me nor you will ever climb such a mountain again-
June, 2004 The team arrived
to Moscow. The press-conference took place in Sheremetjevo airport.
May, 2004 Today at 11 a.m. Nickolay
Totmjanin, Gennady Kirievsky and Serguey Borisov summited Jannu!
they are in Camp 3 at 7000 m. All's OK. The weather today isn't
so bad, it's cloudy in the afternoon, and dry. We plan to evacuate
upper camps tomorrow and all members will come back to BC. M.
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin: (evening) Here're
the details of continuation of the climb. As
it was told, yesterday, approximately at 3.30 p.m. Ruchkin and
Pavlenko reached the top of Jannu. Further, about 5 p.m.
Dmitry Pavlenko has gone down to a portaledge at 7400, having
had a short rest and than gone down to the camp 7000. About 6
p.m. Ruchkin descended to the portaledge too. He assumed to spend
the night there, however about 8 p.m. he felt worse and understanded
a necessity to go down, to camp 7000 where the altitude isn't
so much and it's more comfortable and the drugstore's more complete.
Alexander Ruchkin descended to 7000 at 12 p.m. with the help of
Gennady Kirievsky, and in the morning together with Pavlenko they
has gone down to base camp. Now everything is all right. Alexander
Odintsov because of deterioration of the state of his health had
to go down to base camp too. Alexey Bolotov has gone downwards
too, as during the ascent his crampon has been broken and the
further ascention became Impossible. So, we have such holiday
with tears. Now Kirievsky, Borisov and Totmjanin are in a portaledge
on 7400. Tomorrow they should try to summit. The weather is not
clear, as always. May, 24 our visa was finished, permit was arrested
in the Ministry of Tourism, and our plane departed from Kathmandu
May, 25 to Moscow. M.Bakin.
Odintsov called: Dmitry Pavlenko and Alexander Ruchkin,
tired very hard, have descended to base camp. The three-men group
Tomjanin, Kirievsky and Borisov were at 7400 today, the weather
was very bad. Tomorrow, May 28 they are planning the summit bid.
The team are going back to Kathmandu May, 31.
May, 2004 JANNU
NORTH FACE HAS BEEN CLIMBED!!!
Today Alexander Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko reached the top. The
party Borisov-Kirievsky is planning to summit tomorrow. The ascent
of other climbers depends on the weather next days. The first
party is already at 7400
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin: (evening) Today we didn't
work at the wall, the weather turned from bad to extremely bad.
All climbers sat at their tents adn drank what they could find
- from citramon pills till coffee
weather's very bad from early morning. It's snowing hard and strong
wind. Ruchkin and Pavlenko tried to go up for work further at
the wall, but had to return to the portaledge. (7400). Bolotov,
overgoing the pain and doupts ascended yesterday to CAmp 5600.
Now he together with Totmjanin goes to Camp2 (6700). Kirievsky
and Borisov are at 7000, at the bottom of the wall. Hope, the
situation would be better during the day. M. Bakin
Bolotov (Yekaterinburg) and Dmitry Pavlenko
(Moscow) were in 1997 in the team led by Serguey Efimof and managed
first climb of Makalu West Face together with Nickolay Zhilin,
Yuri Ermachek (both are in Everest North Wall team now), and Igor
Bugachevsky, who died while descending. The leader of the team
Salavat Habibullin had climbed the whole wall with the team, and
died at the upper part of the route, at the ridge already.The
team was awarded by Piolet D'Or in 1998. Alexey Bolotov summited
Talay Sagar (one of the best climbs of XX century) in 1999, and
Middle Lhotse with the team led by Victor Kozlov in 2001- Alexey
was the first who climbed the
15-meters rocky wall just under the top at 8400 m altitude
- these moments are recorded in Kozlov's film "Russian 8-thousander".
In 2002 Alexey summited Everest without supplementary oxygen.
Ruchkin is famous by his highest Grade solo-climbs,
first climbs and winter climbs on TIen Shan, Pamir, Pamir Alay,
and in Alpes too - for example , Winter "solo" p.Grandes
Gorasses - north face TD+ "Linceul", p.Domino "Messner".
He managed the first
climb to Troll Wall in Norway - "Russian route"
in 1997. IN 2002 he was a member of Odintsov's team which climbed
Great SAil Peak in Canada (Baffin Island).
