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May - June 2006 news

 

25 June, 2006 Masherbrum: the team reached Base Camp, but... Alexander Odintsov is evacuated today with hepatitis to Skardu, then he will go to Islamabad and then - to Moscow. The team's leader is now Alexander Ruchkin. He decided not to climb Masherbrum North-East Fce, but climb the North ridge. Now they're preparing to the acclimatize climb one of the nearest peaks. Masherbrum greets climbers by everyday ice avalanches in the bottleneck in the beginning of the route.

24 June 2006 Denis Urubko: Tien Shan Winter blue (Marble Wall winter climb, 6146 m)

24 June 2006 "K2 Kuzbass 2006" team are in Askole. Team members: Yuri Uteshev (leader), Alexander Foigt (coach), Piotr Kuznetsov, Vicror Kulbachenko, Arcady Kuvakin, Alexander Gaponov, Alexey Rusakov, Serguey Naumenko.

23 June 2006 Masherbrum: Odintsov's team reached Base Camp.

14 June 2006 Expedition "K2 Kuzbass 2006" (from Siberia, 8 climbers, leader - Yury Uteshev, classic route) start today to Pakistan from Moscow. K2 West Face expedition postponed to 2007. Sergyey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze are going to K2 too.

12 June 2006 West Tibet, Gurla-Mandhatha (7728 м)

12 June 2006 Manaslu NE Face: photo gallery

6 June, 2006 Names of Sherpas, participating in Linkoln Hall's rescue: Nima Wangde Sherpa, Passang Sherpa, Furba Rushakj Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Dorjee Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Mingma Dorjee Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Passang Gaylgen Sherpa, Lakcha Sherpa.

 

1 June, 2006 Manaslu NE Face: great success in the Spring 2006 Himalaya season.

 

 

29 May, 2006 The unique rescue is over: Linkoln Hall is safe and going to Kathmandu

26 May, 2006 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition: Thomas Weber died, Linkoln Hall alive on Everest. Linkoln, assumed dead spent a night alone, without oxygen and tent, at 8700. 7 p.m. Moscow time: Linkoln safe on the North Col!

6 p.m. local time: Linkoln is alive already in Camp 3. The rescue team hope to bring him to the North Col late evening.

23 May, 2006 Everest from North: Korshunov's team - Nickolay Totmjanin summited today, w/o., and Vladimir Telpuk - the leader of Bielorussian team . Detailes - later.

22 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Photogallery

22 May, 2006 Everest from North: Korshunov's team - Nickolay Totmjanin is at 8300 w/o, Serguey Surmonin and Alexey Bolotov turned back from 8000 m, Boris Korshunov didn't left ABC - he doesn't feel well..

22 May, 2006 Everest from North: yesterday 16 members og "7 summits" team summited - at 8-00 guide Serguey Kophanov, sirdar Gelu Sherpa, and other 3 Sherpas, Slate Stern (USA), Henrik Olsen (Denmark), Arcady Ryzhenko (Russia) and 2 more Sherpas summited a bit later. At 10.00 Expedition guide Ukraine Igor Svergun radioed from the summit, where he was together with Noel Hanna (Ireland), Kirk Weatley (England) and Lorenzo Gariano (UK - Italy) and 2 more Sherpas. The second group have left on an attempt.

19 May 2006 Valery Babanov refused from his previous goal Chomo Lonzo, and climbed the West Face of Chomo Lonzo North - 1100 m altitude differnce wall. He turned back at 7100 when reached the ridge to avoid the cold campless night. He managed the night descent to ABC (ww.babanov.com)

19 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Kazakhstan climbers Maxut Zhumayev & Vassily Pivtsov summited Annapurna via French route today at 9-20 (Moscow time). They climb in Alpine style in 5 days. Started at midnight, the weather was great! Too much snow, they had to trail deep break to the summit. This's 10th 8000-er for Max and Vassily.

18 May, 2006 Falvit Polish-Russian Everest Expedition. All members summited normal South route today and descended to the South Col. Yuri Ermachek summited w/o

18 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily set Camp 4at 7315 m. They started at 5 a.m. Strong wind began to blow at 7 a.m. and snow and clouds, low visibility (20 m) at the mount.

17 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily set Camp 3 at 6650 m. They crossed the icefall with a lot of dangerous crevasses.

