Back to the latest news

 

March-April 2004 news

29 April, 2004

The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The team has fixed 15 ropes above 7200, Shabaline's group are preparing the place for Camp 3...

28 April, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: the team is working above 7200 now.

28 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. We have to wait the blue sky and the sun because all the mountain are covered of fresh snow and Baruntse too... The section we have to climb before to touch the summit, are 3 big plates of ice covered by dangerous snow.

26 April, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team have set Camp 1 and Camp 2. The first group are climbing now to set Camp 3. If the weather will be good enough, they'll attempt the summit bid.

26 April, 2004

The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The team set comfortable camp at 7200. Climbers have fixed ropes at the half of the route, but they need to fix about 40 ropes more... They reached the big snow field, and there'll be next difficult part - rocks from 7900 m.

25 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. There's storm since 3 days and since 3 days Denis and Boris were working on the face.

24 April, 2004

Russian Mountaineering history

Serguey Efimov, Honoured Master of Sports, Honoured Coach of USSR, Honoured Coach of Russian Federation, Snow Leopard, the member of the soviet expeditions to Everest (82) and Kangchenjunga (89), the head of the expedition to Makalu West Face (Piolet D'Or 97) is 60 today! CONGRATULATIONS!

23 April, 2004 The Anatoli Boukreev Fund announces grants to two strong international teams, both attempting new climbs. in Himalaya.

21 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Simone Moro's dispatch, photos.

19 April, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: the team reached 6800 m, fixed the portaledge at 6700, and work further at the route.

17 April, 2004

The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Camp 1 has been set at 7000 m. Shabaline, Tukhvatullin and Mariev have organized the small place for the tent. There're 3 ropes fixed above this point, and we hope guys will fix some more tomorrow...

17 April, 2004 Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition The team left for Tibetian boundary at 7 a.m. They'll spend night in Zangmu, then will arrive to BC April,21.

17 April, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team arrived to BC - two days later because of the strong wind.

16 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis Urubko: All night around we heard terrible rumble from Lhotse. Than the wind rambled at Baruntse too... At about 5900 m we reached small ridge, and fixed more ropes before 5 p.m. Totally we fixed 400 m and climbed till 5950 m...

15 April, 2004 Saint-Petersburg Shisha Pangma Expedition team, led by Alexey Paskhin, flew yesterday to Kathmandu. Members are: YUri Emelin, Alex Pashkevich, Alex Klimin, Eugeny Majorov, Serguey Rogachevsky and Oleg Zagainov.

15 April, 2004 Byelorussian Cho Oyu Expedition started yesterday from Kathmandu. Members are: Mikhai Melnikov, Vladimir Telpuk, Victor Lutov and Anatoly Lutov.

15 April, 2004 Yerydag. Red and white - the 6b climb in March

15 April, 2004 The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: The Wall appeares more serious than we proposed... - interview with Eugeny Vinogradsky

15 April, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team flew to the Base Camp by helicopter from Lukla. Vladislav Terzyul joined the team.

15 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis Urubko: The wall is great, and inspires the great respect in all of us.Yesterday we climbed the couloir near the rock bastion and reached the altitude 5650 m. We are getting accostomed that we'll live at this wall...

13 April, 2004 The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: Four groups have worked at the Wall, led by Shabaline, Kuznetsov, Ermachek, Koshelenko. Team reached 6900 m. We fixed 18 ropes from the berg. Probably, Koshelenko group will set Camp 1 soon.

12 April, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: the team reached 6300 m. The weather became worth. The Wall stays almost without snow, so we won't be able to make the snowcaves at 6500 and 7000...Pictures.

11 April, 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis Urubko: we set the Base Camp at 5100, the ABC at 5250... Two days ago I had rescue works instead of the rest...

7 April , 2004 The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall. Victor Kozlov called from the Everest Base Camp: the team is working at the Wall. The first group (led by Koshelenko) returned to the Base Camp (5600), the second group (led by Shabaline) works at the route. They spent night at 6200. There are very cold on the route. Our high-altitude porters look at the Wall from the bottom and say that Russians are crazy... The temperature in the Base at the midday may be about 10C when there are no wind...

7 April, 2004

Kazakstan Makalu Expedition: yesterday the press-conference of the members took place in Almaty. The team will start to Nepal April,9. Members are: Maxut Zhumayev (leader), Damir Molgachev, Vassily Pivtsov, Alexander Rudakov, Serguey Brodsky, Artem Rychkov. The coach of the team - Ervand Iljinsky. Vladislav Terzyul (Ukraine) will climb together with the team.

25 March, 2004 The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: the team is in Kathmandu after Ama Dablam climb, and are ready to start to Tibet to their main goal.