IT's interesting, that he was only twice at altitude higher than
7000 m - on Lenin Peak (7134) in 1991 and on Khan Tengri (7010)
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin:
Today the party Pavlenko-Ruchkin continued to work on a wall.
Such impression, that a ridge as like a line of horizon - the
closer we go, the farther it seems . Today the guys have worked
approximately 60 meters more. If to look at a photo, the upper
end of the fixed ropes is at the left and above the big snow stain
under top and does not touch a ridge a little. But these are assumptions
to a certain extent, as the wall is not visible; it's overcast
and the climbers can't see the ridge because of cornices.THe weather
is unstable today, but better, than yesterday. There was no snowfall.
We shall look, that will bring tomorrow's day. M.Bakin.
May, 2004 The struggle for the top goes on a limit of
human opportunities. The third day climbers, exhausted by a physical
pressure, an altitude, dehydration, and sleepless night in the
portaledge, win 30 meters of a vertical per day from the mountain.
These meters of difficult climbing at the altitude about 7600
m turn to meters incredibly difficult climbing - there were not
analogues of such work yet in modern mountaneering. Today the
party Alexander Ruchkin-Dmitry Pavlenko has continued work on
a wall. They climbed about 80 meters. Mikhail Mikhailov felt like
not so well, and has remained in the portaledge, than he descended
to BC. The wall began be less steep, but the continuous snowfall
nullifies this advantage, as snow fill cracks. The direction of
the movement has deviated from vertical to the left, aside a ridge.
"Everyone who can hold the gan" go upward. S.Borisov
and G.Kirievsky have gone up from camp 1 (5600) to camp 2 (6700).
There's very difficult part of the route above camp 5600 after
snowfalls. As Gennady Kirievsky says, it was necessary to dig
a trench in the snow -it is higher than a belt. A.Odintsov and
N.Totmjanin ascended to camp 1. The weather is bad yet. M.Bakin,
comments of members of the climb concerning the route (upper 7000):
M.Mikhailov: " there Is no meter where it
is possible to relax: or a vertical, or hang rocks ",
S.Borisov: " Fixed ropes aren't touch the
wall all of 500 meters ... " Serguey feels like well after
the rest and treatments.
Just now, at 10 p.m. doctor Bakin called that the altitude has
been reached today was about 7700 m.
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin: Today,
May, 21, weather, as well as yesterday, was non-working. It was
snowing since the morning though night was cold and clear. The
advanced party worked in spite of those conditions. They climbed
very hard 30 meters more, and what meters! Hanging chimney with
a block had been climbed. It's possible to tell, that we were
hooked for a "roof". They could see in dense overcast
the further internal corner with shelfs and vertical walls, which
are not monolith as it seems from below. But it's not a hang rock
yet. Tomorrow Sergey Borisov, Gennagy Kirievsky and Nickolay Totmjanin
leaves for camp 5600.
As I think, our process hangs, as a drop on a nose. And where
this drop will fall, depends on many (and casual - that's the
main thing) circumstances. As it has happened with Serguey Borisov
and Alex Bolotov. But guys struggle, as Mtsyri (Russian heroic
poetry personage - ed.note). May be, the God will render for heroism
and courage. Each day is as critical for us. We wait that the
wall will begin to be slightly less steep. The weather is worthless,
it snowing on a wall the second day. A wall is covered by a cloud,
nothing is visible, therefore don't wait the information before
the evening connection. Greetings to all.. Doctor Mike" May,
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin: There was bad weather
all the day long. It is raining in the base camp, and is snowing
on the wall. A party Ruchkin-Mikhailov could climbed 30 meters
above 7500 for 10 hours.
May, 2004 Doctor Mikhail Bakin:
Mikhailov's group ascended the latest highest camp: the portaledge
at 7400m. If weather permit, tomorrow the guys plan to continue
climb above 7500. But the weather may not allow. In the base camp
it was raining all the day long, but on the wall it was snowing.
All the others are staying in the base camp for a while. The health
state is in reasonable limits.
Hi friengs! Here's, in short, last days events and our pespectives
as we see them.
According to our plan 14.05 morning
Pershin and Totmjanin had to remove the portaledge from 7200 to
7400 m. and than to descend to base. Bolotov's group were going
up to work at the wall. But Mike Pershin felt bad in morning,
(he has got a haemorrhage of eye's retina), so Nick Totmjanin
removed the portaledge by himself and descended to 5600 camp.
