Mountaineering, climbing. June 2005 news

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June 2005 news

30 June, 2005 Pakistan news: K2 reconnaissance team is in K2 classic base camp. Denis Urubko was in Askole yesterday. Ruchkin and Odintsov are back in Islamabad. We're not know yet if they enjoy Masherbrum Face for their future climb...

28 June, 2005 "Memory is the life reached shining tops"

26 June, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: It was the same heat - like a mountain desert... No cloud at the sky. Now we are in Paju, 3400 m.

25 June, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: There is extremely heat in Pakistan - here at 3000 m the temperature is 45 C. Too much snow as predicted and it melts too fast. It couldn't came through some places after the midday - small streams became the strong mountain rivers

24 June, 2005 Broad Peak new route expedition: Denis Urubko called: all the team is Islamabad. We'll have the brifing in Tourism Ministry tomorrow and leave for Skardu the day after.

23 June, 2005 Pakistan: K2 West Face group is in Askole

22 June, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov arrived Islamabad. Italian members have some visa problems and will be later. (Denis's SMS)

21 June, 2005 Pakistan: Odintsov/Ruchkin for Masherbrum reconnaissance left Skardu today morning and are going to Askole. K2 West Face team arrived yesterday to Skardu, and they will start further tomorrow.

20 June, 2005

Broad Peak new route expedition: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov left Almaty yesterday and arrived Pakistan. Press conference photo

16 June, 2005 Short Story about Moldovan Mountaineering

16 June, 2005

The press-conference devoted the project "Broad peak South Face new route" took place in Almaty today. Members of the project are: Roberto Piantoni (leader), Mario Mereli, Domenico Belingheri, Stefano Magri, Marco Astori, and Matteo Piantoni (Italy). Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Kazakhstan) .

15 June, 2005 Four members of the K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition fly today to Islamabad from Moscow: Victor Kozlov, Vassily Yelagin, Piotr Kuznetsov and Pavel Shabaln.

8 June, 2005 Alexander Odintsov and Alexander Ruchkin left Moscow for Pakistan - for the reconnaissamce of the Masherbrum North Face route.

2 June, 2005 "7 Summits Club" Everest expedition: Today at 8:45 local time Dmitry Moskalev and Mingma Norbu Sherpa stayed at Everest top. Harry Kikstra (Holland) and American Jonh Christiana and Sherpas Rendgi and Ang Larcha were about hour from the summit.

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30 June, 2005 Tomaz Humar: "The love from the second view" - attempt two. The Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat is his goal. The expeditionwill start to Pakistan July, 2 (www.humar.com)

29 June, 2005 Radek Jaros summited Nanga Parbat (Kinshoffer route) yesterday. Congratulations!

27 June, 2005 Simone Moro: Batura II news (June, 24-26 )

23 June, 2005 Simone Moro: Batura II news - Base camp

22 June, 2005 Simone Moro: Batura II news - Italian base camp. Polo at 3332 m

21 June, 2005 Arco: European Youth climbing Festival

21 June, 2005 Batura II news

17 June, 2005 Batura II: Simone Moro arrived to Islamabad

14 June, 2005 Valery Babanov and Rafael Slavinsky climbed new route on Denali South Face. (7-8 June) - during 14 hours. Route length - 1600 m (they didn't reach the top because of bad visibility). The route has been named "Infinity Direct".

7 June, 2005 Alan Hinkes has successfully reached Kangchenjunga summit on May, 30 at 7pm, and became the first Briton to Summit the world's 14, 8000m peaks.

6 June, 2005 Valery Babanov and Rafael Slavinsky summited Denali June, 2 at 2 a.m. Temperature reached -45C. after the short rest in the Base Camp they'll climb Denali South Face, new route. Face length is about 3000 m.

2 June, 2005 Himalaya double header: Gerfried Goschl succeeded yesterday afternoon at 5.50 p.m. local time to reach the summited Everest alone and without oxygen June,1 at 5-50 p.m. He already had climbed Shisha Pangma 8027m on May 3.

24 May, 2005 Annapurna from South: expedition's aborted. " I'm sad and also proud. We did with Piotr all the work..." - the letter by Piotr Moravsky to Denis Urubko.

Hi Denis!
And we finished expedition. Unexpectedly. The rest of our team came down and told that they are exhausted and fed up, and finished. So we tried with Piotr Pustelnik. But he stopped also. He had no power to go up (after 40 days of working). So I left alone. On 7300, after almost all dificulties (which in the main part are V, A0, very hard climbing on 7200). Before summit it was two days of work (some fixing and setting C3) for 2 people a lot of work. I felt strong enough to do it alone. I was full of power, I think even stronger than on Shisha. But Piotr, as a leader told, that cannot go alone, and he did not allow me to go. Now, when I look at it, it was wise. I'm still not enough experienced. The weather now is bad
(it is storm and hail). So I'm sad and also proud. We did with Piotr (the rest of expedition did almost nothing) all the work. Fixed all the ropes. Piotr allowed me to lead all (2600 meters of ropes on 2000 meters hard wall, amasing), so I
climbed like with wings. I just climb (as we told), and it gave me a lot, a lot!

And now I'm already mentally at home. This winter I stay at home. But on spring I'd like to go somewhere. I'm so hungryQ. Sorry for that kind of mail, but I'm already on basecamp and full with emotion. Maybe one day we climb together. I hope so! Keep in touch!

Piotr Morawski, May, 23. Annapurna Base Camp

23 May , 2005 "7 Summits Club" Everest expedition. Messages from Alexander Abramov (head of the expedition) from ABC:

May, 21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed."

May 21, 17:00: "Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."

May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The Sherpa can not go up."

May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from the South Side."

May 22, 14:00: " At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 sherpas are now at the North col, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."

May 22,, 17.00, message from Chineese expedition: Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand. (www.mounteverest.net)

5 May , 2005 A huge avalanche struck Camp 1 on Everest's south side route early this morning. It began when a big chunk of a serac fell from Everest's West Shoulder and hit the glacier at the left side of the tents in C1. Seven people suffered injuries.

The snow and the massive wave destroyed most of the tents there (between 40 and 60, depending on the sources). After the avalanche, only 5 tents remained undamaged. The German team from Leipzig was on its way down to BC from C2 and they found Camp 1 destroyed 30 minutes after the avalanche.
"I will never forget that sight," reported Olaf Rieck. "In the place where the colorful tents of Camp 1 stood, there was just a flat surface of ice rubble and stones. Among the debris we found three injured climbers. They have sought shelter inside a half destroyed tent, waiting for help. Two Sherpas were already helping them. Three other injured climbers cried at us for help. One Sherpa and I tried to reach them very carefully, as the broken terrain through the tents was not safe anymore."

Guys had no first aid kit, so they ran back to BC. 45 minutes later they met the rescue group. At that moment nobody knew for sure how many people had spent the night in C1. Later they knew that one Sherpa's status was critical. Three Americans, Canadian and a solo Polish climber were injured. "Ironically the whole Iranian Women's team were spared the destruction by camping slightly farther away from the main camp. They left for camp two without even knowing that the rest of camp was flattened under feet of snow." The team members at base camp sent their crampons and harnesses up with Sherpa team to replace those lost under snows above.
Info (www.mounteverest.net)

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