ISLAND EXPEDITION - GREAT SAIL PEAK
"Big Walls - Russian Routes" project
May, 2002 the team is planning to make the first ascent of the Wall
of Great Sail Peak, located in Baffin Island
Massif in Polar Canada.
dates of the ascent are determined by the climate conditions of
Baffin Island. The Island, whoes territory is the third in the World,
located behind the Polar Bound. You can reach the North-East coast
of the Island , where the one of the most difficult mountain massif
lies, only by the snow-tractor or by the boat (from the middle of
June till the middle of September period)
expedition promises be very interesting due to participation of
Valery Rozov - the mountaineer in the past, and the famous expert
in skysurfing now, the leader of the "Russian Extrem Project"
He is planning the jump from the Wall of the Great Sail with the
late opening of the parachute.
of the project:
Odintsov - the leader of the project
Bakin - the doctor
Samoilenko - camera-man
start of the expedition - 26 April, 2002
April, 2002 ITAR-TASS, Saint Petersburg
June V. Rozov pictures from Great Sail Peak:
June Alexander Kljonov called to Yekaterinburg from Toronto:
we arrived Toronto by two groups. The best impression - THE REAL
GREEN GRASS! You can't imagine what's this! We'll fly to Moscow
on Sunday, there the press conference will take place, hope to arrive
Yekaterinburg on Friday
the route: Bolts are used only for reinforcing the portaledge and
one time for pendulum. we couldn't work in two watches, but Polar
day permited us to work till 3 a.m. All members exept Rozov, worked
as forwardes on the route.
June we selebrate 50th birthday of doctor Bakin!
for all! Thanks fot our sponsors and all who support us during the
team has climbed Great Sail Peak! (in the night 26-27 May) 1500m
of absolutely new route were climbed. The ascension lasted about
two weeks. WE stayed at the top more than twenty-four hours waiting
the good enough weather.
May Valery Rozov in the "Wing suit" base jumped from the
highest point of the Wall.
All are OK, 29 May the team moved
down th the BC
May Ivan Samoilenko from BC:
May. Yesterday we finished the preparation period of the ascension.
The team started. All other expedition members took off the ABC
camp and brought the load - about 140 Kg - to the BC.
team have climbed 7 pitches till the ledge, where the portaledges
are located, plus they prepared six pitches on the Wall above this
place. The team climbs three pitches every day - they work from1
p.m. and 11 p.m. - there are no night!
are healthy. Odintsov, according the bad tradition, caught the stone
by his knee, but he's OK now. We rest in the BC today. The fried
eggs, with red fish, coffee with rum and chokolate for breakfast.
We have now the closer contact with the environment - Volodja went
fishing for the night, he fished 40 icapu (kunga on Russian)
had a day of exultation - now we eat the salt fish, fried
fish and boiled fish. Yesterday was the exultation day for
the couple of polar foxes.- they ate the fishe's bowels, and
Volodja recorded the process by video. Camera man Dmitry Lifanov
is upset - he can't make a picture of Polar bears. We tell
him it's better to do it in the Zoo.
who lives in BC have the inner fear of Polar bear visit, in
spite of we are far from their usual inhabitance places -
we saw their scents near the BC. We got used cold. Very soon
, through about 10 days, we'll return to civilization...Girls,
we'll be back soon! Samiolenko won the competition "the
best erotic dream" yesterday.
gallery from he Baffin Island - on AlpClub site
May Sersey Porodnov - the guest from the Baffin Island
Porodnov from Yekaterinburg is the sponsor of the party Kljonov
- Davy. Sergey reached the Baffin Island together with the
team, moved through ice till the BC. He left Baffin 10 May
and arrived to Moscow 16 May, where he was met by BASK company.
He granted the interview about his impressons about Baffin's
life and gave the letter by Valery Rozov (published on this
site, but only on Russian)
May Valery Rozov called:
Kljonov - Davy works at the Wall now. They work 14 hours per
day. The team have already climbed 4 pitches. They hope to
reach the ledge tomorrow, the place, where all members will
bring loads. Yesterday, 14 May, Valery Rozov, Lev Dorfman
and Dmitry Lifanov ascended again the nearest Peak (Pobedy
Peak) where Valery base jumped from again.
cold, frost Winter, Polar day - there are wonderful landscapes
around - all this create the impression of unreality of the
caught a lot of fish in fjord, cooked the great fish-soup.
