- Travels. Adventures. Extrem"
May- June, #3/2003
in Saint Petersburg
- Sergey Shibaev
spring the editorial team of the magazine decided to mark two events: 50 years
anniversary of the first Everest climb and 5 years from the first number of the
last date is reflected in the article under the name of
"FIVE YEARS - IS A LARGE PERIOD". Yes,
Five years ago at the beginning of 1998 the first number of the
magazine appeared (p.22-23).
What the first jubilee concerns, it is observed
in selection articles "EVEREST: 50 years of
loss, victories, myths and dreams. Names. Dates. Facts. Figures" (p.40).
Photo-guide of the magazine "EX" to the highest top of the world
from Tibet, from the Rongbuk glacier, by the way of Mallory and Irvine, along
the north-eastern ridge will be interesting for the climbers. (p.42-44).
main topic of this issue is the rocks of the Ukrainian Crimea.
team "MIXT" (A.Shelkhakov, D.Popov, A.Kuzmitsky, G.Kochetkov, Russia&Ukraina)
made 25 ascents of the 5-6 category of difficulty during 4 weeks of May. They
climbed such massifs as Kush-Kaya, Forros Kant, Zamock, Maliy Kilse, Bolshoi Kilse,
Kastropolskaya Wall, the walls of Morchek and Paragelmen, Angarskaya wall. During
ascents there were made a lot of descriptions, photos and articles. Among them
- the article written by A. Shelkhakov and A. Kuzmitsky "The
Open Crimea: new view at the old walls" is represented in the magazine.
Volkov and Aleksey Larionov (the Ukraina, Kharkov) told already about the routs
of Cheleby massif (EX 2002, ¹ 5). The next towards the East under the route
Sevastopol-Yalta the rock-massif Foros is raised. The authors of the articles
tried to make characteristics of the routes of this massif, emphasizing the special
features, they also described many variants of climbing (p.17-20)
author of the part "Climbing" Konstantin Saveliev tells about his climbing
in Crimea in April. There he managed to ascent Uarch-Kae, and then with a friend
he climbed the line "The Iron Ass". They were the third who managed
to overcome this route (P.35).
3. "To where it unsubdued and towering stands higher than Alexander's column
Alexander S. Pushkin wrote. Alexander Sergeevich wrote these lines figuratively,
Sergei Alekseevich made up his mind to make it real. Climbing the Alexandryasky
Column was the second step of Sergei A. Shibaev's program "Seven
Tops Of St.Petersburg" devoted to the 300-years anniversary of the
"EX" magazine motherland (the article "Column", p.13-16).
Dasha Shapovalova in the article "Save
and Rescue" writes about dangers in mountains, on the water and desert.
She describes the dangers of the ultraviolet and gives the recommendations and
advice on the means of sun protection (p. 24-25).
Ivan Pomidorov tells about courage, achievements, glory and about the back of
all this in the article "I would go to the
mountains with other man.' The details of Russian disabled people on Mac
The market of tents is overfilled. We help our readers to look into the world
of 1-3 person outing houses (p.46-47).
The report "Victories and defeats of the Rock
Festival" is devoted to the unique festival "Climbing For Everyone"
and its ecological aspect. The festival took place not far from St.Petersburg.
These impressions are supplemented by the best works of the photo competition
which is held during the festival (p.8-11).
The history of Russian mountaineering books in S.Shibaev's notes "From Semenovsky
to Zakharov" (p.48).
The Caucasus, the Pamir and Altai invite climbers - the mountaineering camps "Bezengi",
"Uzunkol", "Lenalptours", "Asia Tour".