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Maˇ 2004 news

31 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. DENIS URUBKO SUMMITED ANNAPURNA AT NIGHT! CONGRATULATIONS!

31 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: TODAY at 9-15 LOCAL TIME PIOTR KUZNETSOV, EUGENY VINOGRADSKY and GLEB SOKOLOV SUMMITED!!!

30 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: SUMMIT!!!! TODAY AT 10-00 LOCAL TIME PAVEL SHABALINE, ILJAS TUKHVATULLIN AND ANDREW MARIEV REACHED THE TOP OF EVEREST VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH WALL.

30 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Boris Korshunov reached Annapurna summit, but another Annapurna...

30 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: The second night at 8600!!!

29 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: Shabaline's group spent night at 8600 in small tent without sleeping bags

28 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis and Simone reached Camp 3 at 6900. Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka summited Annapurna via classic route!

28 May , 2004 Serguey Borisov, Nickolay Totmjanin and Gennady Kirievsky summited Jannu! We congratulate the team and all who believed in their success!

28 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: Shabaline's group is at 8300, Kuznetsov's group - at 7800. All are ready to summit bid.

27 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Pavlenko - Ruchkin have already descended to Base Camp.

May 27, 2004 In memory of Vladimir Bashkirov...

26 May , 2004 JANNU NORTH FACE HAS BEEN CLIMBED!
Today Alexander Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko reached the top. The party Borisov-Kirievsky is planning to summit tomorrow. The ascent of other climbers depends on the weather next days. The first party is already at 7400

25 May 2004 Two members of the expedition of Russian Adventure Team - Davide D'Angelo and Marshal Ulrich (both the Americans) summited Everest today. Congratulations!

25 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: The weather turned from bad to extremely bad...

25 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis and Simone descended to base camp

25 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: Damir Molgachev-Artjom Rychkov are back in Camp 3 - they didn't summit.

25 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Bolotov, overgoing the pain and doupts ascended yesterday to CAmp 5600.

24 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition:The party Molgachev-Rychkov is in Camp 4 and they will attempt their summit bid tomorrow. VLADISLAV TERZYUL IS MISSING AFTER HE SUMMITED MAKALU TOGETHER WITH JAY SIEGER

24 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: the party Ruckin-Pavlenko climbed 60 meters more... If to look at a photo, the upper end of the fixed ropes is at the left and above the big snow stain under top

24 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall (evening) the final push began. Shabaline's group has reached C2 (7200) Their task is to summit Everest.

24 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. All climbers are in Camp 2.

24 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The weather is bad... It's no visibility. "Siberia" has descended.

24 May, 2004 Today at 11.15 a.m. Alexander Abramov summited Everest! In this season he's the first Russian who has climbed Everest. Congratulations!

23 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: the party Ruckin-Pavlenko climbed about 80 meters... The altitude about 7700 m has been reached. "Everyone who can hold the gan" go upward.

23 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis and Simone started to Annapurna today only because of bad weather

22 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: next 30 meters...

22 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: May, 20 the party Pivtsov-Zhumayev summited Makalu via Paragot ridge at 9-50 local time in pure visibility conditions. Congratulations!

22 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis and Simone started today morning to climb the new route, Boris Korshunov, Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka - via classic route.

21 May, 2004 Annapurna: Serguey Bogomolov with the team led by Piotr Pustelnik (Bonington's route), , were forced to go down to Camp I. There was a terrible storm with heavy snowfalls. The Camp II was ruined within 2 hours. The expedition is over

21 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Yesterday party Ruchkin-Mikhailov could climbed 30 meters above 7500 for 10 hours.

20 May, 2004 The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Today it was snowing all the day long above, and visibility was maximum 40-50 meters at 8400m...

20 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. There's a chance that Ralf, Gerlinde and Hiroata will come to BC and climb Annapurna with Simone and Denis

20 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Yesterday Mikhailov's group ascended the latest highest camp: the portaledge at 7400m. If weather permit, today the guys plan to continue climb above 7500

20 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Kuznetsov's group reached 8400 m.

19 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition.Denis Urubko: I can imagine, what the members of French expedition in 1950 felt here. Fantastics! And I also can imagine how they came back! Heroes, who could touch forbidden snows of the Goddess of Fertility. Annapurna, here you are...

19 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Happy Birthday to Piotr!

19 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Doctor Bakin"s letter about the situation in Jannu team.

18 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. The guys are at 6250 m now

18 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: some datails from May, 17

18 May, 2004 Cho Oyu Ukraine Expedition: Serguey Bershov and Igor Svergun summited Cho Oyu May 15 at 7 a.m. Congratulations!

18 May, 2004 Yergaki-2004: the All-Russia Mountaineering Championship (Rock class). Region images.

17 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall We ask all climbers near Everest summit: please, do not dump empty oxygen cylinders downwards. There're people working at the Wall!

17 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: Three days ago Molgachev, Brodsky, Rychkov set Camp 4 at 7800 m. The wall has been already climbed, the team reached the "roof" and attempted the summit, but was failed because of strong winds and hard work in previuos day. Pivtsov and Zhumayev are going up to camp 4.

17 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: The vanguard group every day leaves in "free space" and vins meter behind meter from a vertical wall. The psychological shock from the first acquaintance to a wall has passed.

17 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. The guys are at 5900 v now

16 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis Urubko: I want to climb Annapurna in memory of Anatoly Boukreev who died there.

15 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Climbers have arrived to Annapurna base camp

15 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall (evening) The team reached 8270 m.

15 May, 2004 Congratulations to Byelorussian climbers Mikhail Melnikov, Victor Lutov and Anatoly Lutov who summited Cho Oyu May,8 at 2 p.m. (classic route)!

