Urubko: Baruntse will be the first, Annapurna - the second...
this Spring season one of the strongest high-altitude
climbers Denis Urubko (Kazakstan) is
planning to do two first climbs in Himalaya via new
routes - to Baruntse and Annapurna. Simone Moro,
his old friend will be his partner in this expedition.
They have already worked together on the slopes of Lhotse,
Everest, Nanga Parbat, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaja Peak,
Comminism Peak and Khan Tengri.
Photo: Russianclimb, Almaty, March 2004
(8091 m). It was the first 8000-er which was climbed (in 1950),
it has the minimum successful climbs among the Himalaya giants.
Future route (green line) - almost 2 km of snow face with
minimum of relief.
May, 2004 DENIS REACHED THE SUMMIT OF
ANNAPURNA AT NIGHT!
Moro: Hi. Yesterday and today were very particular
days. Yesterday afternoon (29.05.04) during we were at camp
4, our friends communicate us, that Boris get lost and didn’t
reached camp 2. Denis and I thought that he is finished in
a crevasse and so we planed to descent with the first light
for help. But we didn’t want to not try summit, so we did
at 9 p.m. for a night summit attempt. While we was going up,
we heard that Boris get only lost in the seracs and that at
least he find the way to camp 2. It became night and cold
and my debilitated stomach begin to rebel….. So at least at
7900/8000 at 11 p.m. and 1 ? hour from summit I have to give
up my attempt….. Denis did good work and reached the summit
with darkness and cold.
Ciao Simone, May, 30.
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Hi. This night I had a big
problem with my stomach and so we decided to continue on the
normal route. Now we are in camp IV at 7300 meters and this
night at 1 o’clock Denis and I will start for our summit attempt.
Only this morning when we met our friends we resolved a mistery.
Boris, our 70 years old member, yesterday turned early to
summit. The others tried to cry to him, but he didn’t hear
them. So he continued alone on the wrong way and at least
he reached the 8051 m of central summit, alone, without oxygen
and with only one iceaxe (This summit is reached only 3 times
in history!). He was sure to be the only one who reached the
summit and only this morning when Denis explained him in Russian
he did understand. He was so sad…..
Ciao follow us also tomorrow
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Hi, we arrived in camp 3 at
6900 meters. It's very deep snow and it was very dangerous…
I only not turned back, because the other part of the team
is without gas and food. So we bring up… This night we will
decide what to do. We will valuate our physical performance,
the weather forecast and the snow situation.
Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka reached
summit today at 4 p.m. without supplement oxygen! Ciao
till tomorrow Simone
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Hi. Today Denis and I did
start at 3 a.m. from BC and reached camp 2 in about 5 hours.
Ralf, Gerlinde, Hirotaka and Boris reached 7200 meters, there
normally is camp 4. Tomorrow they will attempt the summit,
while we will go to button of the rocky part. They have very
few food and gas and so we will leave some of these between
camp 2 and 3 for their back. Ciao Simone
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Today is the second and last
day of rest and wait here in base camp. Tomorrow at 4:30 I
and Denis will start and go directly to camp 2 at 6000 meters.
The day after we will start to open our new route on the rock
bastion and the days after directly to the summit through
Gerlinde, Ralf, Hirotaka and Boris did start at 6:30 a.m.
to reach camp 3 at 7000 meters on the normal route. Tomorrow
they will try the summit push. The clouds are already in the
sky but the visibility at present (9:50 a.m.) is still good.
Tomorrow should start the 3-4 days good weather and we hope
that the forecast will be without mistake....Ciao
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Trusting in the weather forecast
and in our instinct we decided to return in base camp today
and here we are now. We will remain only 48 hours. We will
recover our energy and Denis will resolve his problem with
"diarrhoea" Gerlinde, Ralf, Hirotaka and Boris remained
at C2 and today they will work in fixing ropeû in the last
part of the icefall. Tomorrow they would like to reach C3
at 7000 meters. From there they will try summit. We had been
sorry to left C2 without helping our friends in fixing work
but we were worry for avalanche danger and Denis physical
problem. We still want to open a new route and we need energy
and good weather as much as possible. Our friends understood
our position and they had been friendly with us when we left
them this morning at 5:30 a.m.
Simone & C.