Bolotov, Borisov and Kirievsky had climbed up to 7400,
organized the bivyak, and spent night at 7400. Next day Totmjanin
when descended was injured by the falling stone (face and leg)
but he descended successfully to base and after some treatment
he can work again.
15.05. Bolotov-Borisov party worked at the wall,
climbed one very difficult pitch.
16.05. Near the upper end of fixed ropes rolling
stone had tought Serguey Borisov. "Cassidy" was lost
but safed his head. Only knocked and slightly injured the skin.
Evidently, Serguey couldn't work further, he descended to the
portaledge, where Gennady Kirievsky rendered him first aid. Serguey
decided to descend to base alone because felt good enough. Bolotov
and Kirievsky continued to work at the wall. About 2 hours later
Alex, climbing the extremely difficult carnice, fell down and
his rib was broken in the result.
the situation May 16 midday was: Gennady Kirievsky and injured
Alex Bolotov in the portaledge at 7400. Serguey Borisov with the
hole in his head at 7000 camp. Mikhailov- Ruchkin and Pavlenko
at 5600 - they're going up.
detailes: Borisov descended to Base Camp May, 17, he's OK now.
Bolotov and Kirievsky came back to BC today, May 18. Alex won't
continue the climb. We lost four days because of theese sad events.
The team reached 7500 m.
group is at 7000 m now, at the bottom of the wall. They'll ascend
to the portaledge at 7400 tomorrow, so will begin to work on May
20. THe weather's unstable.
Bakin, May 18.
May, 2004 Alexander Odintsov called May 17 from BC:
team (Alexey Bolotov, Serguey Borisov and Gennady Kirievsky) were
climbing up through the carnice - last before the top, when the
accidente took place. Alexey Bolotov has fallen from the carnice
falling has caused, in turn, falling of a stone, which tought
head. The traumas are not too serious, all three climbers have
already descended to BC. The doctor renders the guys first aid.
Mikhail Pershin before this accident has descended to BC together
with Nickolay Totmjanin. Mike has a problem with his eyes - it
can happen with climbers after the extremely hard work at the
Three-men team Ruchkin-Mikhailov-Pavlenko are going up to climb
the cornice and three last pitches left after it.
A monsoon this year is coming early. It is not as usual. But before
arrival of the monsoon the team should have some days of good
weather more during which the leading three-men team will be able
to make the last pitches, summit and descend before bad weather
May, 2004 Nickolay Totmjanin
and me once again worked our way through the wall. For three days
we made two and more pitches, and one of the days we spent getting
over a cornice. Mike worked the first. Somewhere on a sea level
he would overcome such steep wall for a pair of hours. Last working
day I hauled the portaledge at 7400m. Yekaterinburg climbers work
now above it, and our party having descended yesterday staying
now in the base camp. The snow on the plateau has become such
limp, that we fall through up to the waist even in snowshoes!
There is winter above, but lower than 6000 m spring came. I don't
complain of my health. Descending from 5100 m on the last pitch
I got a little bit scratched my face and my favorite glasses broken
by a rolling stone, but today in the morning I had a shave for
the first time. It seems the Mount doesn't want to let bearded
person to come close to it. Finally speed of movement was stabilized
on one pitch a day. Not densely, but it is not bad. On the "roof",
because any high mountain has own roof, the speed should increase!
I hope that in the nearest 7 days we shall summited. Let's not
guess our fortune. We miss home very much, but we have to finish
the epopee. We have spent forces and means a lot. The team is
powerful, another time we would not collect such team. We thought
that we were engaged in mountaineering earlier. It appeared baby-talk
in comparison with climbing on Jannu.
P.S. Today in the afternoon the advanced three-man team had to
stop work on the route and descend in the tent at 7000 m (why?
details - later...)
for the first time in mountaineering history, the portaledge was
brought and settled at 7400 m. The vanguard group every day leaves
in "free space" and vins meter behind meter from a vertical
wall. The psychological shock from the first acquaintance to a
wall has passed. A pitch per day - isn't a rarity. Three-four
meters free climbing - aerobatics.
There are 2-3 very difficult ropes ahead. - 80-degree steep plates
with 1-2 m carnices and at last - is vertical 20-meters chimney
which is in deep in 6-meters carnice. It has destroyed walls opening
outside. Each hour working at the mountain - overcoming inmpossible.
It's nothing visible above - so, means there should be less steepy.
