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"Russian
Extreme Project"
No Russian climbers have ever made ascents in this region (and in Greenland as well). And no one has ever done a base jump in this region! The objective of our expedition is the least explored peak of the region called Nalumasortoq (2054m). It has the vertical gain of 850 v 1000m. The face is absolutely vertical and sometimes overhanging. The first ascent of this face was done in 2000 by a French-Italian team. It was given the grade of (850 ì,6ñ+,À3+). Our team plans to put a new line in the western (more extend) part of the face of Nalumasortoq. And from the upper part of the face Valery Rozov will do a BASE jump in wing-suit . Members:
camera men: Dmitry Lifanov, Lev Dorfman Expedition chronicle. July 25, 2003 We hadn't days of good weather - Greenland showed us her North character. We summited July 22, at 3-00 pm. There were strong wind and fog at the top, so Valery could base jumpe only at 8-30 pm. He jumped in wing-suit. 900 m by 35 sec of free fall. Then the team began to descend by the ascent route. July 23 at 6-00 pm we were at the Base Camp. We're happy and healthy. July 23, 2003 Yesterday evening the team summited Nalumasortog (2054 m.) The clouds were below the top, but the wall is covered by them. If the weather became better, Rozov might base jump from the top yesterday. The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company. July 22, 2003 Yesterday the team worked all day, climbed two pitches more, then descent to the portaledges for a night. They had 60 m till the top. July 21, 2003 It's strong rain last two days. We sat in portaledges. It became better July 20 in the morning. We began to climb - decided to work constantly by two parties: Lastochkin - Rozov, Ahmedkhanov - Serjogin. Rocks were absolutely wet, but we went two pitches more, working till 1 am. Today, in 8-45 am weather's better. The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company. July19, 2003 Party Rozov - Ahmedhkanov set the second portaledge anf fixed two pithes more. Lastochkin - Serjogin have brought all load to the portaledges, where all team spent night. Weatger's unstable, rainy. July18, 2003 We rest today, before the beginning of the climb. We have repaired the portaledge by placing the ice-axe in the tube. Hope, this construction will hold us. The weather is unstable. It's rain the half of day, now's better. It's summer in Greenland. Snow is melting very quickly, and in about two weeks of such weather it'll Autumn. Americans returned back from 2/3 of the route because of bad weather - they climb free without portaledges. Let you stay in touch and wish good luck for us.
The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company. July17, 2003 Valery Rozov: Hello! The weather is better. Yesterday, after the rest day, we continued our work. THe party Rozov-Seregin worked at the wall. Fixed one and a half ropes. Akhmedkhanov and Lifanov brought the portaledge and water to the last station. Lastochkin and Dorfman brought food from the Base Camp. So, all work. Tomorrow day we plan to devote to making film about base jump. Rozov is going to jump from the highest point of fixed ropes, because camera-men won't climb to the top. All our ropes are fixed, so we'll begin the climb soon. Timmy O'Neil, famous for his speed El Capitan climbs, came here. It became more funny. Greenland - is real Mekka for free-climbing. The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company. July14, 2003 Valery Rozov:
July10, 2003
July8,
2003 "Hello everyone, We are still carrying equipment to ABC. We had
a funny accident. One of us - we won't mention his name - fell into the bog and
got stuck there up to his waist, we got him out, the equipment was not damaged,
the sinking guy is also ok, just soaked. In the photo you can see our wall. We
are planning to climb the central part of the wall to the right tower. The wall
looks like an open book. Our route lies on the right side. Tomorrow we are finally
moving to the base of the wall. By the evening we are planning to start working
on the route. We chose to leave our generator, so we won't send messages every
day. July7, 2003 Hello,we brought the equipment to the wall. The approach to the wall took us about 6 hours. The lane was mushy and overgrown with plants. From the distance the wall looked differently. It is dominating at the end of the valley as a giant fence. We looked through the variant of our ascent and chose the left side of the second tower. It hasn't been climbed before. With binoculars we could see a logic system of cracks, two big overhangs, the wall is at least vertical. We decided to move our BC 3-4 hours up the valley. (Translation: Anna Piunova)
July3, 2003 The team is in Narsarsuaq July2, 2003 The team left Moscow for the Greenland.
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