May, 2004 Simone Moro:
we stayed here in camp II and the weather is really bad. The
last 3 hours it is snowing. Today also Ralf, Gerlinde, Boris
and Hirotaka reached camp II. Ralf and Hirotaka today stay
better. Boris forgot the tent poles in BC and so last night
he slept in a tent pitched by bamboo…. Fortunately we had
one more tent here in camp II, so we have 3 tents…! Tomorrow
Ralf, Gerlinde, Boris and Hirotaka want to reach camp III,
while Denis and I go to the rocky pillar. Today we will receive
the weather forecast from Innsbruck and hope in good news,
because only last night I counted more than 30 avalanches….
Bye till tomorrow Simone and Co
, 2004 Simone Moro:
We did start only today from BC, because the weather was so
bad. Denis and I did start at 3 a.m. from BC at 4200 meters
and reached after 10 hours fighting camp II at 6000 meters.
We had snow till our knees and so we have to break trail.
Finally we risked to not find the camp, because there was
so many fog…. Ralf, Gerlinde, Hirotaka and Boris did stop
at camp I, because Ralf has been hid by one stone on his leg
and Hirotaka has problems with his stomach. So they will decide
tomorrow morning if to continue or not. Also Denis has some
problem with his stomach, but not so bad. Tomorrow morning
Denis and I will decide if continue to 7000 meters, where
begins the rocky part or if stay one more day in camp II for
rest after this hard work in the snow…
Bye till tomorrow
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Today morning Ralf, Gerlinde
and Hirotaka arrived here with a double helicopter flight.
The team is completed and only Ed Viesturs and Veikka cancelled
their participation because involved in the Everest Film Project
second flight of today with Gerlinde and Hirotaki had been
made with bad visibility and the pilot remained 1 hour with
the helicopter off, here in Base Camp. Than he flew back to
Pokhara in a short moment of good weather. Today we decided
the route and teams for climb. Ralf and Gerlinde + Boris and
Hirotaka will climb classical French route. I and Denis will
try a new central route direct to the summit.....
We want to start tomorrow even the rain and clouds of this
afternoon can cause one day delay.
Simone Moro, May 21
May, 2004 Simone Moro: It's raining since 24 hours
till 5000 meters. We are quite worry that all this rain here,
it means quite snow in the upper part of the mountain and
increase the danger of our climb..... but we know that nature
follow its roules....
Today we received the phone call from Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka
that they were in airport ready to fly here by helicopter
but the bad weather stopped the project of the team. Tomorrow
they will try again and we will keep in touch for the weather
Ciao Simone & friends
May, 2004 Denis Urubko: Hi! What has happened with
Alex (Bolotov, on Jannu – ed note)? How is he? That’s a pity,
that he can not continue - I know, what for he has gone there,
refusing from all other opportunities. Send him my regards,
and from Simone and Boris too! Let he not be sad. And to guys
on Jannu - good luck and, for God's sake, let will be accurater!
Mike with Ruchkin and the others. Eventually – the mountain
do according our plan, only I think now, how Simone and me
can climb a new route?! All our partners have refused from
this expedition. Ed Viesturs on the Everest, and Ralf had
been injured by the stone on Shisha Pangma. It’s the truth,
we have not yet received the final refusal from Gerlinde and
the Japanese climber. Boris has helped us at Khali -Himal,
and he’s hard aspired on Annapurna. It’s not his fault, that
partners have refused to support us... And how can we left
him? We can't tell – excuse us, Boris, climb alone... Probably,
it is necessary to climb the classic route. I can’t find the
decision. I has arrived on 8000-er for a new route for the
first time, and I can not climb it. Boukreev would understand
me. And I heard that the monsoon is already in Bengal bay
and it’ll come for one week earlier... Shortly, everything
is against us.
16-th we went up from base camp with icecrews and 250 m of
a ropes. There was a place of Camp 1 at 5000 m, above the
first icefall. There’s a moraine under rocks, water, warm
and beautiful view of the top part of mountain. Next day we
have crossed a plateau of a glacier and have begun to climb
along the second icefall. It wasn’t so dangerous, as below,
but we had to leave 150 m of a rope for the descent. We set
our Camp 2 at 5900 – at the place like 5 football fields.
We were acclimatized well - felt fine. The route through icefalls
is more difficult, than it looks from the bottom of the mountain.
Or there’re this year conditions? On the third icefall it
appeared that our equipment wasn’t enough – we could go up,
but the descent can be dangerous and long. Shortly, we have
fixed all our ropes, and rappeled from 6250-6300. Than we
spent night at 5900, and today we got up at 4 a.m., and by
9.10 we arrived to base, having lost almost 2 kms of height.
