| 29 
                        April, 2004 
                         
                          |  | The 
                            Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall 
                            The 
                            team has fixed 15 ropes above 7200, Shabaline's group 
                            are preparing the place for Camp 3... |  28 
                        April, 2004 
                        Jannu North Face Expedition: the team 
                        is working above 7200 now. 28 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        We have to wait the blue sky and the sun because all the 
                        mountain are covered of fresh snow and Baruntse too... 
                        The section we have to climb before to touch the summit, 
                        are 3 big plates of ice covered by dangerous snow. 26 
                        April, 2004 
                        Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: 
                        the team have set Camp 1 and Camp 2. The first group are 
                        climbing now to set Camp 3. If the weather will be good 
                        enough, they'll attempt the summit bid.  26 
                        April, 2004 
                         
                          |  | The 
                            Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall                            The 
                            team set comfortable camp at 7200. Climbers have fixed 
                            ropes at the half of the route, but they need to fix 
                            about 40 ropes more... They reached the big snow field, 
                            and there'll be next difficult part - rocks from 7900 
                            m. |  25 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        There's storm since 3 days and since 3 days Denis and 
                        Boris were working on the face.  24 
                        April, 2004 
                         
                          |  Russian 
                              Mountaineering history
 Serguey 
                              Efimov, Honoured Master of Sports, Honoured 
                              Coach of USSR, Honoured Coach of Russian Federation, 
                              Snow Leopard, the member of the soviet expeditions 
                              to Everest (82) and Kangchenjunga (89), the head 
                              of the expedition to Makalu West Face (Piolet D'Or 
                              97) is 60 today! CONGRATULATIONS! |  23 
                        April, 2004 The 
                        Anatoli Boukreev Fund announces grants to two strong international 
                        teams, both attempting new climbs. in Himalaya. 21 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        Simone Moro's dispatch, photos. 19 
                        April, 2004 
                        Jannu North Face Expedition: the team 
                        reached 6800 m, fixed the portaledge at 6700, and work 
                        further at the route. 17 
                        April, 2004 
                         
                          |  | The 
                            Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall                            Camp 
                            1 has been set at 7000 m. 
                            Shabaline, Tukhvatullin and Mariev have organized 
                            the small place for the tent. There're 3 ropes fixed 
                            above this point, and we hope guys will fix some more 
                            tomorrow... |  17 
                        April, 2004 
                        Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition 
                        The team left for Tibetian boundary at 7 a.m. They'll 
                        spend night in Zangmu, then will arrive to BC April,21. 17 
                        April, 2004 
                        Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team 
                        arrived to BC - two days later because of the strong wind. 
                         16 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        Denis Urubko: 
                        All night around we heard terrible rumble 
                        from Lhotse. Than the wind rambled at Baruntse too... 
                        At 
                        about 5900 m we reached small ridge, and fixed more ropes 
                        before 5 p.m. Totally we fixed 400 m and climbed till 
                        5950 m...  15 
                        April, 2004 
                        Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition 
                        team, led by Alexey Paskhin, flew yesterday to Kathmandu. 
                        Members are: YUri Emelin, Alex Pashkevich, Alex Klimin, 
                        Eugeny Majorov, Serguey Rogachevsky and Oleg Zagainov. 15 
                        April, 2004 
                        Byelorussian Cho Oyu Expedition started 
                        yesterday from Kathmandu. Members are: Mikhai Melnikov, 
                        Vladimir Telpuk, Victor Lutov and Anatoly Lutov.  15 
                        April, 2004 Yerydag. Red and white 
                        - the 6b climb in March 15 
                        April, 2004 The 
                        Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: 
                        The Wall appeares more 
                        serious than we proposed... - interview with Eugeny Vinogradsky 15 
                        April, 2004 
                        Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team 
                        flew to the Base Camp by helicopter from Lukla. Vladislav 
                        Terzyul joined the team.  15 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        Denis Urubko: The wall is great, and inspires the great 
                        respect in all of us.Yesterday we climbed the couloir 
                        near the rock bastion and reached the altitude 5650 m. 
                        We are getting accostomed that we'll live at this wall... 13 
                        April, 2004 The 
                        Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: 
                        Four groups have worked at the 
                        Wall, led by Shabaline, Kuznetsov, Ermachek, Koshelenko. 
                        Team reached 6900 m. We fixed 18 ropes from the berg. 
                        Probably, Koshelenko group will set Camp 1 soon.  12 
                        April, 2004 
                        Jannu North Face Expedition: the team 
                        reached 6300 m. The weather became worth. The Wall stays 
                        almost without snow, so we won't be able to make the snowcaves 
                        at 6500 and 7000...Pictures. 11 
                        April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. 
                        Denis Urubko: we set the Base Camp at 5100, the ABC at 
                        5250... Two days ago I had rescue works instead of the 
                        rest... 7 
                        April , 2004 The 
                        Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall. 
                        Victor Kozlov called from the 
                        Everest Base Camp: the team is working at the Wall. The 
                        first group (led by Koshelenko) returned to the Base Camp 
                        (5600), the second group (led by Shabaline) works at the 
                        route. They spent night at 6200. There are very cold on 
                        the route. Our high-altitude porters look at the Wall 
                        from the bottom and say that Russians are crazy...                        The temperature in the Base at the midday may be about 
                        10C when there are no wind... 7 
                        April, 2004  
                         
