Meru Central peak 6310m (Northern wall)

(Piolet d'Or 2002)

Himalayas 22.09.01 at 15.10 (Omsk time - GMT +6:00)
Valery Babanov climbed on the Meru Central peak. Altimeter has shown height of 6310 meters.
The route passes by steep ice slope 700 meters long at first then through difficult monolithic ridge so-called
the "Shark fin" more than 800 meters long.

The Russian world-famous climber Valery Babanov came back from Himalayas after sensational solo first ascent on northern wall of Meru Central peak (the "Shark fin ").
First time the Russian mountain climbing sport-master Valery Babanov has made attempt of conquest of mysterious - unattainable Central top of Meru ridge in spring of this year. Then weather prevented him. But it became clear that IT IS POSSIBLE! Valery prepared for the second attempt very carefully. Excellent climbing equipment and up-to-date telecommunications allowed using the satellite phone with the pocketPC to send in Russia information about ascent practically in real-time with immediately putting it on five Internet-sites).

the route

But, apparently there is still something in Valery, something most important for success in such expeditions. Really.
There were more 15 attempts to conquer this peak. And now, together with Valery: two Americans, four Japanese and six Spanish climbers HAVE RETREATED in the face of difficulties of conquering the "Shark fin" And only ONE Russian from Siberia - did it!!! Now you can't say that was just a piece of luck. It is time to acknowledge that new star have appeared on the World's mountaineering sky. Very bright! In the spring of last year Valery was the first who has passed northern wall of spike Kangtega (6799m). For twenty years of mountaineering he has committed more than 200 climbing's. Over sixty from them were 5-th and 6-th category of difficulty. For today he is one of the strongest climbers of Russia and the World.

" I have named my route: " Shambala "... I am very happy that I climbed on top of the Meru Central. Gods have heard my prays, and water of Gang have carried away on current my ships into the distance... "
Valery. 01.09.25."

The general Russian sponsor of the project - Sportmaster Company


  • BASK - equipment and communication tools
  • Beal - rope
  • Petzel - "hard" equipment
  • Simond - iron
  • Mac Center - the information sponsor, the computer

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