The vegetation became more active during our absence. The
battle with a phalanx who has got accustomed in my tent, was
finished by a drawn game. It has hidden somewhere, fortunately,
not inside the tent. There’s "the country of waterfalls
" around us. Fluffy clouds are going up from the valley,
and fall as warm spicy rains soon... There’s like in a fairy
tale. I has also shaved with the warm water.:)
place looks like the special one for feats and honeymoons.
I can imagine, what the members of French expedition in 1950
felt here. Fantastics! And I also can imagine how they came
back! Heroes, who could touch forbidden snows of the Goddess
of Fertility. Annapurna, here you are...
All right, be healthy, greetings for Everest North Face expedition
climbers. Denis, May, 19, 14-42
Moro: It had been a great pleasure to arrive again
in base camp. Annapurna is dangerous and complicate mountain
and any climber feel worry during this climb.
Yesterday we stopped our ascent of 7000 meters because we
finished fixing ropes around 6300. We descent to 6000 meters
and spent a second night there. Now we will take rest for
3 days and than we will make the summit push carrying 200
meters of rope.
The weather today is bad and we hope to have a nice window
of good weather next week... we need...
Simone & C.
ìàÿ, 2004 Simone Moro: Hello. Today
we got up at 5 a.m. and we started at 7 a.m. We reached 6250
meters, but our fix ropes and icecrews ended on the last serrac.
We needed 200 meters of ropes more, not so important for going
up, but for the descending. We will spend one more night here,
so also Boris can acclimatize. Than we'll go down to base
camp and take 3 days rest. Denis and I have to give up our
project to open a new route, because nobody else from our
expedition reached the base camp (Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner,
Ralf, etc. and we can not leave Boris alone on the French
Bye till tomorrow with new pictures. Simone, May 18
May, 2004 Simone Moro: (late morning)
We are in camp II at 5900 m. We settled our tent 100 m lower
than usually, because here is more safely. Today it's incredible
hot. We are all ok and tomorrow we will climb to camp III.
We are happy to hear about the success from our friends: Nives,
Romano and Luca (Lhotse), Inaki Ochoa, Joby Ogwyn and Alex
(Makalu) and Ed Viesturs (Everest).
Bye till tomorrow
Simone & Co.
are now in camp 1 at 5000 m. It took us 5 hours, because our
rucksacks were very heavy, about 30 kg each. Also we had to
find a way between the mouren and the glacier. The weather
is good and the condition of the mountain also. There is not
so many snow, but today stone and ice always fall down ….
Tomorrow we will reach 6000 meters and look better at the
pillar we want to climb. Bye and follow us also tomorrow
Simone, May 16, evening
May, 2004 Denis Urubko: Salam-popolam! Yes, in that
season Russians doing well, at last! It's wonderful. My greetings
and luck wishes to Alexey Bolotov and all the team! (On Jannu
- ed. note) I'm placing a bet for their success. We can only
be in envy of their drive. We are doing things more simple.
Today we are climbing up, to break a trail and prepare the
descent route. The weather's normal, so we have chance to
make it. We have now to ascend to 7000-7100 and spend the
night there. We climb in a three-men team: Simone, Boris Korshunov
and me. The Mount is beautiful from this side. It rises 4000
m above us. Pilots have brought us to 4100, where base camp
is, and it's a pleasure to live here - grass, bushes. It's
picturesque and warm. I think, our speed will be followed
by success. An American Boukreev's Fund gave me the grant
for this climb. I want to climb Annapurna in memory of Anatoly
Boukreev who died there.
That's all, I go to pack my rucksack, and - upwards! Good
luck! Denis, May16, 8-23
Moro: we start!!
Today I, Denis and Boris will start for 4 days on the mountain.
Our objective is to reach 700/7100 meters and to set camp
3. Than we will come back to base camp for a 2 days rest and
then the summit attempt. We will see if is possible to find
a new line for a new route or if the danger advise us to follow
the french or duch route.
Follow us. Simone, May, 16, 8-38
May, 2004 (evening): Today we arrived to Annapurna
Base Camp flying by helicopter The altitude of BC is 4150
mt and the summit is...4000 meters upper..
The mountain is beautiful and it looks big an dangerous. Fortunatly
there is not so much snow....
The helicopter we used had been payed by Franco Acerbis, one
of my sponsor, and he also came here with us this morning.
