29
April, 2004
|
The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall
The
team has fixed 15 ropes above 7200, Shabaline's group
are preparing the place for Camp 3... |
28
April, 2004
Jannu North Face Expedition: the team
is working above 7200 now.
28
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
We have to wait the blue sky and the sun because all the
mountain are covered of fresh snow and Baruntse too...
The section we have to climb before to touch the summit,
are 3 big plates of ice covered by dangerous snow.
26
April, 2004
Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition:
the team have set Camp 1 and Camp 2. The first group are
climbing now to set Camp 3. If the weather will be good
enough, they'll attempt the summit bid.
26
April, 2004
|
The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The
team set comfortable camp at 7200. Climbers have fixed
ropes at the half of the route, but they need to fix
about 40 ropes more... They reached the big snow field,
and there'll be next difficult part - rocks from 7900
m. |
25
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
There's storm since 3 days and since 3 days Denis and
Boris were working on the face.
24
April, 2004
Russian
Mountaineering history
Serguey
Efimov, Honoured Master of Sports, Honoured
Coach of USSR, Honoured Coach of Russian Federation,
Snow Leopard, the member of the soviet expeditions
to Everest (82) and Kangchenjunga (89), the head
of the expedition to Makalu West Face (Piolet D'Or
97) is 60 today! CONGRATULATIONS! |
23
April, 2004 The
Anatoli Boukreev Fund announces grants to two strong international
teams, both attempting new climbs. in Himalaya.
21
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
Simone Moro's dispatch, photos.
19
April, 2004
Jannu North Face Expedition: the team
reached 6800 m, fixed the portaledge at 6700, and work
further at the route.
17
April, 2004
|
The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Camp
1 has been set at 7000 m.
Shabaline, Tukhvatullin and Mariev have organized
the small place for the tent. There're 3 ropes fixed
above this point, and we hope guys will fix some more
tomorrow... |
17
April, 2004
Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition
The team left for Tibetian boundary at 7 a.m. They'll
spend night in Zangmu, then will arrive to BC April,21.
17
April, 2004
Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team
arrived to BC - two days later because of the strong wind.
16
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
Denis Urubko:
All night around we heard terrible rumble
from Lhotse. Than the wind rambled at Baruntse too...
At
about 5900 m we reached small ridge, and fixed more ropes
before 5 p.m. Totally we fixed 400 m and climbed till
5950 m...
15
April, 2004
Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition
team, led by Alexey Paskhin, flew yesterday to Kathmandu.
Members are: YUri Emelin, Alex Pashkevich, Alex Klimin,
Eugeny Majorov, Serguey Rogachevsky and Oleg Zagainov.
15
April, 2004
Byelorussian Cho Oyu Expedition started
yesterday from Kathmandu. Members are: Mikhai Melnikov,
Vladimir Telpuk, Victor Lutov and Anatoly Lutov.
15
April, 2004 Yerydag. Red and white
- the 6b climb in March
15
April, 2004 The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall:
The Wall appeares more
serious than we proposed... - interview with Eugeny Vinogradsky
15
April, 2004
Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team
flew to the Base Camp by helicopter from Lukla. Vladislav
Terzyul joined the team.
15
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
Denis Urubko: The wall is great, and inspires the great
respect in all of us.Yesterday we climbed the couloir
near the rock bastion and reached the altitude 5650 m.
We are getting accostomed that we'll live at this wall...
13
April, 2004 The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall:
Four groups have worked at the
Wall, led by Shabaline, Kuznetsov, Ermachek, Koshelenko.
Team reached 6900 m. We fixed 18 ropes from the berg.
Probably, Koshelenko group will set Camp 1 soon.
12
April, 2004
Jannu North Face Expedition: the team
reached 6300 m. The weather became worth. The Wall stays
almost without snow, so we won't be able to make the snowcaves
at 6500 and 7000...Pictures.
11
April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.
Denis Urubko: we set the Base Camp at 5100, the ABC at
5250... Two days ago I had rescue works instead of the
rest...
7
April , 2004 The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall.
Victor Kozlov called from the
Everest Base Camp: the team is working at the Wall. The
first group (led by Koshelenko) returned to the Base Camp
(5600), the second group (led by Shabaline) works at the
route. They spent night at 6200. There are very cold on
the route. Our high-altitude porters look at the Wall
from the bottom and say that Russians are crazy... The temperature in the Base at the midday may be about
10C when there are no wind...