15 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The team climbs above 8000 m. Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev have fixed some ropes at the bastion. Their task now - to set the tent at 8400. They work without supplementary oxygen.

15 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: Totmjanin- Pershin climbed some pitches more and reached the black rock zone which crosses the wall, and climbed 15 m above it. The portaledge is at 7400.

14 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: It's incredible wall, may be, it's the most difficult wall at such altitude. But we climb it, and there is already not so far from the summit.

13 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: "We are praying to all Gods...", - called from the Base Camp Alexander Odintsov. Nickolay Totmjanin and Mikhail Pershin are working at 7500 m

13 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall Photogallery

12 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: 11 pitches above 7000 m, the portaledge has been set at 7200 m. The team decided to give back their tickets from Kathmandu to Moscow for May, 26, stay at the mount and climb till the summit... or till the beginning of the monsoon.

12 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall In 2 days Shabaline's group will start fixing the difficult bottom part of the bastion from 8000m.

12 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: the team works at the key part of the Paragot ridge - between 7500 and 7800 meters.

11 May , 2004 Jannu North Face Expedition: The half of the Wall have already been climbed. Ruchkin- Mikhailov descended yesterday, and the party Pershin-Totmjanin began to work at the route today morning. 8 and a half vertical ropes are already fixed above 7000 m

11 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall The team's working at the key part of the route - the climb of it will definite the expedition's success.

7 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: Camp 3 was installed at 7400 m.

5 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall During past days winds have destroyed three tents and the mess-tent. Our goal is to set one more camp. The team has reached 7600-7800 m altitude (in the different estimate) We need the camp at 8500m!

4 May , 2004 CONGRATULATIONS TO DENIS URUBKO, BRUNO TASSI AND SIMONE MORO who have summited BARUNTSE (the north summit Khali Himal 7041 m) via the new route May,4 at 11-00

3 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. After incredible hard work today Denis, Simone and Bruno have reached the ridge...

2 May, 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall All team is in BC - there's hurricane on the M. Everest

2 May , 2004 Baruntse-Annapurna Expedition. Denis, Bruno and Simone are in the tent at 6200. Denis and Bruno have climbed difficult rocky part and reached snow part. Summit bid will begin tomorrow.

Mountaineering
World's news

 

27 May, 2004 K2 Italian Jubelee expeditiom: May,24 at 09.40 a.m. local time Alessandro Busca, Claudio Bastrentaz, Karl Unterkircher and Mario Merelli reached the summit of Everest without oxygen from camp III, 8300 m. May, 25 Tarcisio Bell˛, Marco Confortola and one sherpa have reached the summit using oxygen.

26 May, 2004 British services Makalu - have taken the decision to abandon any attempt of reaching the summit - the extremely unstable condition of the ridges and slopes and the current and forecast poor weather conditions forced them to do it.

20 May, 2004 Two Bulgarians climbed Everest without oxygen. Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov ascended via classic route from North.

19 May, 2004 Norbert Joos summited Lhotse, Saturday, May 15th. - it's his 12th 8000 meter peak.

18 May, 2004 May,16 the member of Lithuanian Shisha Pangma Expedition Mindaugas Leskauskas reached the Main summit at 14-30.

17 May, 2004 Italians Nives Meroi, Luca Vuerich and Romano Benet summited Lhotse yesterday.

16 May, 1975 Japanese lady climber Junko Tabei is the first woman to climb Everest.

16 May, 2004 The Navarrese climber Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has summitted Makalu today morning at 10.40 Nepal Time. Alex Txikon was a bit behind Inaki. Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo at 11.45 Nepal time about one hour from the summit. www.mounteverest.net

16 May, 2004 Eric Simonson corrected the information who was the first on Everest this year: Lama Jangbu Sherpa from the Discovery Team.

15 May, 2004 Ray Yeritsian stopped his push for the summit of
Cho-Oyu due to symptoms of PE and postpone his Everest attempt until next year.

15 May, 2004 Today - first ascent this year to Mt. Everest (classic route from South)- Chilean Ernesto Olivares Miranda, Andronico Luksic Craig, Misael Alvial Cid, Sherpa Alden, Sherpa Angi, Sherpa Rama, Sherpa Shulding, Kiko, and British Annabelle Bond.

15 May, 2004 Makalu (classic) Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has arrived May 13 at Camp I (6550 ) of Makalu with Ricardo Valencia, Alex Txikon, Ivan Vallejo, Joby Ogwyn and Peter Guggemos. May 14 the six climbers will go up to set a camp III at 7650. And, on Saturday, push to the summit. Inaki Ochoa plans to go to K2 this summer too.

15 May, 2004 V╠ctor Herrera Ŕ Xavi Arias (Argentina) summited Dhaulagiri May,14

11 May, 2004 The Bulgarian jubelee at Mt. Everest. This North side expedition is organized by the Federation of Bulgarian Alpine Clubs to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the traverse on Everest, when four of the climbers succeeded on Everest by climbing up the West Ridge of the peak and down the southeast. Now three of the summiteers return 20 years later, to attempt Everest from the North side and without oxygen. The leader is Metodi Savov who lost parts of his legs during the 1984 Everest climb.

11 May, 2004 British services Makalu - the team has set Camp 2 at 6650 m May, 7.

7 May, 2004 Jean-Christophe Lafaille - solo climb to Makalu Northern slope - May 4th , he climbed until 7200 meters , found a very difficult passage at 7000 He needed 2 hours to climb 60 meters. Now after the rest in ABC he's climbing to install Camp 2 about 7400 .

 

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