January
- April, 2002 news
28
April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma - 2002 Expedition
news (from BC)
27
April, 2002 Lhotse-Saint Petersburg Spring 2002 Expedition news
25
April, 2002 The resumes of the team-mates from Troll Wall Expedition
added to the expedition page. Very good characteristics, written
by Oleg Khvostenko & Ilia Naimushin Read!
24
April, 2002 The Canadian Ambassy opened visas to members of
the project "BIG WALLS - RUSSIAN ROUTES", so they'll start
in time to Baffin Island - 26 April
24
April, 2002 News from Kazakhstan Kangchenjunga Spring 2002 expedition
23
April, 2002 Lhotse-Saint Petersburg Spring 2002 Expedition news
23
April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma - 2002 Expedition
news (from China already)
22
April, 2002 Photo gallery from Patagonia: pictures by Timur
Akhmedkhanov, the member of the expedition to Serro Torre in January,
2002
22
April, 2002 Resume of Alexander Odintsov ( the head of the project
"BIG WALLS - RUSSIAN ROUTES" and the leader of the Baffin
Island Expedition)
22
April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma - 2002 Expedition
news (new pictures !)
21
April, 2002 Today Victor Kozlov + 3 members begin to realize the
new project;
"THE NORTH FACE OF Mt EVEREST
- 2003".
19
April, 2002 Press-conference of the Baffin Island Expedition
(The project "BIG WALLS - RUSSIAN ROUTES)took
place in press center ITAR-TASS in Saint Petersburg today. Read
the press-release on the expedition's page
18
April, 2002 CET "Neva" announcement
18
April, 2002 Valery Balezin's resume
18
April, 2002 Lhotse-Saint Petersburg Spring 2002 Expedition news
18
April, 2002 See new pictures about winter ascention to Khan
Tengri
17
April, 2002 The part "Outdoor companies" is open at our site
15
April, 2002 The Winter All Russia Mountaineering Championship
- results
15
April, 2002 The details winter Troll Wall Expedition
12
April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma - 2002 Expedition
details
12
April, 2002 Let me introduce you the russian extrem magazine
"EX"
10
April, 2002 New article by Yuri Koshelenko:
the project "Open Caucasus" - ascensions in Shkhelda region , March
2002
9 April, 2002 "Lhotse- Saint Petersburg - 2002
Expedition" news
8 April, 2002 The team, which has conquered the
Lhotse Middle last Spring, was awarded the prize "Golden Edelweiss"
Our congratulations!
7 April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma
- 2002 Expedition news
5 April, 2002 "Lhotse- Saint Petersburg - 2002
Expedition" are in Kathmandu preparing to fly to Luckla
5 April, 2002 The presentation of the film "Russian
8000-peak" took place in the Cinema House in Yekaterinburg. Great
success!
3 April, 2002 News from Kazakhstan Kangchenjunga
Spring 2002 expedition
29 March, 2002 Kyrgyz Rescue Team "Terskey Rescuer"
won The Kazakhstan Championship in speedy ascent of Peak Amangeldy
(3999m)
28 March, 2002 Ural (Russian) Everest 2002 Expedition
is planning on leaving Kathmandu for Tibet to climb the North side
of Everest on 4/6/02.
26 March, 2002 The 5th Moscow International Festival
of Mountain and Adventure Films will take place in Moscow from April
5th to April 7th, 2002. In 6th of April the special prize "The Golden
Edelweiss" will be awarded for the best russian ascent in 2001.
25 March, 2002 The new rock climbing site is open
in Yekaterinburg.
17 March, 2002 The presentation of the film "Russian
8000-peak" took place in the International Trade Center in Moscow.
06 March, 2002 Kazakhstan's team summited Khan Tengri
22 February, 2002 Krasnoyarsk team (6 persons, leaded
by Oleg Hvostenko)
climbed Troll Wall via the new route
31 January, 2002 Timur Ahmedhanov, Arkady Seregin and
Alexander Lastochkin
summited Serro Torre in 22.15pm via "Kompressor" route
12 January, 2002 Valery Babanov won Piolet d'Or 2002
27 April,
2002 "Lhotse-
Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition" . 26 April Alexey Sedov
called from BC: The part of the group started up for setting Camp3
at 7200. The ascent to Camp4 (7800) is putting off because of bad
weather conditions. The group will return to BC at 30th of April.
