Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov called
today at 15-50 p.m.: we have just reached Base Camp, are setting
tents. There're Japanese, Spanish and German expeditions -
they set Camp 1 and are working to Camp 2. The weather's fine
in the morning, bad - later. Maoists take money from each
expedition - 100 rupees per person/per day and 1000 rup. from
trekkingers per person for the whole trek. They give the document
when take money. Yesterday we talked by sat phone with Zhumayev
and Pivtsov in Cho Oyu BC - they rest now, and plan summit
bid next push.
April, 2005 SEMINAR
"Route setting on natural rock for sport climbing"
8.06.05 - 19.06.05. Alexander Klenov.
Siberia Cho Oyu expedition, Gleb
Sokolov: we are ready to leave for Tibet tomorrow. Here's
quite in Kathmandu, a lot of tourists. Our team members: Gleb
Sokolov (Master of Sports), Yuri Uteshev (Candidate of Master
of Sports), Serguey Naumenko (doctor, he's climbed Korzhenevskaya,
Communism, Khan Tengri peaks, Aconkagua, etc.), Alexander
Gaponov, Alexander Proskurin (Candidate of Master of Sports).
April, 2005 Melungtse:
Yuri Koshelenko called from
Tibet. Organization period of the expedition was very hard.
Now guys have to overcome Furshalan pass.
Today negotiations with yakmen are coming - it's difficult
because team's guides don't understand local language - as
we wrote below. (info - www.bask-company.ru)
Kazakhstan climbers (Central Sport Club
of Army) Maxut Zhymayev
and Vassily Pivtsov
reached Middle Camp on Cho Oyu yesterday. Today they're
going to ABC. Some days ago, when guys arrived to Delhi, the
airlines company has lost all their climbing equipment. Then,
in Kathmandu, they tried to find it with the help of Asian
Trekking company, but - no good result. So they gathered needed
equipment - thanks to our guys from other expeditions - in
Kathmandu (also Gia Tortladze helped them with money). In
spite of that hard situation, guys began their project, left
fot Tibet to Cho Oyu BC.
Melungtse, Yuri Koshelenko: "We are in Nialam.
The Spring's late and slopes are snow- covered. Our liason
officer can't speek English , and the special guide-translator
Pasang too. It seems we have to speek with yakmen by finger
April, 2005 Siberia
Cho Oyu expedition (Gleb Sokolov, Yuri Uteshev +3) started
to Nepal April, 17.
Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze join Spanish expedition
to Manaslu. Now they're in Kathmandu ready to start in trekking
to the base camp.
members: 1.Juan Corro Tormo (Spain) - leader
2.Javier Garcia Garcia (Spain)
3.Carlos Pardo Fonfria (Spain)
4.Fernando R.Marfull (Spain)
5.Lgnaco O. Menedeg (Spain)
6.Gia Tortladze (Georgia)
7.Sergey Bogomolov (Russia)
April, 2005 7
Everest expedition led now by Gary Kikst and Nickolay Cherny,
arrived to the BC. Serguey Kaimachnikov is flying to Moscow.
Alexander Abramov going to Tibet together with Koshelenko
April, 2005 Kyrgyzstan.
Harvard Mountaineering Club Borkoldoy Expedition 2005
Some changes in Himalaya plans this season: Yuri
Ermachek told thad the Polish expedition where he was
going to take part, was postponed to the next year because
of the difficult political situation in Nepal. Maxut Zhumayev
started to Kathmandu (and then to Cho Oyu togather with Vassiliy
Pivtsov (both from Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army)
April, 13. They may join the Siberia Cho Oyu Expedition
which'll start April, 17. Yuri Koshelenko goes to Melungtse
not with Iljas Tukhvatullin, as planned, but with Nickolay
Totmjanin and Karlos Buhler. Iljas Tukhvatullin had to
refuse from this project - he had already undergone two surgeries
on the eye
Climber from Central Sport club of Kazakhstan Army Maxut
Zhumayev is leaving for Kathmandu April, 6 - to climb
Cho Oyu via classic route. Max have already
climbed Shisha Pangma Central (2000), both Gasherbrums (2001),
Kangchenjunga and Shisha Main (2002), Nanga Parbat and Broud
Peak (2003) and Makalu (Paragot ridge) in 2004.
Cho Oyu: Vekka Gustavson summited April, 23 at 11
a.m. Ed Viesturs turned back to help Jimmy to descent -
he has cerebral edema symptoms
The European Youth Climbing Days 2005 and the Rock
Junior return to Arco (Trentino, Italy) from 18-19 June
Congratulations to Martin Minarik, who summited solo
Cho Oyu Apr.16 at 3 p.m. (www.everestnews.com)
Three days after the death of two
climbers during the descent from Pumori summit (March,
25) two climbers from Korean Busan Pumori Expedition died
there on the descent too - Sang Kyun Joung, (50), and Do
Young Kim, (31) They summited March, 29 on 3 p.m. The bodies
were recovered from the mountain and returned to their homeland.
April, 2005 Annapurna,
Silvio Mondinelli: after 4 days of strong storm, whem
the climbers were have to play cards and read books in BC,
and the wind wasso strong that they couldn't to use generator,
there's a good weather now. But the weather window is only
3-4 days, and climbers have to use it as they can - to set
Camp 3 and fixed ropes on the route. (message from Apr.,