17 May, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze summited 11-30 a.m. Nepal time.

16 May, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov nd Gia Tortladze set camp 4 at 7400. it's the third attempt of the summit bid. Serguey wrote today that they rescued Stephan Kifer, and his brother Peter descended near them.

16 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily set Camp 2 at 5700 m. No other expeditions in the base camp or this route.

15 May, 2006 Himalaya double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Maxut and Vassily began to climb Annapurna. Today they crossed icefall and reach 5050 m.

15 May, 2006 Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov are going to Kathmandu today. Yesterday they met maoists and had conflict with them.

15 May, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov nd Gia Tortladze started from Camp 3 at 11 p.m. May, 8 and reached 7700 at 8-00 a.m. May, 9. They're dreaming about Manaslu summit in Victory Day, but at 12-00 a.m. the visibility disappeared, and then in 4 hours, which the duo spent on the ridge, the wind 100 km/h began - so, climbers hardly turned back.

15 May, 2006 Everest (from Tibet) : Korshunov's team reached 8300 m May, 13, made the depo (tent and supplies) and return to 7800. Today they descended to BC for the rest.

12 May, 2006 Everest (from Tibet) : Korshunov's team reached 7800 yesterday, but today they couldn't climb till 8300 because of the strong wind. They stay at 7800 and hope that the wind won't be so strong tomorrow.

11 May, 2006 Cho Oyu: Georgian climber Bidzina Gurdzhabidze summited yesterday (info from Royal Mountain Travel company).

11 May, 2006 Manaslu, Serguey Bogomolov nd Gia Tortladze started from Camp 3 at 11 p.m. May, 8 and reached 7700 at 8-00 a.m. May, 9. They're dreaming about Manaslu summit in Victory Day, but at 12-00 a.m. the visibility disappeared, and then in 4 hours, which the duo spent on the ridge, the wind 100 km/h began - so, climbers hardly turned back. The duo is healthy, but German climber Peter Guggemos has pulmonary edema. Serguey and Gia helped him to descend to the base camp. Now the duo needs in the rest and recowering and hope for the next push.

10 May, 2006 Everest (from Tibet) : Korshunov's team begin summit push: yesterday they started from BC, reached ABC, today - North Col, tomorrow they're planning to climb till 7700.

9 May, 2006 Manaslu: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov descended to the base camp. They congratulate all readers with May, 9 - great Victory Day! (SMS from 11-00 a.m., Moscow time)

Mountaineering
World's news

24 June 2006 Broad Peak: Piotr Pustelnik are going to climb new route in alpine style - this'll be his fouth attempt and the last 8000-er.

23 June 2006 Gasherbrum IV: Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro are going to a new route on GIV West Face. Germans Michi Wartl and David Gottler will climb South Face.

20 June 2006 Rock Unior, Arko (Italy)

 

12 June 2006 K2 North Ridge expedition is organized by Canadian Alpine Club. Climbers from Canada, USA and Czeh Republic start from Kashgar

12 June 2006 Basque 14x8000ers summiteer Alberto Inurrategiwith partners Jon Beloki and Eneka Guenetxea are preparing to Everest climb in post- monsoon period in August - they'll climb in alpine-style, without oxygen and Sherpas, following the Hornbein couloir. They summited Shivling (6543 m) in India's Garhwal Himalaya some weeks ago, by normal route.

26 May 2006 Annapurna: Peter Hamor summited. Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Moravski helped to Tibet who became snow blended, so they couldn't reach the summit.

25 May 2006 Cho Oyu:. David Bols de Boer, Jono Smith and Chris Nagel and Sherpas Jmamchang, Densa и Jyamling summited today.

25 May 2006. Makalu. Five Italian climbers - Panzeri, Berna, Renzo, Angelo, Mario Vielmo - and Polish climber Anna Cherwinsla summited.

24 May 2006. Everest, West ridge: Dave Bunting, the leader of British Army Everest expedition took the decision to call off the expedition - the avalanche danger is too big at the Hornbine couloir.

23 May 2006.Kangchenjunga: Joao Garcia и Ivan Vallejo summited! This's Ivan's 12th 8000-er.

22 May 2006. One more Everest traverse: Dawa Sherpa climbed from Tibet BC to the top and descended to Nepal BC in 20 hours.

