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July 2005 news

28 July, 2005 Happy birthday, Denis Urubko!

26 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov: The duo descended to the base camp - tired but safe and sound.

25 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov: SMS (0-40 p.m.) "We reached the top at 11-30 a.m. All's OK Denis, Serguey". Congratulations! The new route to Broad SouthWest Face in Alpine style has been climbed! At 18-40 (Moscow time) climbers wrote that they've set the tent at 7200.

24 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov:The strong wind and extremely deep snow with avalanches and dangerous rocks - we spent there too much time and forces. There're no visibility now. We stopped for the night here, at about 7800.

22 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov:(SMS) (7-30 p.m.) WeТre slowly climbing up to stratosphera. After the last part of the yellow bastion and very difficult mixt we are under the rock triangles. Altitude about 6950 m.

21 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov:(SMS) (10-30 p.m.) Very difficult rocks at this belt. We climbed 3 pitches/ Spend night again sitting at the small shelf at the altitude about 6700.

21 July, 2005 Novisibirsk: tomorrow Gleb Sokolov will start from there to Tien Shan - he wants to traverse Pobeda peak, solo. It's more serious goal tham the most of 8000-ers normal routes. Two previous attempts (1978, 2002) were failed. Bad weather and deep snow made the hardest route more and more difficult and dangerous. But the dream is the dream, and let it be realised now! The traverse's planning for August, 10-15. Two acclimatization Khan Tengri climbs will be before it. We'll cover the expedition on our site. Photo: Gleb in special siut made fot this expedition by BASK

20 July, 2005 Broad peak SW Face new route, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov:(SMS) (6-00 p.m.): We stop for the night at 6500 m under the yellow rock belt. Climbed 10 pitches (55 m each). We have to spend night sitting at icy shelf half-a meter wide. We have set the tiny tent with a lot of difficulties and will try to think about something warm...

19 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakhstan Broad peak expedition (SMS) (11-05 a.m.): we've climbed all icefalls, reached the pillar. Set out tent at 6100. We're very tired but in good shape. Tomorrow - black belt of rocks. Wish us luck!

19 July, 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: Yesterday Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Brodsky and Damir Molgachev arrived to Skardu. Their leader Maxut Zhumayev stays in Islamabad - he's waiting the brifing.

18 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakhstan Broad peak expedition (SMS) (4-30 p.m.): we've set our tent at 5100 at the foot of the South-West Face. Today night we're going to start to our new route.

18 July, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called (July, 16): we are in Askole. Our reconnaissance is over. It was siccessful - next year we'll go to West Face.

15 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakhstan Broad peak expedition (SMS) (12-30): Greetings to the readers of a site! In Karakorum there was snow, Broad looks impressively and terribly in the breaks of clouds . According to the forecast on Sunday good weather will begin - after the rest we count on it. If all will be under the plan, 18-22 we shall make an attempt of the SouthWest Face climb. Mood is working. Wish good luck for us! Sergey and Denis

11 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakhstan Broad peak expedition (SMS) (5-27 a.m.): Serguey Samoilov and me reached 7200 at normal route - first in this season. We set the tent, sitting and having tea. We have found five gas cylinders. The weather's worsened (wind, black clouds, snow) and probably, we 'll have to spend the hight here.

11 July, 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: The team's flying to Islamabad today.

11 July, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called (2-20 p.m.): spent night at 5600, our team went up till 6100 to the left of West Face and made photo- and video -report.

11 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Italian-Kazakhstan Broad peak expedition (SMS) Today's the first day of good weather. We went back from the circus under the South Face (5500). The route is too dangerous, many avalanches... We decided to climb via normal route till 7200, and we'll see further...

10 July, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called (1-20 p.m.): we set the tent at 5600, and went up to 5800 to take photoes. Tomorrow we'll try to make pictures of the West Face's profile.

8 July, 2005

K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called yesterday (7 p.m.): Guys reached the foot of the West Face - there'll be ABC next year (5600 m). Now they'll seach future route during 5-6 days.