The information provided by Ekaterina Goryshina, "Royal
Trekking"
24 April,
2002 KAZAKHSTAN
KANGCHENJUNGA SPRING 2002 EXPEDITION:
Sergey Lavrov called,
that the team reached Kangchenjunga BC (5600m) only at the 19th
of April. They have already set the Camp1. All are fine.
The information provided by Aldas Baltutis (Almaty)
23 April,
2002 "Lhotse-
Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition" . Alexey Sedov called,
that all group successlully returned from Camp2 (6500), the equipment
was lifted to the Camp3 (7200m) All are fine, but the weather turned
bad. 25 April they'll start to Camp3.
The information provided by Ekaterina Goryshina, "Royal
Trekking"
21 April,
2002 Today Victor Kozlov and three
members: Sergey Timofeev, Evgeny Vinogradsky, Igor Borisenko (camera
man) depart from Moscow to Kathmandu. All of them were the participants
of the Lhotse Middle Expedition in 2001. The new project "The
North Face of Mt. Everest -2003" is beginning. This season
they will do the reconnaissance at the North Face. The team will
be at the Everest BC at 5200 through the month, set the camps at
5500 and 5900m, record the conditions at their future route by video.
Such material will help the team to analyse and choose the strategy
for the future ascent
18 April,
2002 Dear
friends and colleagues,
We
are glad to inform you that Agency of adventures and travels "CET
NEVA"
is celebrating its 10-years anniversary in this year.
As part of the celebrations for the "'Year of Mountains",
the "CET NEVA" is
arranging OPEN expedition to climb Peak Somoni - formerly known
as Peak
Communism(7495m), by the classical route: via Walter Glacier, the
High Pamir
Plateau and Peak Dushanbe (6,900 m) and Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m)
and lower
Peaks Vorobiova (5691m) and Chetyrekh (6299m).
You
could find addition information at:
Tel.
+ 7 812 277 49 83
Tel/fax: + 7 812 277 50 66
Best regards,
Agency CET "Neva", Anatoly Moshnikov, director.
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18 April,
2002 "Lhotse-
Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition" . All team reached BC
at 12th of April. Our team was the last, who was declared at this
season. It was sunny before the dinner, we established the tents,
prepared BC. After dinner the snowfall and the strong wind began,
the temperature was -12C at night. Next day, 13 April we cotinued
to prepare BC, carried stones, built the stone wall against yaks.
It was sunny and warm again. At 14th of April we consecrated our
BC, hanged the Tibetian prayer flags, lifted the Russian flag, made
the donnation for Gods. 15 April at 5-30a.m. we began to ascent
to Camp1 (6100m), where we spent the night. 16 April - we descended
to BC for the rest, next ascent is planning to Camp1- Camp2 (6100-6500m)
with couple of nights at 19th of April. Next relation will be at
22 April
The information provided by Ekaterina Goryshina, "Royal
Trekking"
Photo
of the team in BC - on the expedition's
page
15
April, 2002 17 teams from the different regions of Russia took
part in the Winter All Russia Mountaineering Championship (1 December,
2001 - 28 February, 2002)
As
a result, 8 teams successfuly climbed their routes, and have got
the participant's diploma. Others haven't reached the top or refused
of the climb because of the different causes.
The
winners are:
1.The
team of Krasnoyarsk Sport Committee (the leader Oleg Khvostenko
+5 members) - for the climb to the North
Face of Troll Wall (Norway)1748m - 3 - 22 March, 2002
2.The
team of the Sportclub of Siberia Polytecknical Institute (Irkutsk)
(the leader Kosoturov S + 3 members) - for the ascention to the
South Face of the Peak Obrez (Kodar)2980m - 9-21 February, 2002
3.
