June 2005 news
news: K2 reconnaissance team is in K2 classic base camp.
Denis Urubko was in Askole yesterday. Ruchkin and Odintsov
are back in Islamabad. We're not know yet if they enjoy Masherbrum
Face for their future climb...
June, 2005 "Memory
is the life reached shining tops"
June, 2005 K2
West Face reconnaissance expedition: It
was the same heat - like a mountain desert... No cloud at
the sky. Now we are in Paju, 3400 m.
West Face reconnaissance expedition: There
is extremely heat in Pakistan - here at 3000 m the temperature
is 45 C. Too much snow as predicted and it melts too fast.
It couldn't came through some places after the midday - small
streams became the strong mountain rivers
June, 2005 Broad
Peak new route expedition: Denis Urubko called:
all the team is Islamabad. We'll have
the brifing in Tourism Ministry tomorrow and leave for Skardu
the day after.
June, 2005 Pakistan:
K2 West Face group is in Askole
June, 2005 Denis
Urubko and Serguey Samoilov arrived Islamabad. Italian
members have some visa problems and will be later. (Denis's
June, 2005 Pakistan:
Odintsov/Ruchkin for Masherbrum reconnaissance left Skardu
today morning and are going to Askole. K2 West Face team arrived
yesterday to Skardu, and they will start further tomorrow.
Peak new route expedition: Denis Urubko and Serguey
Samoilov left Almaty yesterday and arrived Pakistan. Press
June, 2005 Short
Story about Moldovan Mountaineering
press-conference devoted the project "Broad peak
South Face new route" took place in Almaty today.
Members of the project are: Roberto Piantoni (leader),
Mario Mereli, Domenico Belingheri, Stefano Magri, Marco
Astori, and Matteo Piantoni (Italy).
Denis Urubko and Serguey
Samoilov (Kazakhstan) .
June, 2005 Four members of the K2
West Face reconnaissance expedition fly today to Islamabad
from Moscow: Victor Kozlov, Vassily Yelagin, Piotr Kuznetsov
and Pavel Shabaln.
Alexander Odintsov and Alexander Ruchkin
left Moscow for Pakistan - for the reconnaissamce of the Masherbrum
North Face route.
June, 2005 "7
Summits Club" Everest expedition: Today at 8:45 local
time Dmitry Moskalev and Mingma Norbu Sherpa stayed at Everest
top. Harry Kikstra (Holland) and American Jonh Christiana
and Sherpas Rendgi and Ang Larcha were about hour from the
Tomaz Humar: "The love from
the second view" - attempt two. The Rupal Face
on Nanga Parbat is his goal. The expeditionwill start to
Pakistan July, 2 (www.humar.com)
Radek Jaros summited Nanga Parbat (Kinshoffer route) yesterday.
Simone Moro: Batura II news
(June, 24-26 )
Simone Moro: Batura II news
- Base camp
Simone Moro: Batura II news
- Italian base camp. Polo
at 3332 m
June, 2005 Arco:
European Youth climbing Festival
June, 2005 Batura II news
Batura II: Simone Moro arrived to Islamabad
June, 2005 Valery
Babanov and Rafael Slavinsky climbed new route on Denali
South Face. (7-8 June) - during 14 hours. Route length -
1600 m (they didn't reach the top because of bad visibility).
The route has been named "Infinity Direct".
Alan Hinkes has successfully reached Kangchenjunga summit
on May, 30 at 7pm, and became the first Briton to Summit
the world's 14, 8000m peaks.
Valery Babanov and Rafael Slavinsky summited Denali June,
2 at 2 a.m. Temperature reached -45C. after the short
rest in the Base Camp they'll climb Denali South Face, new
length is about 3000 m.
Himalaya double header: Gerfried Goschl succeeded
yesterday afternoon at 5.50 p.m. local time to reach the
summited Everest alone and without oxygen June,1 at 5-50
p.m. He already had climbed Shisha Pangma 8027m on May 3.
May, 2005 Annapurna
from South: expedition's aborted. " I'm sad and also proud.
We did with Piotr all the work..." - the letter by Piotr Moravsky
to Denis Urubko.
And we finished expedition. Unexpectedly. The rest of our team came
down and told that they are exhausted and fed up, and finished.
So we tried with Piotr Pustelnik. But he stopped also. He had no
power to go up (after 40 days of working). So I left alone. On 7300,
after almost all dificulties (which in the main part are V, A0,
very hard climbing on 7200). Before summit it was two days of work
(some fixing and setting C3) for 2 people a lot of work. I felt
strong enough to do it alone. I was full of power, I think even
stronger than on Shisha. But Piotr, as a leader told, that cannot
go alone, and he did not allow me to go. Now, when I look at it,
it was wise. I'm still not enough experienced. The weather now is
(it is storm and hail). So I'm sad and also proud. We did with Piotr
(the rest of expedition did almost nothing) all the work. Fixed
all the ropes. Piotr allowed me to lead all (2600 meters of ropes
on 2000 meters hard wall, amasing), so I
climbed like with wings. I just climb (as we told), and it gave
me a lot, a lot!
now I'm already mentally at home. This winter I stay at home. But
on spring I'd like to go somewhere. I'm so hungryQ. Sorry for that
kind of mail, but I'm already on basecamp and full with emotion.
Maybe one day we climb together. I hope so! Keep in touch!
Morawski, May, 23. Annapurna Base Camp
to the top
May , 2005 "7 Summits Club" Everest expedition. Messages
from Alexander Abramov (head of the expedition) from ABC:
21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers
Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir
Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit.
Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together
with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At
14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance
to the summit climbers if needed."
21, 17:00: "Today
at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko
Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good,
Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."
May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp
3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The
Sherpa can not go up."
May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of
the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from
the South Side."
22, 14:00: " At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went
up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude
Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked
all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well
as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about
20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen
Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 sherpas are now at the North
col, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."
22,, 17.00, message from Chineese expedition: Victor Mliner
& Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition
sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This
body looks as Marko. Six sherpas, which climbed together with the
members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right
to the top
May , 2005 A huge avalanche struck
Camp 1 on Everest's south side route early this morning. It began
when a big chunk of a serac fell from Everest's West Shoulder and
hit the glacier at the left side of the tents in C1. Seven people
snow and the massive wave destroyed most of the tents there (between
40 and 60, depending on the sources). After the avalanche, only
5 tents remained undamaged. The German team from Leipzig was on
its way down to BC from C2 and they found Camp 1 destroyed 30 minutes
after the avalanche.
"I will never forget that sight," reported Olaf Rieck.
"In the place where the colorful tents of Camp 1 stood, there
was just a flat surface of ice rubble and stones. Among the debris
we found three injured climbers. They have sought shelter inside
a half destroyed tent, waiting for help. Two Sherpas were already
helping them. Three other injured climbers cried at us for help.
One Sherpa and I tried to reach them very carefully, as the broken
terrain through the tents was not safe anymore."
had no first aid kit, so they ran back to BC. 45 minutes later they
met the rescue group. At that moment nobody knew for sure how many
people had spent the night in C1. Later they knew that one Sherpa's
status was critical. Three Americans, Canadian and a solo Polish
climber were injured. "Ironically the whole Iranian Women's
team were spared the destruction by camping slightly farther away
from the main camp. They left for camp two without even knowing
that the rest of camp was flattened under feet of snow." The
team members at base camp sent their crampons and harnesses up with
Sherpa team to replace those lost under snows above.