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April 2005 news

27 April, 2005 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov called today at 15-50 p.m.: we have just reached Base Camp, are setting tents. There're Japanese, Spanish and German expeditions - they set Camp 1 and are working to Camp 2. The weather's fine in the morning, bad - later. Maoists take money from each expedition - 100 rupees per person/per day and 1000 rup. from trekkingers per person for the whole trek. They give the document when take money. Yesterday we talked by sat phone with Zhumayev and Pivtsov in Cho Oyu BC - they rest now, and plan summit bid next push.

22 April, 2005 SEMINAR "Route setting on natural rock for sport climbing" 8.06.05 - 19.06.05. Alexander Klenov.

22 April, 2005 Siberia Cho Oyu expedition, Gleb Sokolov: we are ready to leave for Tibet tomorrow. Here's quite in Kathmandu, a lot of tourists. Our team members: Gleb Sokolov (Master of Sports), Yuri Uteshev (Candidate of Master of Sports), Serguey Naumenko (doctor, he's climbed Korzhenevskaya, Communism, Khan Tengri peaks, Aconkagua, etc.), Alexander Gaponov, Alexander Proskurin (Candidate of Master of Sports).

21 April, 2005 Melungtse: Yuri Koshelenko called from Tibet. Organization period of the expedition was very hard. Now guys have to overcome Furshalan pass. Today negotiations with yakmen are coming - it's difficult because team's guides don't understand local language - as we wrote below. (info -

Yuri Koshelenko Nickolay Totmjanin

21 April, 2005 Kazakhstan climbers (Central Sport Club of Army) Maxut Zhymayev and Vassily Pivtsov reached Middle Camp on Cho Oyu yesterday. Today they're going to ABC. Some days ago, when guys arrived to Delhi, the airlines company has lost all their climbing equipment. Then, in Kathmandu, they tried to find it with the help of Asian Trekking company, but - no good result. So they gathered needed equipment - thanks to our guys from other expeditions - in Kathmandu (also Gia Tortladze helped them with money). In spite of that hard situation, guys began their project, left fot Tibet to Cho Oyu BC.

18 April, 2005 Melungtse, Yuri Koshelenko: "We are in Nialam. The Spring's late and slopes are snow- covered. Our liason officer can't speek English , and the special guide-translator Pasang too. It seems we have to speek with yakmen by finger signs "

18 April, 2005 Siberia Cho Oyu expedition (Gleb Sokolov, Yuri Uteshev +3) started to Nepal April, 17.

18 April, 2005 Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze join Spanish expedition to Manaslu. Now they're in Kathmandu ready to start in trekking to the base camp.

Expedition members: 1.Juan Corro Tormo (Spain) - leader
2.Javier Garcia Garcia (Spain)
3.Carlos Pardo Fonfria (Spain)
4.Fernando R.Marfull (Spain)
5.Lgnaco O. Menedeg (Spain)
6.Gia Tortladze (Georgia)
7.Sergey Bogomolov (Russia)

15 April, 2005 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led now by Gary Kikst and Nickolay Cherny, arrived to the BC. Serguey Kaimachnikov is flying to Moscow. Alexander Abramov going to Tibet together with Koshelenko and Totmjanin.

15 April, 2005 Kyrgyzstan. Harvard Mountaineering Club Borkoldoy Expedition 2005

14 April, 2005 Some changes in Himalaya plans this season: Yuri Ermachek told thad the Polish expedition where he was going to take part, was postponed to the next year because of the difficult political situation in Nepal. Maxut Zhumayev started to Kathmandu (and then to Cho Oyu togather with Vassiliy Pivtsov (both from Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army) April, 13. They may join the Siberia Cho Oyu Expedition which'll start April, 17. Yuri Koshelenko goes to Melungtse not with Iljas Tukhvatullin, as planned, but with Nickolay Totmjanin and Karlos Buhler. Iljas Tukhvatullin had to refuse from this project - he had already undergone two surgeries on the eye

1 April, 2005 Climber from Central Sport club of Kazakhstan Army Maxut Zhumayev is leaving for Kathmandu April, 6 - to climb Cho Oyu via classic route. Max have already climbed Shisha Pangma Central (2000), both Gasherbrums (2001), Kangchenjunga and Shisha Main (2002), Nanga Parbat and Broud Peak (2003) and Makalu (Paragot ridge) in 2004.

World's news

25 April, 2005 Cho Oyu: Vekka Gustavson summited April, 23 at 11 a.m. Ed Viesturs turned back to help Jimmy to descent - he has cerebral edema symptoms

21 April, 2005 The European Youth Climbing Days 2005 and the Rock Junior return to Arco (Trentino, Italy) from 18-19 June

18 April, 2005 Congratulations to Martin Minarik, who summited solo Cho Oyu Apr.16 at 3 p.m. (

15 April, 2005 Three days after the death of two climbers during the descent from Pumori summit (March, 25) two climbers from Korean Busan Pumori Expedition died there on the descent too - Sang Kyun Joung, (50), and Do Young Kim, (31) They summited March, 29 on 3 p.m. The bodies were recovered from the mountain and returned to their homeland. (

14 April, 2005 Annapurna, Silvio Mondinelli: after 4 days of strong storm, whem the climbers were have to play cards and read books in BC, and the wind wasso strong that they couldn't to use generator, there's a good weather now. But the weather window is only 3-4 days, and climbers have to use it as they can - to set Camp 3 and fixed ropes on the route. (message from Apr., 12)

21 April, 2005 The European Youth Climbing Days 2005 and the fourth edition of the Rock Junior return to Arco (Trentino, Italy) from 18-19 June. Organized by the Rock Master Association and approved by the FASI (Italian Sports Climbing Federation), this international event is dedicated to the young generation of climbers aged between 5 and 14
who, together with their families, wish to discover the climbing game in complete safety. The festival will once again be held at the Climbing Stadium in Arco, the very same structure used every year for the Rock Master, the "oldest" and most important climbing competition in the world.

The two day event is open to all, newcomers and experts alike, and is comprised of exciting games (Play and climb) to discover climbing and instructional courses (Climbing Campus) to explore and learn about the world of the rocks and the surrounding nature. Furthermore, children and their parents will be able to take part in the playful Kid's Rock and Family Rock competitions, while the best young European athletes will compete in the sports climbing Under 14 Cup.

Maximum safety is guaranteed by the Mountain Guides, the Mountain Rescue services (SAT and Guardia di Finanza), the Moena Police Alpine Training Force (Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia di Stato di

15 April, 2005 Early morning Serguey was transported to the airport. The flight was postponed to 3 hours, so guys have to spend the night in Dokha. Russian Council in Kathmandu Vladimir Popov helped us very much. And we are very pleased to Katar Airlines for their help. Tomorrow I'll go to Tibet to join the expedition. Yuri Koshelenko and Nickolay Totmjanin decided to go with me. They said: "No one bomb fall into the same hole.". THE ATTEMPT NUMBER 2!!!!!

  • 14 April. Our famous rescuer Max Onipchenko arrived to Kathmandu to transport Serguey to Moscow. Serguey is well, only hemoglobine is low. Other friends are preparing all in Moscow. Russian Ambassador Valery Nazarov came to hospital to see Serguey. The expedition reached BC at 5100 m. All are OK. Tomorrow yaks'll go to IBC and April, 17 - to ABC (6400).
  • 13 April. All are selebrateing Nepel New Year in Kathmandu - 2062. Yuri Koshelenko, Nickolay Totmjanin, Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze took part in that holiday till 3 a.m. last night.

Alexander Abramov, Alpindustria Adventure Team.

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