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March - April 2006 news

28 April, 2006 SVANETIA (Caucasus): be a guest of Khergiany - mountaineering camp for experiences climbers July, 15 - August, 15

27 April, 2006 Manaslu, Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov will rest some days and then will try new route. Summit photos.

26 April, 2006 Everest (Tibet), Korshunov's team set Camp 1 at the North Col.

26 April, 2006 Manaslu, International team descended to BC. The weather's worsening again. The most of loads is at 6500. Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov are safe in BC after the descent in the fog along the icefalls. They climbed new variant of the normal route.

25 April, 2006 Manaslu, Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov summited at 11-45 a.m. (Nepal time). Back to the tent at 7450 they descended at 1-50 p.m. (Moscow time).

International team (Bogomolov, Gia, Spaniards and Japan expedition) - went up till 6500

24 April 2006 Korshunov's team: the team has reached ABC today. Yesterday - fresh problems: Tibetian porters demand extra fee for logistics to ABC - more than signed the the contract. The team, which has small budget, and has already extra payed for the chopper to Chinese border, is in the difficult position now, the same for the Byelorussian small team. The borth team's planes are in danger - they need to acclimatize too fast (and so in case the weather'll be acceptable).

24 April, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily reached "French" pass. Today the'll try to set camp. The weather's fine.

24 April, 2006 Manaslu, Denis Urubko: SMS 1-50 p.m.: We're at 7450m! Heading to the summit - we'll decide looking to the night weather.

Apr, 23 4-00 p.m. We climbed till 7000 m, we're very tired because of deep snow. We'll rest here and decide in morning if we'll go back to BC or climb furthe to 7500.

Serguey Bogomolov, sms 11-40 a.m.: We're not lucky with weather: the third time we reached C1 - and here's snow storm again! No visibility. We'll see and
decide tomorrow. Yesterday we discussed how to join our efforts with
Jap[anese climbers. THey've the ecological goal beside climbing one
(50-th Manaslu anniversary) - the situation become global in
Himalaya.

Apr, 23: We descended back to BC because of bad weather. The large Japan team led by Junko Tabei.

21 April, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS 4-00 p.m. We saw stars yesterday - for the first time in two weeks! The night was cold, morning - clear. All of us were hurrying like crazy, headed to C1. Now we're discussing our tomorrow plans. Ambitions... Kazakhs - Urubko and Samoilov want to go up, Spaniards want only to set C2 and to descent aftewards. We decided to climb by 5-persons team.

21 April 2006 Korshunov's team leader Nickolay Totmjanin sent us very sad letter: we're the fifth day without our warm clothes, without all our equipment - Chinese authorities hasn't provided our loads logistics to BC yet. WE're cold, especially at nights, and it's not so comfortable. And the maim inportant - we 're losing the climb time and broke our program - and it's too serious. When we went April, 17 to BC through the pass - there're no snow. But Chineses decided to wait some more loads addition to our not so large loads - and waited too long - and now they say that deep snow covered the pass.

21 April 2006 Falvit Polish-Russian Everest Expedition. The snow storm's finished, and the team has successfully descended to BC

20 April 2006 Falvit Polish-Russian Everest Expedition. The strong snow storm has blocked the team in C1, where the have very few of food and gas.

20 April, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily go further. They have to go in climbing plastic boots ahead the porters - to trail the deep snow.

20 April 2006 Manaslu, Denis Urubko: today our duo in the third time heading up to C1 and will try to climb further.

Serguey Bogomolov, sms from 8 p.m.: the weather's inproved, today's clear day. We climb again to C1, but I don't see the perspectives - there's too much fresh snow... We'll see tomorrow.

19 April, 2006 Korshunov's team: expedition loads didn't reach the base camp yet. But Boris tells funny stories to all members.

19 April, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily go to Yak-Karki (3900) with caravane. The weather's fine.

18 April, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS 4-00 p.m. It seems, Gods are angry with us - they have sent huge amounts of snow. We must constantly shovel our tents, which stay already in the 1,5-meters deep snow holes.. Thanks, there's no frost!

18 April, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily are in Marpha. It rains, two passes to Dhaulagiri are covered by a lot of snow. They'll go further tomorrow if the weather improve.