A psychological pressure grows. We can't demand "to add"
from each other, as we don'tknow even our abilities limit - it
first. Second, we should be cautious, now we haven't right on
a mistake. I ask all gods and sacred to protect us from wrong
actions. Today Bolotov- Borisov - Kirievsky work ahead - they've
climbed one more rope. THe weather is while for us.
May, 2004 Alexander Ruchkin from the Base Camp (evening):
friends, our group continues to rehabilitate in the base camp
due to kind doctor Bakin. He treats all of us and by the different
work at the wall continues in normal order. Totmjanin- Pershin
climbed some pitches more and reached the black rock zone which
crosses the wall, and climbed 15 m above it, became closer to
our dream goal.
Today Bolotov's group, who are the third day on the way upwards,
started from 7000 m to the portaledge at 7400 (Nickolay Totmjanin
has removed it to that point). The removal was successful, and
Bolotov-Borisov-Kirievsky reached 7400, fixed the portaledge,
and brought all equipment, food, gas, etc. for living there during
4 days - to climb next difficult part of the route.
Totmjanin and Pershin descended to 5600 camp. Tomorrow they'll
go down to BC. There're all news on May, 14. Meet you soon in
Internet. Greetings to all who wait and believe in us.
May 14, 6-54 p.m.
Dingle, who was the leader of the New Zealand team made the first
attempt at Jannu North Face in 1975, greets our team:
route your team is attempting is indeed audacious. We climbed
the wall further to the left and reached the summit ridge but
not the summit due to hurricane force winds. It was post monsoon
and the wall was plastered in ice with extreme avalanche danger.
For 1975 it was technically difficult v possibly one of the hardest
climbs in the Himalaya at that time. The very best of luck to
May,14, 5-49 a.m.
Ruchkin from the Base Camp (morning):
friends, here's the Spring, by the end, at this high-altitude
corner! And it isn't clear - is it good or no for us... We noticed
it already during the last descent - our ice screws and stations
melted off from the ice. It became wormer with every rope down.
There were frozen waterfalls at 6000 m, and we found our ropes
under the ice about some ˝entimeters, and we had to free them
from the ice prison, and to descend only after that. It's an impression
that the Mount don't want to free unbidden guests who had broken
hard, we went down with Mikhail Mikhailov along frozen ropes.
Mike went the first and freed ropes from ice, used spesial Russian
lexicon, and I followed him with the same words and tryed to put
icy rope into gri-gri. Five days which we spent above 7000m gave
the result - we were shaken because been very tired, and our crampon's
teeth were rubbed out - so we looked like drunk cows at the ice.
leaved in the portaledge at 7200, so could begin to work earlier
and didn't spend so much time to ascend by ropes. The route from
7000 m is a vertical granite wall, with carnices which are already
the problem at the sea level, not at 7000 m. Climbing grade above
7000 m is about 6B (Russian Grade) or A3 (if transmit the wall
closer to the sea and use the rock shoes instead of Millets) There
were cracks at the absolutely smooth wall, but the thinest hooks
could't been installed into it, and what could I say about fingers?
And after that relief, where we could find something, we went
till carnice, where the first of us had to use the smallest nuts,
stoppers, testing the calmness of the second of us. Then in the
wide cracks, there were stones, wedged or frozen in ice - so we
used camalots or friends, which safed us only at the edge of fall.
The rock was constantly hanging ower us, and we had to strained
all our forces - and felt then into the portaledge, tired, and
couldn't move. Our expectation that the wall will soon be not
so steep - is only an illusion, and our friends who changed us
at the wall, have confirmed it.
and Pershin work three days at the wall, and carnices follower
each other, and the rock hangs over as earlier. It's incredible
wall, may be, it's the most difficult wall at such altitude. But
we climb it, and there is already not so far from the summit.
May,14, 7-29 a.m.
"We are praying to all Gods...", - called from the Base
Camp Alexander Odintsov. Nickolay
Totmjanin and Mikhail Pershin are working at 7500 m, Bolotov's
group will change them tomorrow. Guys need 10 days of good weather
to complete the successful climb. But the Himalaya forecast, which
Ivan Samoilenko send us, isn't optimistic.