Now he went back to Kathmandu and he will go to Everest region
to get acclimatisation, than he will return here and will
stay till the end of expedition. Yesterday one hotel in Pokhara
had been bombing by Maoists and we was only 300 meters far.....
Tomorrow I, Denis and Boris will climb up as much as we can
to establish our camps.....
Here we are again after 10 days silence. During this time
we went back to Lukla and than to Kathmandu. We met Miss Hawley,
the famous journalist 80 years old, who was very excited and
interested in our climb. She told us that she is tired to
make standard reports about so many expeditions on normal
routes of 8000 or classic 6000 meters. We did this kind of
climb but we also became tired about that style and since
2 years we started our difficult but exciting way and style
Today we are in Pokhara and tomorrow we will fly by Russian
helicopter MI17 to Base camp of Annapurna north side. The
captain of the helicopter Alexander became immediately friendly
with us and tomorrow at 6:00 a.m. we will start... Two days
ago my friend and Sponsor Franco Acerbis arrived from Italy
(www.acerbis.com) who gave us the possibility to have the
helicopter to go up and back at the end of expedition. Big
Luck....!!!! He will go to Khumbu valley to get an acclimatisation
and than he will come back to base camp to follow the last
days of our climb.
So be ready! The adventure is starting again....
Simone & C.
(7129 m) is located in Himalaya between Lhotse and Makalu.
It's climbed mostly via classic route (first climb -
in 1954 by British mountaineers). It's very interesting
object for climbers now. Here's the North Face of the
Bruno Tassi will climb with us.
It had been very difficult, very... but at the end
using all our capicities and resistance we reached our objective.
The north face of Khali Himal or Baruntse is realy big, vertical,
dangerous, impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only
the ices of the trekkers and climbers had been dreamed a climb
on that wall after looking the mountain.
We knew that we have to use all our capicities and strenght
to have success on that face.
And it happened..... We strugled four days and nights against
wind, could, mix climb, ice and rocks. We had bivy 4 days
in three people in a tent of two... We never finded place
to set it good and only our legs hanging in devoid..
Ice crew, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been
used to climb the complicate wall, but the real stuggle had
been against the wind and cold. We get 35 m/sec (120 Km/h)
wind during all the climb and also on the summit!!!
We had been very happy to reach the summit via this new and
first route and it took us 12 hours to come down from the
mountain rapelling on a single ice crew for 20 times.....
name of the route is “Ciao Patrick” because we dedicated the
climb to Patrick Berault recently dead. It was our friend
Now we will have rest and than we will fly to Annapurna I
8091 m for a new challenge.
Thank you to follow us
May, 2004 SUMMIT!!!
Bruno Tassi (camos) summited.... he fighted till summit and
was also great...so all three. Now they are in tent and everything
is ok.... they were great. Barbara, 13-32
Moro: SMS at 1:45 Italian time: “We are starting
now. There is sun and the wind is acceptable.”
Call at 7 a.m. Italian time: “I’ on the summit. I've reached
just now the north summit of Baruntse, the Khali Himal at
7041 m. Denis is coming soon and also Camos will reach the
summit. The wind is very strong. The ridge to the main summit
seems not so difficult, but the wind is so strong, we risk
to be blown away…. Today is the birthday of Camos. I’m very
satisfied. You'll hear us again, when I’m back in the tent.
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Hello
Here we are again. Today it was an incredible hard day. We've
got up at 2 o’clock in the night and started with tent and
everything at 3 o’clock, and only now, at 7 o’clock p.m. we
arrived at the ridge. We climbed all the day, we never stopped,
not for drinking, not for eating…. The face was very steep
and the climbing was very difficult and mostly in rocky and
icy part. All the day there was strong wind and so it was
very cold also when the sun was shining. Some friends called
us from the other base camps, because they were worried about
us. But everything is ok now. Tomorrow we want to go to the
north summit, the Khalima and than we will decide if continue
to Baruntse main summit or if go back. It depends from the
weather and how long we take to Khalima.
Follow us also tomorrow
Simone, Denis and Camos (via satellite phone)
May, 2004 Simone Moro:
friends This night we slept very badly, because the 2-persons
tent is really too small for tree people. This morning Denis
and Camos started to resolve the last difficult part. After
very delicate rocky and mixed climbing they are now in snow
at 6300 meters and Denis is crossing from left to right side.