22 May 2006. Everest: Fremch climber died when descended from the summit.

22 May 2006. Tomas Olsson's body has been found at 6700.

22 May 2006. Everest traverse : Simone Moro summited from Nepal and descended to Tibet.

19 May, 2006 Today Apa Sherpa summited Everest again - he already reached this top 16 times.

19 May, 2006 Lhotse: this morning Silvio Mondinelli, Giampaolo Corona and Giampaolo Casarotto reached the summit of Lhotse at 10:00 am, local time

19 May, 2006 Simone Moro this morning started from camp 4. Now he's at the Everest South Col at 8000 meters. In the coloir that he chose for the Lhotse is to much snow from the last weeks. So he continued to the Col. and this night will try to make Everest without oxygen.

18 May 2006 Swedish Tomas Olsson and Norwegian Tormod Granheim called home from the summit of Everest, about to put on their skis and attempt a ski descent down the Norton Couloir. Tomas fell on the rock section during rappelling and continued slide down. on the wall.

16 May 2006. Everest, Mark Inglis, double amputee summited Everest May, 15 via North normal route with Himex team

12 May 2006. Everest Traverse: Korean Park Young-Seok and Sherpa Jangbu summited Everest via North side May, 11 at 12-50, and descended at Nepal's side - with no ropes fixed till the South Col. Oh Hee-jun and Lee Hyeong-mo summited too, but descended by North normal route. Friends have prepared Camp 1 for the traversing duo.

11 May2006. Everest North : first climbs this season - Dave Watson and John Bagnulo (both - May, 10)

10 May 2006. Lhotse: Simone Moro: I reached the end of the fixropes and had a really bad surpriseЕ. my rucksack was not there, with everything inside!!!

 

June, 20, 2006 Just like every year climbers travelled to Arco from as far a field as Russia and Great Britain, Slovenia and Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Germany, Luxemburg and, naturally, Italy. A fantastic "populous" aged 5-13, united by this vertical passion, which gathered together at the Climbing Stadium to climb and discover nature at the nearby rocky habitat. But there was more in store for them: they climbed the bouncy castles and across the great Rock Junior vertical park and naturally competed in the Kid's Rock and the Family Rock relay event.

And of course they took part in the Under 14 Cup, the international competition for the best European youth squads which took place on the legendary Rock Master wall, which hosts the oldest and most spectacular sports climbing competition. Many of these budding athletes will no doubt have dreamt of competing here in the future, and for some of them reality could be a lot closer than they might think. It comes as no surprise therefore that the Under 14 Cup saw some true rising stars competing on the routes set by Donato Lella and Leonardo Di Marino, two route setters who, unsurprisingly, are not only the official Rock Master route setters but also route setters for many of the most important international climbing competitions worldwide.

All three female competitions turned out beautifully and all three needed a fought-out Superfinal to produce a clear winner. Category "A" ('93 / '94) was won by Katharina Poll from Austria ahead of her teammate Elisabeth Gruebler. Category B ('95 / '96) was won by Iva Vejmolova from the Czech Republic ahead of Karoline Sinnhuber from Austria, while the youngest Category C ('97 / '99),was won by Miriam Martini from Italy, who beat Hannah Schubert from Austria.

Max Rudigier won the male A Category by on-sighting both routes, and the Austrian beat the Italians Stefano Ghisolfi and Marcello Bombardi, 2nd and 3rd respectively. Andras Kiraly climbed highest of all in Category B and he beat Hans Moritz from Germany and Markus Ladurner from Italy. Category C was won by Jakub Svub from Slovenia, ahead of Ruben Firnenburg and Randy Roby, both from Germany.

The Speed event was won once again by Max Rudigier (Category A) and Jakub Svub (Category C) while the fastest of Category B was Hans Moritz. The Category A female event was won by Pia Mechik from Austria ahead of Anna Gislimberti from Italy. Margherita Dallabrida and Miriam Martini, both from Italy, won their categories B and C respectively.

These young and even younger athletes will no doubt write sport climbing history one day. In the meantime though one thing is certain: they were all protagonists of this fantastic Rock Junior 2006. From the young champions of the spectacular Under 14 Cup to those children who competed for the very first time this weekend in the Kid's Rock or climbed and discovered the Colodri's rocky secrets: this was their weekend. There were thousands here at Arco this weekend, all were happy to be here, to climb and compete together. This is without a doubt what the Rock Junior is all about and its best and most beautiful aspect.