17 April, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS 12-00 a.m. Now we're in BC. We spent night in C1. All first push plan has been realized. There're a lot of snow above C1. Here're two Japanese teams, and will be one more.

17 April, 2006 Korshunov's team arrived to Everest BC

17 April, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily are in Jomson. Here's three days way to Dhaula. Photo.

17 April, 2006 Kathmandu: Korshunov's team had to fly by heli to Tibet - there're problems in Nepal to go by car on any roads. The same to Kazakhs - Maxut and Vassily cooperate with Italians (Nives Meroi and the team) to reach their climbing object. The heli flights are expensive and don't correspond with expeditions budgets, so there'll be problems with coming back...

16 April, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS 11-00 a.m. We spent night at C1. Romanian Romeo suddenly went down in the morning. and his friend said that he was coming around the tent all the night. WE reached 5800. One more night in C1. It's still snow...

16 April, 2006 Manaslu, .Denis Urubko: SMS 11-20 (Moscow time): We're not Serguey and Den - we're BADJO and DAY. On Nepalese it means "Father" and "brother". Inaki learned "to work today" om Russian. They climbed 500 m couloir above C1. The weather's extremely bad

14 April, 2006 Manaslu, Denis Urubko: SMS 12-50 (Moscow time): We descended to BC. The way to C1 is acceptable, pity that it covered by snow again and again. We're waiting the weather. All are ready to go up, but I and Samoilov will rest.

14 April, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS 11-30 a.m. (Moscow time): All our last days work is failed - the second snow storm in 5 days. Fresh snow layer is knees-deep or more. Our tents stay in the one meter-deep holes. We're waiting normal snow conditions and weather improving.

14 April, 2006 Boris Korshunov team is in Kathmandu, start to Tibet will be tomorrow.

14 April, 2006 Falvit Everest Expedition. Polish-Russian team did acclimatize climb to Island Peak, April, 11, in spite of very bad weater, strong wind and snow storm. Summited: Simone Moro, Yanush Adamski, Tomas Kobelski, Yuri Ermachek, Darek Zalusski and Martina Woicekhovska.

13 April, 2006 Boris Korshunov interview - has he summited Everest in 1999?

12 April, 2006 A hour ago the team led by Nickolay Totmjanin started from Moscow to Himalaya. The members are: Boris Korshunov, Serguey Surmonin and Alexey Bolotov. The goal - to set age record at Everest (North classic route). Boris Korshunov born August, 31, 1935. Today, in Space Day April, 12 Boris was awarded special medal - 45 years ago, when Gagarin's flight was preparing, he was in the special research team, and than worked (and works now) in Space Industry.

12 April , 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov, SMS (4-30 p.m. Moscow time): We're in BC. Fixed 100 m ropes, but we need 50 m more till Camp 1. The slpoe's very avalanche dangerous. Tomorrow we'll go up for the reconnaissance above Camp 1. Now's strong snow storm, now visibility. Congratate everybody with Cosmos Day! Serguey and Gia.

12 April , 2006 First three members of the Byelorussian Everest Expedition arrived to Kathmandu yesterday, Leader - Vladimir Telpuk will come April, 14.
They'll leave for BC April, 15.

12 April , 2006 Dhaulagiri ana Annapurna: Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov are going to Himalaya Double in alpine style this Spring. They 'll start from Kathmandu April, 15 (last two weeks Maxut led a trekking group to Nepal Everest Base Camp, climb Kala Pattar, and now they finished their program)

12 April , 2006 Falvit Everest Expedition.(Polish-Russian) Three days ago the team was in Pangboche, 3985 м

12 April , 2006 Manaslu: Urubko and Samoilov are in C1 (5700). Others are in BC. The weather's very bad, too much snow.

8 April , 2006 Manaslu: All are in one BC - Urubko, Samoilov, Inaki, Peter, Bogomolov and Gia. Greetings from all! They are goimg to climb normal route, then Denis and Serguey will try at the other side.

7April , 2006 Manaslu: Denis, Serguey, Inaki and Peter are in the BC at 4700.

5 April , 2006 Manaslu: Denis Urubko sent some pictures from Kathmandu. His team and Serguey Bogomolov & Gia Tortladze fly today to Samagaon - just in time before the strike.

3 April , 2006 Manaslu new route: Denis Urubko wrote from Kathmandu that there're quite and all are cheap, and Inaki learned to say on Russian "I'm not crazy!"...