The wind is not so strong as yesterday, but it persists to
blow. Tomorrow we want to start definitely to summit, but
we are worried about the wind. Also we can't stay too long
here in tent, because our gas will finish soon… Ciao till
tomorrow Simone & Co.
May, 2004 Simone Moro: Hello
(first call via satphone)
Denis and I arrived just now in camp 1 at 6200 meter. We prepared
the tent which Denis and Boris took down for avoid to be destroyed
by the wind and the snow. Today all the fixed ropes were covered
by half-meter snow, only the fixed ropes in the rocky part
were free. Now Denis and I will try to continue a little more
on the difficult rocky part before reaching the snow part.
here we are again. Now we three stay in the tent, preparing
food. Denis and I climbed 20 meters more and I think there
are 20 meters more of very difficult climb before arriving
on snow, but now there is storm. Tomorrow, if the weather
wants, we will continue.
Follow us Simone & Co
April , 2004 Simone Moro: It start to snow again
and this time more than the other days. This morning we decided
to prepare our equipment because tomorrow we would like to
make our summit attempt, but the weather "heard"
our plans and it started to snow.... As you see from the photo
I just made (at 4:00 p.m.) we have a bad situation again and
we have only to wait,wait,wait. The weather forecast said
that till 1st of May the conditions will not change and so
we are ready to continue our boring wait. I think tomorrow
and after we will remain here because the avalanche danger
is higher in this days on the wall. We will inform you tomorrow
what we will do.... Ciao
Simone & C.
April , 2004 Simone Moro:
Friends. Today is the eighth day of bad weather. It continues
to be cloudy and sometime it start to snow. Now we are tired
to continue to get restand hope in some changes. But we have
no choice. We have to wait the blue sky and the sun because
all the mountain are covered of fresh snow and Baruntse too...
The section we have to climb before to touch the summit, are
3 big plates of ice covered by dangerous snow. We don't want
to increase the danger of our climb and die for it. The heroes
are only in TV and in the book and our icy face and life has
to remain in the realty and not in a ephic tragic strory...
So we have to be patient and wait for the good weather. I
and Denis Today came back to base camp after 2 days spent
in Chhkung at 4700 meter. Camos and Boris will come tomorrow
here after the last day in a warm and clean lodge.
April , 2004 Simone Moro:
snowing since 3 days and since 3 days Denis and Boris were
working on the face. Yestreday they have fixed 100 meters
of rope (rock and mixed climbing). Today they were remaining
in the tent at 6100 m the whole day and communicated us by
radio that they started to come down at 4.p.m. Now they should
be in ABC and tomorrow here in base camp. In the next report
I will send you the photo of the 3 days storm.....Simone,
April,24, 18-54 p.m.
April , 2004 Simone Moro:
are again in base camp after 3 nights spent outside the BC
(2 in the face and one in ABC). Yesterday had been a real
difficult day for the worst weather condition of the month
and for the high technical difficulties climbed on the rocky
part of the face.
Dry tooling, mix climbing, low visibility and 10 cm of fresh
snow, had been the ingredients of the last day spent on the
north face of Baruntse. We climbed (Camos and I) 70% of the
most difficult and technical part of our route.Tomorrow Denis
and Boris will cimb on the fix rope and resolve the last 30
% of the high difficulties before reaching the ice plateau
at 6300 meters.They also will move the tent I fixed at 5900,
higher... Than they will come back and after rest we (Camos,
Denis and I) will start for the summit attempt, climbing the
last 800 meter of face in alpine style.
Follow us....Simone & C:
April , 2004 Denis Urubko: Hi!
I can't predict the outcome of our plans, only report what
has happened in the last day. Early morning yesterday Boris
and I were heading up the wall, in spite of the hurricane
in Himalaya. Throughout all night we had heard terrible rumble
from Lhotse. Then the wind descended at Baruntse too. Continuing
from where we had
stopped last time, at 5650 m, we climbed up through the snow-icy
couloirs. Snow avalanches dusted from above down to the bottom
of the mountain, then rising in clouds back up to the sky
again. Lucky, BASK windproof works well. Occasionally rocks
fell down through the mist.
calm and persistence impressed me. On an icy part, where the
steepness reached 75-80 degrees, I was shaken up and asked
him: "Are you tired? Should we go down?" But he
only smiled and answered me, that there're still 150 m of
rope left in his backpack. I said to him: "All Russia
look at you".