6 July, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called (11 a.m.): The weather is absolutely bad, all of us stay in BC. I'll call in the evening.

6 July, 2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (SMS) We have found the way through the first icefall. All feel fine. There is hard snow in Karakorum - the snow falls like a thick wall...

5 July, 2005

K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Victor Kozlov called (7 p.m.): Three days of bad weather. Today morning was the window, and guys went again to Japanese camp and deposited some more gear. TOmorrow PIotr, Pavel and Vassily will go up to the bottom of the West Face fot 6 days.

5 July, 2005 The Chief has ordered: "To K2!" and the expedition is organizing in the one week - nobody prepared to this Mount in such short period. But Kazakhstan Army is always ready, and the team - Maxut Zhumayev (leader), Damir Molgachev, Serguey Brodsky and Vassily Pivtsov with the coach Ervand Iljinsky will fly from Almaty to Islamabad July,11. K2 classic route is their goal.

5 July, 2005 Broad Peak new route expedition, SMS from Denis Urubko: our Italian/Kazakh team reached Broad peak base camp today. It's at 4620 m opposite to the Mount. It's huge! All's OK exept the weather and snow amount - I've never seen such Karakorum!

2 July, 2005 K2 West Face reconnaissance expedition: Pavel Shabalin:Today we went up - till the place where Japanese camp was. There are a lot of crevasses at the glacier.

 

Mountaineering
World's news

28 July, 2005 GII: Six Turkish climbers summited GasherbrumII July,22: Serhan Pocan, Burcak Ozoglu Pocan, Soner Buyukatalay, Serkan Girgin, Bora Mavis, ELifeylem Koc.

22 July, 2005 GII: yesterday at 12:00 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited together with two Italian climbers in very hard conditions. The last 200 m took them 5,5 hours to get through deep snow. Last night a group of 19 climbers from Italy, Spain and Korea left from higher camp towards the summit. However, most of them eventually surrendered and turned around. Gerlinde has thus achieved her 8th 8000er, equaling Edurne's record and also Wanda Rutkiewicz's. Interestingly, both Pasaban arnd Kaltenbrunner were considering Broad Peak next.

20 July, 2005 Nanga Parbat: Al Filo team summited today - Edurne Pasaban (leader), Silvio Mondinelli, Josu Bereciartua, Esther Sabadell, Marianne Chapuisat, and Ivan Vallejo (Equador), Hassan (Pakistan). Edurne Pasaban has summited her 8th 8000er. Congratulations! Carlos Pauner has reached the top too! and along with him: Ricardo Valencia, Ignacio СNachoТ Orviz, Martin Ramos, and Miguel Angel Martinez.

18 July, 2005 Nanga Parbat traverse: July, 15 Korean climbers Lee Hylin, 34, and Kim Chang, 39 repeated the Messner route on the Rupal Face, summited and then climb down to classic's base camp on Diamir Face. It was the first repetition of the Messner brothers route (1970), when Ghunter died at the descent. Besides, 6 Japanese climbers, the French girl, Sandrine de Choudens, Spaniard Jorge Egocheaga, and another French climber also summit ed NP July, 15

11 July, 2005 Batura II - news from Simone Moro: Joby injured in avalanche, but evacuated to Gilgit. Expedition is over.

8 July, 2005 Tomas Humar and his team reached Nanga Parbat Rupal Face BC yesterday.

8 July, 2005 Batura II - news from Simone Moro: Camp 2

7 July, 2005 Batura II - news from Simone Moro and Joby Ogwyn (July 5-7) Start!

5 July, 2005 Cordadoppia (Italy) Pamir expedition

4 July, 2005 Batura II - news from Simone Moro (July 2-4) 4 July, 2005 Tomas Humar is in Islamabad. The exp to NP Rupal Face is beginning. Route (climb and acclimatization) from www.humar.com:

1 July, 2005 K2: Polish -Bulgarian team led by Anna Czerwinska set Camp 2 at 6700 June,27

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