25 March, 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: attempt 2. The team started to Nepal March, 24.

22 March, 2004 Serguey Bogomolov hopes to climb Annapurna this Spring - it can become his 12's 8000-er.

22 March, 2004 Denis Urubko is going to climb two new routes in Himalaya: first will be Baruntse, the second - Annapurna.

18 March, 2004

The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall All climbers summited Ama Dablam and descended safe and sound. The team stripped the base camp and their caravan left for Lukla and further on March, 20 by plane to Kathmandu.

5 March, 2004 Congratulations to the CSKA team (Kazakhstan) - they've climbed Svobodnaja Korea Peak (5B Russian grade) in Tien Shan - strong climb in Winter.

5 March, 2004 Everest, North Wall - the team is going from Lukla to Dingboche. Their nearest plan is to climb Ama Dablam for the acclimatization.

Mountaineering
World's news

 

29 April, 2004 Makalu - one more project. The small 3-persons team (Christian Trommsdorff, Patrick Wagnon, and Yannick Grazziani) is going to climb new route from the East side - no oxygen bottles, no high altitude porters, no fixed ropes, no pre-established altitude camps

23 April, 2004 Unclimbed Himalaya Peaks: Spanish Geographic Society has launched an expedition

15 April, 2004 British services Makalu - comprises 14 experienced Service mountaineers who will climb the South East Ridge. Members: Colin Scott, Dave Bunting, Chris Berryman, Alec Burrell, Stew Boyce, Adrian Mellor, Uisdean Macdonald, Ben McInnes, Andy Muddiman, Ian Singleton, Dave Tait, Ian Venables, Sam Marshall, Dick Gale. Camp 1 has been set at 5700 m.

11 April, 2004 Jean-Christophe Lafaille are going to climb the Northern slope of Makalu , without oxygen and alone.Normally he and his wife should reach the base camp of Makalu by April 19

11 April, 2004 mBank Era Annapurna Expedition led by Piotr Pustelnik to attempt to summit Annapurna in Spring 2004 with: Dariusz Zaluski - Poland
Pawel Józefowicz - Poland
Vlado Strba - Slovakia
Peter Hamor - Slovakia
Martin Gablik - Slovakia
Peter Frankovic - Slovakia
Serguey Bogomolov - Russia
Aljosa Markac - Slovenia They choose the Bonnington classic route on the South Face.


11 April, 2004 Norwegian Makalu Expedition led by Sven Gangdal Climbers Brit Volden (Norway), Stian Slettum Voldmo (Norway), Michael Parker (Australia), Josef Nezerka (Czech Republic), Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (A), Dawa Chhiri Sherpa (B), Ang Lakpa Sherpa, Kama Singi Syanba Tamang.

11 April, 2004 Ireland Everest Expedition. Pat Falvey, age 45, is a member of the Seven Summits club having climbed the highest mountain on each of the seven continents. Falvey hopes to be the first Irish climber to summit Everest from both the Nepali and Tibetan sides of the mountain. Members: Clare O'Leary a 32-year-old doctor from Bandon, Co. Cork. If the expedition is successful O'leary will be the first Irish woman to stand on top of the world by summiting Everest; 43-year-old climber and ex- professional basketball player John Joyce, Pat Duggan

11 April, 2004 Ray Yeritsian is heading to Himalayas this spring for Cho-Oyu/ Everest double header. Cho-Oyu (8201m) - North West Ridge route. Mt. Everest (8848m) - North Col / North Face / Norton Couloir route (variation). He will be climbing alone... unsupported... no supplemental oxygen.

April, 23, 2004 The Anatoly Boukreev Fund announces grants to two strong international teams, both attempting new climbs in Himalaya.

Andrey Puchinin (Kazakhstan) and Chad Kellogg of Seattle (USA) have received a grant to climb the SSE Ridge of K2, in alpine style, as a team of two. Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan) has been awarded a grant for his attempt of Baruntse and Annapurna with Italian alpinist Simone Moro. Simone is a member of the Board of Directors of the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund

April, 23 Unclimbed Himalaya Peaks

Carlos Soria leads the expedition, organized by The Spanish Geographic Society to an unclimbed peak called Dome Kang (7260 m.) The mountain is hidden in the isolated Kangchenjunga region, western Nepal, on the border with Tibet and Sikkim The team will try one more climb - a new route to Jongsang Peak (7460 m)l, climbed only twice before – in 1930 (Dyrenfurth expedition) and 1983 (Indian Army team) – and never from its Nepal side. Spanish BC has been set at 5320 meters. There are plenty of unclimbed peaks around the plateau 12km long, 6km wide located higher than 7000 m. Two Slovenians reached the southern edge of the plateau in alpine style in 2000; one of them fell to his death during the descent.

Carlos Soria is 64, he reached the summit of Everest when he was 62. Last year the tried to be the oldest on the summit of K2 and Broad peak, though the weather conditions prevented him from reaching the top.

 

News archives