May, 2004 Alexander Ruchkin from BC:
friends! We have descended again on our tired legs - we can't
understand how to go on the plain. Eight days we went only by
ropes, up or down. Four of them - upwards, estimating the route
on the rock which is unclimbed yet. We went three days to 7000
m, then two nights at 7000, then two nights at 7200 m. Our faces
look like Chinese - because of lot of water which has been drunk
by our organizms, dryed in that thin air above 7200 m. It appeared
that Jannu coqueted with us. She's like the forbidding woman -
she allows us to approach to the definite point, and no further.
All our attempts were poor - 5 m, 20 m, 30 m per day - what does
it mean for the route 2,8 km length...
remember nothing like this route. The Mount confirms it by every
meter of Wall above 7200. Four days of climbing above 7200 - our
ropes doesn't touch the rock, they are hanging down in the air.
You have to concentrate all your abilities to climb only 50 meters
per day - you descend to the portaledge in evening being squeesing
out, without any forces, and you absolutely can't move. Only drink
your morning begins in the portaledge at 5-6 a.m. You melt the
ice, boil the water, cook the breakfast, and prepare the water,
water, water... Having drunk enough (it's impossible really),
you begin to prepare for start. I've fixed the time nesessary
to become ready to start - it's about the hour - only to dress.
The portaledge is hanging on the air, you can't touch the rock,
you have to begin to ascend on jumars immediately. .
climbed with all our equipment arsenal. There's hang rock, we
can't see our future route because of carnices, and above them
there are next carnices... We couldn't imagine that there're hanging
monolites at such altitude. But reality is so - you have to climb
with all your iron, because any thing would be nesessary.
cut your body from the portaledge with all this equipment and
climb - from santimeter to next santimeter in that thin air. The
relief is very difficult for climbing, you have to think how to
go further. You have to solve the problem of climbing through
the carnice. You climb on the crack, but it's ended - you have
to go further - think, my head, please....
climbed 3,5 pitches in 4 days and reset the portaledge at 7200
m. We descended in evening to reach it before the sunset. When
we descended to BC and rested one day there, Totmjanin and Pershin
climbed two more pitches on the Wall. So, we have 11 pitches at
the very difficult part of the route.
luck for all of you - and for us too. Ruchkin, May, 12, 20-21
half of the Wall have already been climbed.
The party Ruchkin- Mikhailov climbed one more pitch. They're descending
now, and the party Pershin-Totmjanin will begin to work at the
route tomorrow. 8 and a half vertical ropes are fixed above 7000
m. The weather is fine today. Doctor Mikhail Bakin.
May, 2004 Today
the party Ruchkin- Mikhailov climbed one more vertical pitch through
carnices. The weather: at 7000. it's clean , the wind isn't strong,
and it's cloudy at the base camp, but without snow. Congratulations
with the Victory Day! Doctor Mikhail Bakin.
May, 2004 Yesterday
guys fixed the portaledge at the end of ropes? and today the party
Ruchkin- Mikhailov set the record - climb the pitch through very
difficult rock. They're planning to climb firther tomorrow. There's
difficult part - snow cornices in 15 meters ahead. The weater's
fine today. What'll be tomorrow? All members are health. Doctor
May, 2004 Hello friends!
That last site which we climbed reminds very much the American
diretissima on Petit Dru or a combination of cruxes of Semiletkin,
Popenko and Bezzubkin's routes on Svobodnaya Korea. We have to
climb fixed ropes for three days up to 7000 m to continue the
work on the wall. We have two camps at 5600 m and 6700 m, i.e.
we spend the night in them and go further. The camp at 7000 m
has the special status: we live in it. He should be maximum comfortable
to have a rest and restore forces for working on extremely difficult
Our group spent all the day to cut out in ice a 2§2 meters platform
under a tent for Efimov's group. I have been on "7-thousand"
mountains for 35 times, but for the first time biwy organization
at 7000m took so much time and forces. A half of the tent is cut
in the slope and closed from above by 3§4m awning and dust avalanches
fly above, not causing harm. We have to climb via combined relief:
70- 90-degrees rocks with ice spanked block and rocky cornices.
For aid climbing we use universal rocky pitons of 2-5 mm, bent
channels of 3 different sizes, stoppers, friends and camalots.
Also we have unscrewed bolts for monolithic sites and sky hooks.