The team of the Central Sport Club of Army (Siberian Region) (the
leader Afanasiev A. +5 members) - for the first ascent to the North-East
Face of the XX-letija Oktjabrja Peak (Altay)4160m - 11-17 and 21-28
February, 2002
Sergey
Shibaev
9 April,
2002 "Lhotse- Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition" . Message
from Kathmandu: all members are OK, they reached Tengboche (3868m),
region Solo Khumbu, and are resting there
Ekaterina Goryshina, "Royal
Trekking"
8 April,
2002 The prize "Golden Edelweiss for the best russian climb
in 2001, has been got by the team, which realized the first
ascent to the unclimbed 8000-peak Lhotse Middle. It was really
the gratest event for our mountaneering brotherhood in 2001. The
prize award ceremony took place at the 5th Moscow International
Festival of Mountain and Adventure Films in Moscow. Our congratulations
to the team and the best wishes to their next project - North
Face of Mt. Everest !
7
April, 2002 The Dutch-Russian Shisha Pangma - 2002 Expedition
plans to climb Mt. Shisha Pangma (8012 m) by the normal route from
Tibet. 8 Russian climbers will fly from Moscow to Kathmandu on April
19. In Kathmandu 6 Dutch members will join them and the expedition
will drive to Tibet on April 22.
Russian
team:
- Marina
Ershova - Russian team leader
-
Oleg Nasedkin
- Vladimir
Belous
- Victor
Bobok
- Vladimir
Oleynik
- Dmitry
Moskalev
- Iouri
Soifer
- Serguei
Bogomolov
Dutch
team:
- Werner
de Jong - Dutch team leader
- Jaco
Liefers
- Peter
van de Haar
- Marc
Streefkerk
- Paul
van den Dungen
- Trudy
van den Dungen
Andrey
Ershov
5
April, 2002 LHOTSE - SAINT PETERSBURG EXPEDITION are in Kathmandu
now, at 6th of April they'll fly to Lucla
Members:
-
Alexei Paskhin (Saint Petersburg)
- Sedov
Alexey (Saint Petersburg)
- Alexander
Pashkevich (Saint Petersburg)
- Yuri
Emelin (Saint Petersburg)
- Eugeny
Majorov (Saint Petersburg)
- Igor
Tsaruk (Saint Petersburg)
- Boris
Sedussov (Perm)
- Nikolay
Zakharov (Krasnojarsk)
- Igor
Korenjugin (Voroneg)
- Aleksey
Russo (Estonia)
- Sergey
Bychkovsky - doctor (Yekaterinburg)
3 April, 2002 KAZAKHSTAN KANGCHENJUNGA
Spring 2002 EXPEDITION. Denis Urubko from Kathmandu:
Now we are in Kathmandu, the team is buing the equipment, settling
the bills for "Asian Trekking", tomorrow we'll have briefing at
the Tourism Ministry of the Nepal kingdom, where we'll meet our
liaison officer.
There is rainy in Kathmandu. Iljinsky joked today, that rarely -
very rarely - monsoon begins in March... Can you imagine, what will
it be on Kangchenjunga? The snow-sea, up to the sky...By the way,
Ang Tsering, the head of the Asian Trekking, has come today from
Lhasa and says, that there is lots of snow in Tibet and in Hymalaya.
Political situation here becomes normal. There are a lot of soldies
on the streets, but it's calmly.
There are many interesting things in the shops, I again have an
impression, that there is a kind of heaven for the alpinist...
Through 2-3 days we'll begin our way to Taplejung by bus. From there
our caravan will carry around 800 kg of expedition supplies until
Base Camp (5600).
We plan to reach the summit in the middle of May by classical SW-face
route. Good Luck! Denis Urubko
29 March, 2002 Kyrgyz Rescue Team won The Kazakhstan Championship
in speedy ascent to Peak Amangeldy (3999m) 33 persons, including
as famous climbers as Denis Urubko, Sergey Lavrov, Rinat Khaibullin,
Andrey Puchinin took part in the Championship. The trainer of The
Rescue Team is the famous climber Igor Hanin
The competition took place in the Malaya Almatinka river Valley,
near the Tujuk Su mountaneering Camp.
28 March, 2002 URAL EVEREST EXPEDITION 2002 SPRING is planning
on leaving Kathmandu for Tibet to climb the North side of Everest
on 4/6/02.
members:
Mr. Kirievskiy Gennady
Mr. Bolotov Alexei
Mr. Borissov Serguei
Mr. Ragozin Valery
Mr. Ermachek Yuri
Mr. Povolotski Vladimir
NEPALESE STAFFS
Mr. Geljen SherpaCook
Mr.Ang Kami BhoteCook
26 March, 2002 The media company "Vertical-TV" organises
the 5th Moscow International Festival of Mountain and Adventure
Films. The Festival will take place in Moscow from April 5th to
April 7th, 2002. In 6th of April the special prize "The Golden
Edelweiss" will be awarded for the best russian ascent in 2001.