7
April, 2004
|
Kazakstan
Makalu Expedition: yesterday the press-conference
of the members took place in Almaty. The team will
start to Nepal April,9. Members are: Maxut Zhumayev
(leader), Damir Molgachev, Vassily Pivtsov, Alexander
Rudakov, Serguey Brodsky, Artem Rychkov. The coach
of the team - Ervand Iljinsky. Vladislav Terzyul (Ukraine)
will climb together with the team. |
25
March, 2004 The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall:
the team is in Kathmandu after
Ama Dablam climb, and are ready to start to Tibet to their
main goal.
25
March, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: attempt 2.
The team started to Nepal March, 24.
22
March, 2004 Serguey Bogomolov hopes to climb Annapurna
this Spring - it can become his 12's 8000-er.
22
March, 2004 Denis Urubko is going to climb two new
routes in Himalaya: first will be Baruntse, the second
- Annapurna.
18
March, 2004
|
The
Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall
All
climbers summited Ama Dablam and descended safe and
sound. The team stripped the base camp and their caravan
left for Lukla and further on March, 20 by plane to
Kathmandu. |
5
March, 2004
Congratulations to the CSKA team (Kazakhstan) - they've
climbed Svobodnaja Korea Peak (5B Russian grade) in Tien
Shan - strong climb in Winter.
5
March, 2004
Everest, North Wall - the
team is going from Lukla to Dingboche. Their nearest plan
is to climb Ama Dablam for the acclimatization. |
Mountaineering
World's news
29
April, 2004
Makalu - one more project. The small
3-persons team (Christian Trommsdorff, Patrick Wagnon,
and Yannick Grazziani) is going to climb new route from
the East side - no oxygen bottles, no high altitude
porters, no fixed ropes, no pre-established altitude
camps
23
April, 2004 Unclimbed
Himalaya Peaks:
Spanish Geographic Society has launched an expedition
15
April, 2004
British services Makalu - comprises
14 experienced Service mountaineers who will climb the
South East Ridge. Members: Colin Scott, Dave Bunting,
Chris Berryman, Alec Burrell, Stew Boyce, Adrian Mellor,
Uisdean Macdonald, Ben McInnes, Andy Muddiman, Ian Singleton,
Dave Tait, Ian Venables, Sam Marshall, Dick Gale. Camp
1 has been set at 5700 m.
11
April, 2004
Jean-Christophe Lafaille are going
to climb the Northern slope of Makalu , without oxygen
and alone.Normally he and his wife should reach the
base camp of Makalu by April 19
11
April, 2004
mBank Era Annapurna Expedition led
by Piotr Pustelnik to attempt to summit Annapurna in
Spring 2004 with: Dariusz Zaluski - Poland
Pawel Józefowicz - Poland
Vlado Strba - Slovakia
Peter Hamor - Slovakia
Martin Gablik - Slovakia
Peter Frankovic - Slovakia
Serguey Bogomolov - Russia
Aljosa Markac - Slovenia They choose the Bonnington
classic route on the South Face.
11
April, 2004
Norwegian Makalu Expedition led by Sven Gangdal Climbers
Brit Volden (Norway), Stian Slettum Voldmo (Norway),
Michael Parker (Australia), Josef Nezerka (Czech Republic),
Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (A), Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (B), Ang
Lakpa Sherpa, Kama Singi Syanba Tamang.
11
April, 2004 Ireland
Everest Expedition. Pat Falvey, age 45, is
a member of the Seven Summits club having climbed the
highest mountain on each of the seven continents. Falvey
hopes to be the first Irish climber to summit Everest
from both the Nepali and Tibetan sides of the mountain.
Members: Clare O'Leary a 32-year-old doctor from Bandon,
Co. Cork. If the expedition is successful O'leary will
be the first Irish woman to stand on top of the world
by summiting Everest; 43-year-old climber and ex- professional
basketball player John Joyce, Pat Duggan
11
April, 2004 Ray
Yeritsian is heading to Himalayas this spring for Cho-Oyu/
Everest double header. Cho-Oyu (8201m) - North
West Ridge route. Mt. Everest (8848m) - North Col /
North Face / Norton Couloir route (variation). He will
be climbing alone... unsupported... no supplemental
oxygen.
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