Ice sites of the wall represent firm ice spanked blocks of thickness
from meter up to several centimeters. We successfully use ice
screws, ice tools and ice fifi on them. If to count the weight
of clothes, footwear and crampons the leader has about 15 kg hanging
Free climbing in "Millet" footwear, warm multilayered
clothes and in gloves from Polartec is rather problematic. The
rocks are dry, but cold. Temperature is negative 15-20. While
the leader covered in sweat goes ahead, the belayer struggles
with cold. There are 5 pitches from camp at 7000 m prior to the
beginning of fixed ropes and we have to spend 4 hours to get there
since the morning.
The immediate task of the advanced group is to fix even two more
ropes and to hang up one more portaledge closer to the beginning
of fixed ropes. Today Bolotov's group is ahead. Mikhailov's group
and └lexander Odintsov ascended at 5600 m. The advanced two-man
team climbed 5 m of the cornice for this day and straightened
the fixed ropes: it makes easier to ascend, haul gear and will
save the time of ascent at least on one or one and a half of hour.
A bad consequence of our work at high altitude is constant cough.
The doctor prescribes different treatment in the base camp, including
inhalations with herbs. We have an electric inhaler, which effectively
helps to struggle with respiratory illnesses. One more problem
at such altitude is dehydration of organism. Morning and evening
consumption of liquid is obviously not enough.
The advanced two-man team takes a thermos on the wall, but they
can drink only on the top point of pitch, further the leader climbs
upper and works as a navvy up to the end of the working day without
drink. The basic drink is tea. " Princess Nuri " in
bags is well made in "boiled water" at 7000 m. Other
drinks are instant coffee, cocoa, juices and milk in different
combinations. In the base camp we would like to drink a beer and
fruit compotes. The wall furiously resists. But the team has a
Our greetings to everybody!
N. Totmyanin from the base camp.
Yesterday rather sad event happened. At a portaledge we had prepared
to haul and hung at 7000 meters, was pulled out one of 4 points
of fastening, and a strong wind broken the poles of a skeleton.
The spare complete set of poles will be lifted by Mikhailov's
group in 2 days. All this does not accelerate the ascent.
May, 2004 The two-man team Bolotov - Borisov continued
climbing the wall. They have made only one pitch for a day: our
ascent goes slowly. And the reasons are obvious: high altitude
(more than 7 000m) and a vertical wall with hanging sites.
Today there is good weather: sunny day, clean sky, but there is
a strong wind and it is rather cold. The hanging on the sun socks
washed in the morning, were frozen. Tomorrow M.Mikhailov and A.Odintsov's
group leaves the base camp at 5600. Our greetings to everybody
and the best regards. M.Bakin.
today seems better: there is overcast, but the sun periodically
appears in the sky. Till the afternoon there is snowing, but by
the evening it is more pleasant. In cloud breaks Jannu sometimes
appears, but we have not time to catch to see something in a telescope.
The spring does not want to come in these places. The landscape
reminds more likely in late autumn. Yellow grass, faded plants...
Mood is philosophical.
The two-man team Pershin - Totmyanin worked on the wall today.
Tomorrow they are going to be in the lead. And tomorrow from camp
at 6700 Bolotov's group will ascend up to 7000m.
We congratulate all of you on coming holidays. We would like to
wish all climbers who are making their ascents in mountains good
weather and success. Our separate wishes to Everest North Face
Russian expedition and Shisha-Pangma Saint Petersburg expedition.
My personally especial greetings to the doctors of the expeditions:
Sergey Bychkovsky and Boris Tereshchenko.
Jannu Base camp. M.Bakin.
party Pavlenko -Mikhailov continued fixing ropes. Having made
2,5 pitches for two days (it is higher than the top point of the
last autumn fixed ropes) the guys descended into the camp at 6700m.
Today Totmyanin's group ascended at 7000m. The whole day long
they were preparing a place for a tent as the portaledge is going
to be lifted from 7000 to the Wall upper. The base camp was visited
by the group from Ekaterinburg: Dmitry Frolenko, Andrey Krylov
and Jury Lutsak. Under the plan Bolotov's group starts working
on the Wall tomorrow, and Mikhailov's group descends to the base
camp. Weather holds unstable, but it allows us to continue our
2004 Mikhailov's group begins to work at the Wall today.
The party Ruchkin-Mikhailov
are working above 7200 m. They're planning to
climb upwards tomorrow. Totmjanin- Pershin are at 6700 today,
they'll climb to 7000 tomorrow. Odintsov is at 5600. The weather
isn't so bad today, good enough for Jannu. It's snowing periodically,
wind isn't so strong.
have built the snow girl in BC yestrday, she's very inpressive...