The
nominees:
- Lhotse
Middle (first ascent) - Timofeev +11
- Meru
Central (first ascent) - Babanov (Piolet d'Or 2002)
- El
Capitan (SE Face, "Reticent Wall") - Lastochkin,
Seregin, Ahmedhanov, Sorokaty
- Peak
Gorky (NW Face first ascent) - Ermachek, Popovich, Korobkov
- Erydag
(NW Face) - Andreev, Voronin, Koshelenko, Krivitsky
- Tsar's
Trone (SE) - Balezin, Arkhipov, Pugovkin, Stepanov, Fedorov,
Khvostenko
- Urrielju
(West Face "The Winter Dreams") - Moshnikov, Totmjanin,
Volodin, Kljonov
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25 March, 2002 The new Official website of Climbing World
Cup in Yekaterinburg is open.
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17 March, 2002 The presentation of the film "Russian
8000-peak" took place in the International Trade Center
in Moscow. All members of the team (12 persons) met at the
ceremony, they came from the different cities and were awarded
with the special medals, made in honour of their ascent to
the Lhotse Middle 23-27 May, 2001. The authors of the film
-
Victor Kozlov (organizer of the Lhotse Middle expedition) and Pavel Kadushin (general sponsor of the expedition and
the film). The film "Russian 8000-peak" is about the history
of the the attempts to summit the Lhotse Middle, about the
famous russian mountaineer Vladimir Bashkirov, whoes
idea was to find the way and climb the Lhotse Middle, about
his death in 1997 and about the great success of the final
attempt in Spring 2001.
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06 March, 2002 Khan
Tengri Winter climb. Six climbers from Almaty summited Khan Tengri at 6th
of March, 2002. Winter expedition to the very northern 7000-peak
began at 26 February, 2002. At 15p.m. they were at the top
Members:
- Nikolay
Chervonenko - the head of the expedition
- Dmitry
Muravjov (the leader)
- Kirill
Barbashinov
- Sergey
Samojlov
- Oleg
Shchukin
- Alexandre
Krynin
22
February, 2002 Three russian teams tryed to climb the famous
Troll Wall in Norway this winter.
Only one was successful (the team from Krasnoyarsk, Siberia) News
from the Krasnoyarsk team:
After Dmitrienko summited Troll Wall in 21 of February, 2002, at
16-00, the whole team next day
in 13-00 (local time) summited the top. "We are preparing to
descend. The weather,as a rule,
is very bad, it's wind, snow, etc., but we are brave..."
31
January,2002 News from therussian expedition to Serro Torre:
"We wake up at 2.30. There are some clouds on the sky (bad
sign!), but we decide to climb as long
as the wind blows us down. As soon as we climb the weather became
better! At 19.30 we approached
the headwall. You see, just later on we had the "opportunity"
to feel by our ass the way the Patagonian
mushrooms are growing up... The south-east overhanging 200 meters
part of headwall is fully
plastered by mushrooms. Impressive!
At
20.00 the weather changed to bad: strong wind and snowing. We did
not want to give up to be just
in 200 m. from summit.
At about 22.00-22.15 we were on the summit. This season is good
for Cerro Torre mushroom.
It's possible just to hike up there from the left side (south-west
side). Storm started and we started
our long way down. The snow heated your face with the pain, it was
impossible to look down,
there were the rivers of snow, flowing down... At 4 a.m., 01.02.02
we reached our rucksacks. "
( Arkady Seregin)
12 January, 2002 Valery Babanov won
Piolet d'Or 2002 The Russian mountaineer was awarded the
prestigious prize for his solo first-ascent
of the north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m),
located in India's Garwhal.
He climbed the 2000m long route over a five day period from 17-22
September 2001 and encountered
difficulties of up to 5+/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75°. It was his second
attempt at the route after a failed
attempt in Spring 2001, and also his third consecutive nomination
for the Piolet d'Or.
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