And now we are sitting here, eating the soup and thinking
about the warm home, relatives and friends. Greetings from
the whole team!
May Valery Rozov and Mikhail Davy:
Rozov, Lev Dorfman and Dmitry Lifanov ascended the unclimbed Peak,
which is near the Great Sail Peak - it was the third attempt! Two
previous failed because of bad weather. The
top was named Pobedy (Victory)Peak (devoted to the Victory
Day, 9 May - the Victory in the Second World War). The goal of the
ascension - the parachute jump
took 8 hours for the ascension, deep snow made it very hard. They
used ski-tours. It happened: the first base
jump from the first climbed Peak! It was like the discovery
- we are happy! The top is 1480 m, BC is on 50m from the sea level,
high difference - 800m of the overhang wall, fallen time - 40 sec.
It was sunny, -10C. There are many walls like that in this region,
but it's difficult to reach them because of cold and huge distances.
the party Odintsov- Ruchkin continue the preparation of the route
on Great Sail Peak. The fresh fallen snow made the way from ABC
to the Wall very hard - it took them 3,5 hours to move up 500m high
difference, instead of 1 hour, which it took for Kljonov and Davy
in the first time. They climbed one more pitch. They'll continue
the preparation of the route tomorrow, than the party Kjonov and
Davy will change them. May they will use the portaledge for the
night to economize the time and forces needed for the way ABC -Wall.
weather always changes: sunny - snow fall - but the Spring doesn't
come. It's warm only in the dinning tent in BC All are brave, healthy,
send greetings to relatives, beloveds and all who waiting our expedition
May Ivan Samoilenko:
North wind blows the third day. It's cold. The pressure falls. The
party Kljonov - Davy fixed the first rope on the route yesterday.They
returned to the BC today. Valery Rozov with friends went to reconnaissance
to the top plateau and discovered lots of deep snow and Polar spaciousness
are no nights, but temperature decreases to ten grades. It's better
to spend this time in the tent in the warm sleepingbag. When the
Spring, promised by Inuites, comes? We are sitting in the Inuit's
tent, where walls were thicken by wadding - and waiting. Playing
preference and nardy, reading. All are healthy. Doc gives us vitamin
tablets and dilutes spirit.
MAY Alexander Odintsov called:
set the BC near the South-East part of the lake by the Great Sail
Peak. We see the profile of the Wall - it's great impression! Yesterday,
6 May, 8 persons went to the bottom of the Wall and brought the
equipment fot the ascension. It takes us 2,5 hours to reach the
Wall. Today we make the sledge from our ski, and will continue to
bring things to the bottom of the Wall.
Spring isn't in hurry here, it's snow every day, but today is warmer,
-15C The water for cooking and drinking we prepare from the ice.
We can't imagine, that there can be streams, where we can wash.
of us see very bright dreams, it's the imagine of unreality of the
current moment. We miss our relatives and beloveds. Russia seems
the Holy Land.
MAY Alexander Odintsov from the Baffin Island: the team is in
some hours walking from the BC. Snow-tractors couldn't reach BC,
so we have to work some days to bring our equipment to the BC. Our
camp is in the very picturesque place. There are bear's scents in
our camp. We are OK, all are healthy.Hope to begin the preparation
of the route 6-7 May. The weather is good, -10C, sun shines.
we love you.
MAY Valery Rozov called: We are OK in Klaid River. -10-15C,
strong wind. We took 6 snowtractors with the sledges with 6 Inuites.
They will stay the couple of days in BC, than will go back. Tomorrow
MAY Mikhail Davy called: We are in Klaid River ( the last living
point on the continent) It's strong frost ang wind. Tomorrow we'll
start to the BC. We can reach it through 1 day, if all will be OK.
Here is the good hotels, Internet and telephone in any village -
you can call to any point in the World, and very cheap - 19c/min.