Bakin, April, 27
April - very bad weather. The portaledge was fixed at
7000 m, and the group Bolotov - Borisov - Kirievsky spent three
nights there, trying to climb upwards, but were refused by the
April, 2004 Pavlenko, Mikhailov and Ruchkin have descended
to BC. They reached 6800 and fixed the portaledge at 6700. Other
groups are going upwards to change them and work further.
April, 2004 Alexander Ruchkin from the Base Camp: Our
greetings to everybody,
Things are going well thus far, keep your fingers crossed!
are having acclimatization consecutively ascending upper and upper.
7.04 We began fixing the rope, the group Bolotov - Borisov - Kirievsky
restored the fixed rope up to 5100m, settled the intermediate
camp and stayed to spend the night there for acclimatization.
Next day they descended to the base camp for the rest. The other
members of our team did the full carry of the gear up to 5100m.
8.04 Our three-men team (Mikhailov-Pavlenko-Ruchkin) climbed 5100m
and spent the night there.
9.04 We climbed up to 5600 and lifted some gear for the following
work on the route.
10.04 We climbed a plateau, marked it with landmarks with tags
for orientation in fog.
There are some our trails from the last year expedition in places.
The winter seems low- snowed or strong winds have blown all the
snow: this year it is much less snow and the bergschrund became
lower on about 40 meters. The scrap of the rope hung above the
present bergschrund. As all the snow was blown away and frozen
during the winter and the clear ice was opened: rigid winter ice
in which hardly to set ice screws. The ropes particularly remained,
but nobody dares to risk and to climb on them. We have to use
tools for climbing and use a jumar belaying on last year's ropes.
They, certainly, are torn, and we change them on the new ones.
Our group ascended up to 5800 m, making 5 pitches and descended
to 5600m to spend the second night at this altitude.
11.04 We descended to the base camp to have a rest. Odintsov -
Prilepa acclimatized at 5100m and climbed lifting the gear up
to 5600 for the further acclimatization.
The group Bolotov - Borisov-Kirievsky ascended 5600m, and the
same day Pershin and Totmyanin went from 5600m and fixed 5 pitches
more on the ice up to the altitude of 6000 meters.
This is all the news for the present about our work on the route.
pictures - on Russian page
second expedition of Russian climberss to the North Face of Jannu
peak: the challenge is thrown down
exact number of expeditions to the North Face is still unknown.
In October 2003 a new record was set up by Russian climbers, participants
to the unique mountaineering project ?Big Walls - Russian routesŽ
under the guidance of Alexander Odintsov, international degree
Master of Sports. For whole eight years now those sportsmen have
been paving the exclusive ?Russian RoutesŽ along the most famous
walls of the world.
route of climbing that is based on fragmentary data obtained from
the previous expeditions had to be corrected at site: its first
third is a constantly moving and changing its relief icefall.
On the 12th of September Mikhail Mikhaylov - one of the expedition
participants - was caught by the icefall. Later on the team-s
leader Alexander Odintsov got a hand injury. Under severe frost
conditions, without oxygen masks on, through avalanches, the five
Russian alpinists have managed to climb up to an altitude of 7200
meters. There were only 510 meters left to the top. But the weather
had got very bad, and it is absolutely useless to rival with the
monsoon outbreak. The team took the only correct decision to close
the expedition having the equipment preserved on the mountain
so as to come back onto Jannu in March next year.
alpinists do not consider their doubtless record to be the absolute
victory they have been striving for. Only the completely laid
?RussainŽ route could have satisfied them. The entry list of ?Panasonic
v Jannu North Face v IIŽ expedition has changed, and the sports
potential of the team has been strengthened by three high-skilled
alpinists. According to the preliminary Odintsov-s plans, the
way up to the 7000 altitude mark should take no more than fourteen
days. If so, the guys will have had enough strength reserved to
climb onto the plumb North Face. The way of 710 meters may also
takes about two weeks.
it was in Autumn 2003, the general sponsor of the expedition has
become Panasonic. The primary logistics provider of the expedition
is traditionally represented by BASK
team started to Kathmandu on the 24th of March 2004. Starting
from that day on, the attention of the world alpinist community
will be keenly drawn to the region of the East Himalayas.
climb: part1. Icefall
to the Base Camp
on Khan Tengri