28 March, 2006 Yuri Ermachek wrote from Poland: Everest Traverse - will not be! China authorities does not give the permit, referring on illegality of crossing of border...

21 March, 2006

Gleb Sokolov was awarded Golden Edelweiss last Friday in Moscow, at Vertical film festival Ц he got the prize for the best Russian 2005 climb. His solo-traverse of Pobeda peak in extremely snow conditions is a great achievement Ц but this year Gleb will continue his love-story with Pobeda: HeТs going with one or two mates to open the new route at this most dagerous sevethousander

20 March, 2006 Dhaulagiri ana Annapurna: Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov are going to Himalaya Double in alpine style this Spring.

Mountaineering
World's news

27 April, 2006 Lhotse: Simone Moro stay in BC .

25 April, 2006 Cho Oyu: Piotr Moravsky and Peter Hamor summited this peak today morning. It's the first step of Peter's thisseason triptych - Annapurna and Broad peak are ahead. Don Bowie had to turn back at around 7800 meters because he froze a toe. Piotr Pustelnik turned back in 50 m from the summit

24 April, 2006 Lhotse: Simone Moro returned to BC after 3 days and 3 night spent at 6400 at C2 due a storm and heavy snowfall

20 April, 2006 Lhotse: Simone Moro is blocked in C2 on the route - there's strong snow storm at Everest.

4 April, 2006 On 28 March ItaliansHerve Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi and Giovanni Ongaro climbed a new mixed line up the grandiose and previously untouched North Face of San Lorenzo, Patagonia.

17 March, 2006 Marko Prezelj, Stephen Koch and Dean Potter made two fast ascents, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.

16 March, 2006 Simone Moro are going to Lhotse this Spring, the West Face new route, if the weather'll be fine enough.

4 April, 2006 Patagonia. On 28 March Herve Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi and Giovanni Ongaro climbed a new mixed line up the grandiose and previously untouched North Face of San Lorenzo. The four members hoped to make the first ascent of the extraordinary NE Face of the second highest mountain in the Patagonian Andes, but terrible conditions forced them to change plans and choose a line up the obvious snow gully on the North Face. This in turn led to a runnel and the right-hand side of the summit ice mushroom.

They dug a snowcave at the foot of the mountain and waited patiently for the right conditions. Despite unstable weather they set off on 27 March for the snowcave, which had collapsed in the meantime. They consequently dug another cave and set off at 6.00am the next morning with grey skies. They needed 7 hours to climb the gully and crux runnel which led to the summit. They descend immediately and at 23.00 were safely back in their ice cave.

This successful ascent marked the end of the UP Trip Two Patagonia. The expedition had previoulsy attempted the immense NW Face of Cerro Piergiorgio, but this was abandoned when a rockfall hit basecamp on 22/02/2006. Only expedition leader Luca Maspes was in basecamp at the time but he miraculously walked away relatively unharmed. The other members were engaged on the wall where they had established 11 pitches of their Gringos Locos prior to the rockfall. For obvious reasons the expedition immediately evacuated basecamp and headed to San Lorenzo.

28 March , 2006 Yuri Ermachek wrote yesterday: My flying away on March, 26 was about broken - I has packed my passport in luggage!.. But could get it off! Now all is ќ . There're 2 members more in our team - now we have 7 climbers, two Sherpas, the doctor and the journalist. Such greater Polish expedition is goimg for the first time!

Today at 9 a.m. we'll leave for Warsaw, then Moscow- Delhi - Kathmandu. In our plans - the acclimatization on the Meru peak or Island Peak. We should arrive to the base camp on April, 15th. Up to the end of May we shall do an attempt to Everest and then, if we will enough forces - we'll climb Lhotse - because this year we selebrate its 50-th anniversary of the first climb.

Everest Traverse - will not be! China authorities does not give the permit, referring on illegality of crossing of border... On March, 22 all the day out team went in Wroclaw and bought the rest of equipment for the expedition. We visited pan Bogdan Yanushkevitch - the veteran of the Polish mountaneering. He was the leader of 8 successful expeditions - winter Everest expedition and two K2 expeditions among them. He gave us radio sets and sat phone. March, 23 since morning we packed equipment into flanks and have sent the luggage to Warsaw. Greetings to all!