Two Inuites are going together with our team
APRIL Alexander Kljonov from Toronto: All days are full of preparation
to the expedition. I have an impression, that there are only Russians
in Canada - there is the Russian language everywhere around us,
and the titles in the shops are on Russian too... It's cold enough,
we are thinking with a terror what will be at the Pole. Tomorrow
we'll be here, than will go to Ottava, than will fly to Klaid River
(29 April), than - will go by the sledge.
APRIL The team has left Moscow and is flying to Toronto
APRIL The press conference of the members of the unique project
"BIG WALLS - RUSSIAN ROUTES" took place in Moscow. Lev
Dorfman (camera-man) and Dmitry Lifanov (photo correspondent) are
going to Canada with the team
APRIL The Canadian Ambassy opened
visas to the members of the project, so they will start in time
to the Baffin Island - 26 April, 2002
CONFERENCE OF THE EXPEDITION
by Elena Laletina
took place 19 APRIL, 2002 at the press center
ITAR TASS in Saint Petersburg.
Alexander Odintsov, the
head of the project, Mikhail Bakin, the doctor of the expedition
and Ivan Samoilenko, the high-altitude camera man.
Odintsov: Why have we chosen this Wall? First, we failed during
two years on Latok III in Pakistan. As a result, we had broken 10
ribs, 2 hands, 2 legs and lost Igor Barikhin there. So, Pakistan
doesn't attract us this year. We deside to miss this point of our
program and realize it later, besides the political situation in
Pakistan is very hard now.
the Baffin Island (Stewart Walley) is Terra Incognita for Europeans,
no one was in this geographycal point. Some years ago American Alex
Low did the first ascent the Wall on the Baffin Island. We met Alex
Low in 1999, during Trango Tower expedition, and became friends.
A month later Alex died in avalanche during the ascent to Shisha
Pangma, and his body hadn't been found. In memory of Alex Low we
desided to ascent the Wall, where he was the first, via the parallel
route (about 50-100m from the Alex's way)
length of the Wall - about 1500m, it is almost perpendicular, the
average steep 80-83°
team - 5 persons: Odintsov, Kljonov, Davy, Ruchkin, Rozov. Our doctor
- Mikhail Bakin, Ivan Samoilenko - camera-man. We are going to create
the film about our expedition.
take the satellite telephone with us, thanks to general sponsor
"BASK" ( the Russian Sport equipment company) BASK is
our info sponsor too and provides our information to Media.
have the tickets to Toronto for 26 April, but Canada Ambassy doesn't
open our visas yet, we are waiting them during 18 days.
you like to say some details about the project?
are two kinds of the alpinism - high-altitude and technical.
hundreds of people , or may be thouthands now, ascent via the normal
routes the highest Mounts, but technical climbers prefer to ascent
Mounts via the most difficult routes.The ascent to Big Wall - is
the step to the eternity for the climber. All routes on such Walls
named after the first climbers or the country where they are from.
There were no Russian routes untill 1992. We began from our mountains
(4810 on Pamir Alay in 1995, Aksu on Pamir Alay in 1996), than ascended
Troll Wall in Norway in 1997 - two exclusive Russian routes,than
Russian route appeared at the Bhagirathi - the cult Wall for Hinduists,
because the Hang River begins from the bottom of the Wall. Than
Trango Tower - this is the cult Wall for the climbers. First ascension
was done by Norwegian climbers, but two of them died during the
descent. So, we realized 5 ascents. The sixth, Latok III, was failed.
The Mount didn't resign neither in 2000, nor in 2001.
Tell, please, about the region of Baffin Island.
The region is very interesting. It hasn't been seached yet, practically.
It is the motherland for the Polar Bears. We are the food for them
in their mind, so we deside to invite two Eskimo with the guns to
can reach the Wall by the coast ice, usually by the snow-tractor
or by the dogs. It begins the Polar Day about 5-10 May, the sun
doesn't set, the ice begins to melt. So if we will be late on the
Wall or the expedition's dates will be changed because of the delay
with the visas, we may have to stay at the Baffin Island till Autumn,
or go through the continental part of the Island, which is the very
difficult region. One American was obliged to do this, he was named
"Robinzon" after that.