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"Russian Extreme Project"
Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

No Russian climbers have ever made ascents in this region (and in Greenland as well). And no one has ever done a base jump in this region!

The objective of our expedition is the least explored peak of the region called Nalumasortoq (2054m). It has the vertical gain of 850 v 1000m. The face is absolutely vertical and sometimes overhanging. The first ascent of this face was done in 2000 by a French-Italian team. It was given the grade of (850 ,6+,3+). Our team plans to put a new line in the western (more extend) part of the face of Nalumasortoq. And from the upper part of the face Valery Rozov will do a BASE jump in wing-suit .

Valery Rozov was a member of Great Sail Peak Expediion (Baffin Island, Canada) last Spring. He made a base jump from the top og Great Sail Peak.

Members:

  • Valery Rozov - leader
  • Arkady Seregin
  • Timur Ahmedkhanov
  • Alexander Lastochkin

camera men: Dmitry Lifanov, Lev Dorfman

Expedition chronicle.

July 25, 2003 We hadn't days of good weather - Greenland showed us her North character. We summited July 22, at 3-00 pm. There were strong wind and fog at the top, so Valery could base jumpe only at 8-30 pm. He jumped in wing-suit. 900 m by 35 sec of free fall. Then the team began to descend by the ascent route. July 23 at 6-00 pm we were at the Base Camp. We're happy and healthy.

July 23, 2003 Yesterday evening the team summited Nalumasortog (2054 m.) The clouds were below the top, but the wall is covered by them. If the weather became better, Rozov might base jump from the top yesterday.

The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company.

July 22, 2003 Yesterday the team worked all day, climbed two pitches more, then descent to the portaledges for a night. They had 60 m till the top.

July 21, 2003 It's strong rain last two days. We sat in portaledges. It became better July 20 in the morning. We began to climb - decided to work constantly by two parties: Lastochkin - Rozov, Ahmedkhanov - Serjogin. Rocks were absolutely wet, but we went two pitches more, working till 1 am. Today, in 8-45 am weather's better.

The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company.

July19, 2003 Party Rozov - Ahmedhkanov set the second portaledge anf fixed two pithes more. Lastochkin - Serjogin have brought all load to the portaledges, where all team spent night. Weatger's unstable, rainy.

July18, 2003 We rest today, before the beginning of the climb. We have repaired the portaledge by placing the ice-axe in the tube. Hope, this construction will hold us. The weather is unstable. It's rain the half of day, now's better. It's summer in Greenland. Snow is melting very quickly, and in about two weeks of such weather it'll Autumn. Americans returned back from 2/3 of the route because of bad weather - they climb free without portaledges.

Let you stay in touch and wish good luck for us.

July 17: We filmed today. All the team went up by the fixed ropes and made photo-video. At the end of fixed ropes we placed the portaledge, and Valery Rozov has jumped BASE from it. As I know, it's the first base jump in Greenland. We had fixed 7 ropes (total length 250 m). Free fall 6 sec.

When our team were on the portaledge, it has broken, and we appeared on our protections. The pause was... Then we have repaired the portalrdge. Those, who have seen the base jump for the first time, were shocked...

Tomorrow we'll prepare our equipment, and will begin the climb next day.

The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company.

July17, 2003 Valery Rozov:

Hello! The weather is better. Yesterday, after the rest day, we continued our work. THe party Rozov-Seregin worked at the wall. Fixed one and a half ropes. Akhmedkhanov and Lifanov brought the portaledge and water to the last station. Lastochkin and Dorfman brought food from the Base Camp. So, all work. Tomorrow day we plan to devote to making film about base jump. Rozov is going to jump from the highest point of fixed ropes, because camera-men won't climb to the top. All our ropes are fixed, so we'll begin the climb soon.

Timmy O'Neil, famous for his speed El Capitan climbs, came here. It became more funny. Greenland - is real Mekka for free-climbing.

The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company.

July14, 2003 Valery Rozov:

Hello! The weather is poor. It's rain and fog last two days. In spite of that, Seregin and Lastochkin worked two days on the route. We fixed already 6 pitches. Plan to prepare two more pitches and begin to climb. Othe members of the xpedition tried to climb Nalumasortoq from the backside, After 9 hours of the hard work they were blown away from ridge near the top by the strong wind with the moist snow. They could't find the place for the base jump, colded, tired and went back.

The message was transmitted with the satellite phone provided by BASK company.

July10, 2003

"Hello everyone, Seregin, Lastochkin and Ahmedhanov started working on the wall. They passed the lower band of rocks and climbed half a pitch. The difficulty is higher then average, approximately A3+, lots of flakes and loose rock, overhangs. Rozov, Dorfman, Lifanov went around the wall in search of easy decent route. But failed to find it. From behind it looks almost the same. The only variant of descent is the ascent route. It's not yet clear what to do with Dmitry and Lev. The weather is getting worse and colder, misty. Everyone is in good health. " (Translation: Anna Piunova)

July8, 2003 "Hello everyone, We are still carrying equipment to ABC. We had a funny accident. One of us - we won't mention his name - fell into the bog and got stuck there up to his waist, we got him out, the equipment was not damaged, the sinking guy is also ok, just soaked. In the photo you can see our wall. We are planning to climb the central part of the wall to the right tower. The wall looks like an open book. Our route lies on the right side. Tomorrow we are finally moving to the base of the wall. By the evening we are planning to start working on the route. We chose to leave our generator, so we won't send messages every day.
We've just came after fishing. For dinner we have a 2-kilo fish and 2 kg of sea-food. The weather is good. You know about mosquitoes already. Bye, Till then. "(Translation: Anna PIunova)

July7, 2003 Hello,we brought the equipment to the wall. The approach to the wall took us about 6 hours. The lane was mushy and overgrown with plants. From the distance the wall looked differently. It is dominating at the end of the valley as a giant fence. We looked through the variant of our ascent and chose the left side of the second tower. It hasn't been climbed before. With binoculars we could see a logic system of cracks, two big overhangs, the wall is at least vertical. We decided to move our BC 3-4 hours up the valley. (Translation: Anna Piunova)

Tomorrow the first party of two will spend a night at the wall, and the day after tomorrow they will start working on the route. It got a bit colder today, but in general the weather is favorable. The mosquitoes are terrible. Up the valley there are many other nice objects for climbing. The region resembles both Patagonia and Karavshin. Arkady went fishing, Lastochkin is tormenting the guitar, the others are tormenting the phone and computer trying to send this message. We celebrated Lev's son's birthday. There is another wall nearby, in the background of the picture, called ULUMOSORTOG. Everything is OK, bye! (Translation: Anna Piunova)

July3, 2003 The team is in Narsarsuaq

July2, 2003 The team left Moscow for the Greenland.

 

 

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