At about 5900 m we reached a small ridge, and fixed more rope
before 5 p.m. All in all we fixed 400 m and climbed till 5950
m. In the evening we returned to ABC on wobbly legs, dead
tired. "Good work today" said Boris to my big surprise.
And two hours ago
we finally returned to BC. Tomorrow, Simone and Bruno will
go up. We hope the wind will cease - it scutches mountains
at the altitude. Here're our news.
April 16, 9-51.
April , 2004
plans has been changed. Not about the route but about the
process. After a detailed check of the Face we decided to
abort our daring dream to do it alpine style. In short, our
acclimatization isn't enough now, so we'll work safe and not
so fast. Korshunov and me couldn't find the way at the icefall,
and Simone decided to climb with previous preparation of the
route. Yesterday (April,13) we climb the couloir near the
rock bastion and reached the altitude 5650 m. The wall is
great, and inspires the great respect in all of us.
Simone climbed rocky steps by drytooling. Working with iceaxes
on the ice, he and Bruno have fixed 330 m of ropes. Korshunov
and me have brought equipment. We are getting accostomed that
we'll live at this wall. If the weather won't change, I and
Boris will climb tomorrow till the middle part of the mount.
looked at the birds (ulars) which were going around our tents,
and proved us that all're rational in the nature, and tomorrow
two birds will be here instead of one. But Bruno answered:
"We have only thought about eating of this birds, and
the weather turned worse. But what will be if we'll do it?"
Ulars are assumed as the sacred birds here. It's not also
recommended to burn the rubbish before the end of the expedition:
gods can give you what they got from you.
always black clouds on Lhotse Face, and we don't understand
when the good weather is there. Theese clouds cover Baruntse
from time to time - we feel uncomfortable that periods.
I'll write something in 3-4 days. Greetings from Simone.
are back to base camp after first day spent on the face. We
fixed 350 meters of rope in the first complicate part and
we reached 5650 m. We belived it was easy snow slope but we
had to climb on mix part and traverse big crevasses. We are
not yet acclimatised and for that reason we will continue
to fix rope on the face and come back in the evening. We planned
to fix 800-1000 meters of rope and than continue in alpine
style. The weather is cloudy expecially in the second part
of the day. Simone
April , 2004 Hi! How's our Kazakhstan team?
left to right: Denis, Boris, Simone, Bruno.
OK. We set the Base Camp April6 at 5100. We can see the South
Face of Lhotse from here. It's too far from our base to the
Face - it's in the next gorge, and it takes us 2 hours to
reach it. We set ABC April 7 at 5250 m, and yesterday I together
with Boris Korshunov brought loads to ABC. We just desided
that we'll probably reset our ABC 400 m East, more close to
the route we choose.
North-West Face of Baruntse is impressive. The altitude diiference-
from 5400 till 7050, is 1650 m. The kind of rocks is very
strange here, but I'm sure, hooks will be safe. According
our plan, we'll climb in alpine style after the acclimatization.
have the time till the end of April. I'm lucky, that Boris
Korshunov is here. In spite of his age, he's in such a great
shape that I can't keep up with him! He acclimatizes here
before the Annapurna climb, and tells me a lot of old mountaineering
stories. Unfortunately he lost all his luggage, including
the sponsored gear from BASK, so we shared with him what we
day before yesterday I had planned to rest, but ended up doing
a rescue instead. Our cook became very ill. The kitchen boy
and I carried him down and I gave him a lot of pills. He's
in the valley now - from there porters helped him to reach
the village. All our members (Simone, Boris, Bruno and Barbara)
were at Khala Pattar on acclimatization.
(Simone's wife. They had married the day before the expedition
and spent their honeymoon in Himalaya - ed note) goes back
to Italy today. New cook Biby went to our Base Camp from Namche
Bazaar. Simone and Bruno will now bring loads to ABC, and
probably also reset the camp to the new place.
April 10, 14-24
ìàðòà, 2004 Hi!
in Kathmandu. I'm very tired and sad about Kazakhstan: I had
difficulties with passport control in Almaty airport. Here
I met the Russian team (Jannu expedition): Ruchkin, Mikhailov,
Bolotov... So, I'm not alone. They are my good friends, as
you know. Today morning we run here at the hills, and are
resting now. They're crazy, my friends...
Denis, 28 March, 13-05
March, 2004 Simone
started to Kathmandu from Italy.
Denis started to Kathmandu from Almaty.
route we planned before the expedition.