Urubko: Flyght to the Aim
expedition planned to reach the Kangchenjunga summit in the
short time, but you can be convinced that we climbed direcly
according our advised plan.
18 April we reached together with the big caravan of porters
the place of our Base Camp. It was the large hill, covered
by yellow flowers, on the right side of the Yalung glacier.
There was really high altitude place - about 5500 m. But after
10 trekking days everybody felt good.
day the Korean team visited our camp, and asked us to help
them to bring next day some equipment, which they needed for
the preparation of the route. We were amazed, and agreed.
April our team established the Camp 1 at 6100 m (used only
once in future),
and decscended to BC the same day.
two days of rest we hoisted our bodies at 6500 m of altitude.
put 2 tents and spent the couple of nights, between which
we used the time for the
preparation of the route till 6800 m. There was the deep snow
was the lots of snow in Himalaya this year, but we expierensed
the close situation during many years in Tien Shan. On the
other hand, seraks, crevasses, steep ice, but technical problems
were not so difficult.
The weather was also good enough. In the morning of most of
days we had a clean
sunny sky, but in the afternoon the weather turned bad. And
if we were still working on the route, it was close to the
April we moved down together. We began to work by two separate
groups - 4 and 3 members. Our first group (4 persons) was
working in the 1 day distance before the second group. It
was organized for some reasons - the main from them was to
decrease the weight, needed for organizing high-altitude camps.
some days of relaxation and waiting for the good weather factors
(2 days, which we stayed in the Base Camp, were very bad).
All other expedition's members sat in their Base Camps.
So, after 6900 our team was working ahead , - no Korean, no
Chekh, but together
we made the attempt to the summit of Kangch.
happened 02 May, - after the hard work under the heavy rucksacks
left the last fixe ropes and came to the plateau. There we
set our Camp 3 - in
the 7300 m. Then our four-members group was going through
the deep snow between seracs. During this way we also prepared
fixed ropes, and spent there a lot of time and strength. In
that day, avoided our plan, we reached only 7550, and slept
But next day, our tired team desided, in despite of all circumstances,
to establish the last camp on the Kangchenjunga steeps. Early
morning we reached the the small flat place under the rocks,
wide enough for a tent , where put our small Camp. It was
at 7700 m. The top of Jannu was at the same level. During
the descent to the Camp3 we met our friends, who were going
up for spending last acclimatization nigth before the sturm.
we was tired, but got nice acclimatization and hoped to reach
the summit without
some problems after good rest in the Base Camp altitude. Our
coach Mr. Ilyinskiy
together with us discussed some possibilities in the different
situations for choosing the best strategy for the ascension.
We agreed, that the strong wind, that came from Tibetian plateau
would be the most difficult problem during the ascent the
meaned, that we needed to find our route just below of it.
the normal style we moved up to the Camp 4 at 7700 m. All
of other expedidions started the day before us from the BC
, but we reached the last
Camp together. They wanted to set Camp 5 just higher than
8000 m, but that plan was not conformed, because of extremely
dangerouse avalanch situation. So, in
01.10 a.m., in the midnight our international team started
for the attempt to the top.
helped us when we tracked through the deep snow. Only Maxut,
Vassiliy, Sergey and me were working ahead. Only one Sherpa
just tryed to go forward. It was a really cold darkness around
us. We needed to keep our foots and hands, - in that reason
we tryed to warm them by flaps in the short moments when stopped.
the sunrise we climbed the rocks. Not very hard technical
climbing, but accomplished at an high altitude. We put there
200 m of fixed ropes. When the ropes were finished, we climbed
the steep rocks and snow free. It was like a flyght to the
aim. Difficult flyght, but we was working together - Maxut,
Sergey and me. And at the 3.10 p.m. - after 14 hours of men's
work we stayed together on the summit of Kangchengunga - the
3-rd mount in the World. It was on 8586 m.
The descent was quick. At 7.00 p.m. everybody reached Camp
4. There stayed 3 of our friends, and so there were not enough
space for spending night. It was the
reason for Vassiliy and me to descent to Camp 3, and we reaced
it at 9.30 p.m. It was a finish of very long day on the high
day our second group succesfully reached the summit.
21 May we left the bottom of our dream Mount, and began our
back trekking. We needed to go home, Kangchenjunga, we liked
to be people between the same people, but... But now we know
something, that nobody can understand, something very important...
And this is the present for us from you, Kangchenjunga. We
hope to the Future...