                          |  | Kazakstan 
                            Makalu Expedition: yesterday the press-conference 
                            of the members took place in Almaty. The team will 
                            start to Nepal April,9. Members are: Maxut Zhumayev 
                            (leader), Damir Molgachev, Vassily Pivtsov, Alexander 
                            Rudakov, Serguey Brodsky, Artem Rychkov. The coach 
                            of the team - Ervand Iljinsky. Vladislav Terzyul (Ukraine) 
                            will climb together with the team. |  25 
                        March, 2004 The 
                        Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: 
                        the team is in Kathmandu after 
                        Ama Dablam climb, and are ready to start to Tibet to their 
                        main goal. 25 
                        March, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: attempt 2. 
                        The team started to Nepal March, 24. 22 
                        March, 2004 Serguey Bogomolov hopes to climb Annapurna 
                        this Spring - it can become his 12's 8000-er. 22 
                        March, 2004 Denis Urubko is going to climb two new 
                        routes in Himalaya: first will be Baruntse, the second 
                        - Annapurna. 18 
                        March, 2004  
                         
                          |  | The 
                            Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall 
                            All 
                            climbers summited Ama Dablam and descended safe and 
                            sound. The team stripped the base camp and their caravan 
                            left for Lukla and further on March, 20 by plane to 
                            Kathmandu. |  5 
                        March, 2004 
                        Congratulations to the CSKA team (Kazakhstan) - they've 
                        climbed Svobodnaja Korea Peak (5B Russian grade) in Tien 
                        Shan - strong climb in Winter. 5 
                        March, 2004  
                        Everest, North Wall - the 
                        team is going from Lukla to Dingboche. Their nearest plan 
                        is to climb Ama Dablam for the acclimatization. | 
                        Mountaineering 
                          World's news
   29 
                          April, 2004 
                          Makalu - one more project. The small 
                          3-persons team (Christian Trommsdorff, Patrick Wagnon, 
                          and Yannick Grazziani) is going to climb new route from 
                          the East side - no oxygen bottles, no high altitude 
                          porters, no fixed ropes, no pre-established altitude 
                          camps 23 
                          April, 2004 Unclimbed 
                          Himalaya Peaks: 
                          Spanish Geographic Society has launched an expedition 15 
                          April, 2004 
                          British services Makalu - comprises 
                          14 experienced Service mountaineers who will climb the 
                          South East Ridge. Members: Colin Scott, Dave Bunting, 
                          Chris Berryman, Alec Burrell, Stew Boyce, Adrian Mellor, 
                          Uisdean Macdonald, Ben McInnes, Andy Muddiman, Ian Singleton, 
                          Dave Tait, Ian Venables, Sam Marshall, Dick Gale. Camp 
                          1 has been set at 5700 m. 11 
                          April, 2004 
                          Jean-Christophe Lafaille are going 
                          to climb the Northern slope of Makalu , without oxygen 
                          and alone.Normally he and his wife should reach the 
                          base camp of Makalu by April 19  11 
                          April, 2004 
                          mBank Era Annapurna Expedition led 
                          by Piotr Pustelnik to attempt to summit Annapurna in 
                          Spring 2004 with: Dariusz Zaluski - PolandPawel Józefowicz - Poland
 Vlado Strba - Slovakia
 Peter Hamor - Slovakia
 Martin Gablik - Slovakia
 Peter Frankovic - Slovakia
 Serguey Bogomolov - Russia
 Aljosa Markac - Slovenia They choose the Bonnington 
                          classic route on the South Face.
 
 11 
                          April, 2004 
                          Norwegian Makalu Expedition led by Sven Gangdal Climbers 
                          Brit Volden (Norway), Stian Slettum Voldmo (Norway), 
                          Michael Parker (Australia), Josef Nezerka (Czech Republic), 
                          Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (A), Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (B), Ang 
                          Lakpa Sherpa, Kama Singi Syanba Tamang.
 11 
                          April, 2004 Ireland 
                          Everest Expedition. Pat Falvey, age 45, is 
                          a member of the Seven Summits club having climbed the 
                          highest mountain on each of the seven continents. Falvey 
                          hopes to be the first Irish climber to summit Everest 
                          from both the Nepali and Tibetan sides of the mountain. 
                          Members: Clare O'Leary a 32-year-old doctor from Bandon, 
                          Co. Cork. If the expedition is successful O'leary will 
                          be the first Irish woman to stand on top of the world 
                          by summiting Everest; 43-year-old climber and ex- professional 
                          basketball player John Joyce, Pat Duggan  11 
                          April, 2004 Ray 
                          Yeritsian is heading to Himalayas this spring for Cho-Oyu/ 
                          Everest double header.  Cho-Oyu (8201m) - North 
                          West Ridge route. Mt. Everest (8848m) - North Col / 
                          North Face / Norton Couloir route (variation). He will 
                          be climbing alone... unsupported... no supplemental 
                          oxygen. |