Szulc, Krzysztof Tarasewicz, Przemyslaw Lozinski. The Polish team will first travel to Nepal for a training climb on Ama Dablam. December 5, they will move to Pakistan to attempt Nanga in expedition style. (himountain.eu)