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Big
Walls - Russian routes
Current
step: the of the wall in South America (they don't choose yet)
The
project means the ascents via the new routes on the famous Big Walls.
Big Wall is the nature phenomenon, a precipice which has a steep
more than 70° and the length more than kilometer. There are
about twenty Big Walls in the World.
The russian team've chosen 10 from the most prestigious Walls for
climbing them via new, exclusive routes. In all mountaineering catalogues
these routes will have the name "russian route". Climbing
each of these Walls is the great event in the mountaineering world.
The russian team have chosen the goal, which looks like unpracticable
by the quick viev.
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Peak
4810, Pamir
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The
first step of this project was the ascent of 4810
Peak, East Face (Pamir Alay) in 1995 by Alexander
Odintsov and Igor Barikhin.
The
second - Alexander Odintsov and Alexander Ruchkin
(Omsk) ascended the West Face of Aksu
Peak (Pamir Alay) in 1996
The
third ascent was realized in Norway in 1997. Four russian
climbers: Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potan'kin,
Alexander Ruchkin and Yuri Koshelenko laid two
independent routes on the famous Troll
Wall, and these routes are called "russian"
since that.
The
North Face of unclimbed Bhagirathi
Peak in India resigned to four climbers: Igor Potan'kin,
Yuri Koshelenko, Vladimir Kachkov and Andrew Lukin
in 1998. Alexander Odintsov didn't reach the top, he was
obliged to descent from the half of route because of illness.
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The
fifth, equator of the project, was the ascent of West Face of Trango
Tower in Pakistan - the object of the cult for mountaneers.
"American Alpin Journal" included the ascents to Trango
and Bhagirathi to the list of the 100 best ascents of XX Century.
In
2000-2001 the team did two attempts to conquer Latok
III in Pakistan. They were swept away by the avalanche,
where three of four members had been traumatized. In 2001 on the
thirteenth day of the ascent, when it stayed less than one third
of the way, Igor Barikhin died in the stonefall. Igor was the highest
range climber, whom Alexander Odintsov began this project with.
In
spite of the tragedy on Latok III, the project "Big Walls -Russian
routes" is continuing.
The
ascent of Great Sail Peak on Baffin
Island in Polar Canada was realized in the Spring 2002.
Members
of the project ( in the different years):
Alexandr
Odintsov (St-Petersburg)
- head of project,
Potan'kin Igor (St-Petersburg), Troll Wall, Trango Tower,
Bhagirathi II
Yuri Koshelenko(Rostov-on-Don),
Troll Wall, Trango Tower, Bhagirathi II, Latok III 2000 attempt.
Alexandr Ruchkin (Almaty)
- Troll Wall, Latok III 2000 attempt, LATOK III -2001, Great Sail
Peak 2002
Lukin Andrei (St-Petersburg) - Bhagirathi III expedition,
Kachkov Vladimir (St-Petersburg) - Bhagirathi III expedition.
Igor Barikhin (St-Petersburg) 4810, Latok III-2001
Michail Davy (Yekaterinburg) LatokIII-2001, Great Sail Peak
2002
Sergey Efimov Latok III-2000
Alexander Kljonov (Yekaterinburg) LatokIII-2001, Great Sail
Peak 2002
Sergei Hadzhinov (St-Petersburg) Latok III-2001
Valery Rozov (Moscow) Great SAil Peak 2002
Mikhail Bakin - doctor of expeditions: Trango Tower, Bhagirathi
II, Latok III 2000 attempt, Latok III-2001, Great Sail Peak 2002
Ivan Samoilenko - high altitude camera man on Trango Tower,
film maker, Great Sail Peak 2002
List of ascents
Peak
4810 - Pamir (1995)
Peak
Aksu - Pamir (August 1996)
Troll
Wall - Norway (July- August 1997)
Bhagirathi
III - India (Autumn 1998)
Trango
Tower - Pakistan (August 1999)
Latok
III - Pakistan (July 2000) -first attempt
The
BASK-LATOK III expedition (June-July 2001) -second attempt
Great Sail Peak - Baffin Island - Canada -
(May 2002)
Fitz Roy - Argentina
Rarayma - Venesuella
Huascaran - Peru
El Capitan - USA
Jannu - Nepal
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| Aksu |
Bhagirathi
III |
Trango
Tower |
Troll
Wall |
Latok
III |
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PROJECTS
