THE NORTH FACE OF TROLLRYGGEN PEAK (1748m)
team is the winner of the Winter All Russia Mountaineering Championship,
(the team of the Krasnoyarsk Region Sport Committee):
Khvostenko - the leader
Nickolay Zakharov, Valery Balezin
preparation from 3 February, ascent - 9 - 22 February, the
top - 21 February at 17pm, descent -22 February (about 8 hours)
difference - 1090m
length of the route - 1140m ( including 850m - 6grade (russian),
and 265m -5grade)
average steep - 82°
days: 19, including preparation (157 hours)
Odintsov - Potan'kin, 1997
route, Khvostenko -Arkhipov -Dmitrienko -Zakharov -Pugovkin
-Cherezov , 2002
route, Ruchkin - Koshelenko, 1997
Wall is located in Norway, in Romsdal region, at the North-West
coast of the country, near the city Andalsnes. Climat is calm
due to the Gulfstream, but very damp, rainy. During 19 climbing
days there was only 4 days without rain or snowfall. The temperature
fluctuated from +2 with rain or damp snow ( which is worse
than the strong frost) at the beginning of the route till
-20 at the upper part of the Wall. Strong winds blow very
the Wall there is the camping "Trollweggen". It
takes 3 hours for the approach to the route (if the path exists)
of the Troll Wall are very rare because of their difficulty.
All attempts to climb the main part of the Wall have failed
since 1998. Only 5 routes were climbed at Troll Wall, and
all ascensions were realized at Summer. The first was the
Norwegian route (14 days) in 1965, than the French route (20
days) in1967, than in 1972 - the route "Arch Wall"
(21 days) All of these routes was repeated not more than 5
times. In 1997 two Russian teams Ruchkin - Koshelenko and
Odintsov - Potanjkin did two first ascensions of the highest
grade (6b Russian) (11 and 14 days) and became the Winners
at the All Russia Mountaineering Championship (Rockclimbing
class) There was the great fall at the Troll Wall in 1998,
so there was no successful ascensions since that.
most of the routes lines are very winding and avoid the difficult
top tower at left or right. We decided to ascent the center
of Wall via the straight line, the upper part of the route
is on the center of the top tower, exactly to the top. The
Wall is very steep. It's the biggest European Wall of such
steep. There are no places for the camps, so we used two portaledges.
The daylight is about 10 hours in February, so 19 days - it's
great result for the winter ascension
descent was very simple, but hard because of the lots of snow.
It took us 8 hours to descent.
head of the team - Nikolay Zakharov. He ascended some of
8000-peaks, including Mt Everest and also the "Golden"
routes of the first ascents such as South Face of Communism Peak
and North Face of Khan Tengri Peak. Zakharov was in many countries
and different continents, climbed the highest peaks of the North
America - Denali and Aconcagua. The New 2002 Year he met at the
summit of Aconcagua in Argentina ( that was his third ascent of
The another coach of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Region - Valery
Balezin - no less legendary person. He is famous as the single
in USSR and Russia Master of Sports of International level in both
rockclimbing and mountaineering. At the last Nation Championship
Balezin took part as the climber in the team.
As Zakharov, as Balezin can be climbers in the team on the Troll
Wall, but for the first time they didn't participate in the ascension.
And it's symbolical - it means the generations of the great alpinists
in Krasnoyarsk have changed de-facto. In spite of Vladimir Arkhipov
(born 1955) was the member of the team.
self-resignation of Balezin, 29-years old Oleg Khvostenko
became the leader of the team. Twice Winner of the National Championship,
Oleg is known due to his composed character, and skill to keep cool
in the very extreme situations. He took a part in the first ascent
to Tsar's Throne in Kodar (Region Baikal-Amur Railway Main line)
in -50C frost. That last year ascent doesn't have the analogous
one in the Russian alpinism history. The team used the "siege"
style of ascent: one party changed another, and descended to the
bottom of the wall for night. Oleg thinks that last year ascent
was more difficult than this one. The second-time Winner Oleg became
last summer (the first ascent North Face Zvierzdny Peak (Ergaki,
Norway Oleg worked in party with Anton Pugovkin. When preparing
to the expedition they constructed the portaledges for the ascension
to the Troll Wall together with experts from Rock Pillars Company
(Krasnoyarsk), so all manipulations with portaledges on the Wall
were the duty of that party. Anton is the twice Winner of the National
Championship too. Tall, strong and hardy man. In the party with
Oleg they climbed some pitches when preparation the route.
Arkhipov. The most experienced in the team, third time Winner
of the USSR Championship (technical class) 1986-88 years - the highest
grade ascents at Yagnob Wall, Moskovskoi Pravdy Peak and Akhun Peak
. He is the Winner of the last year National Championship. By the
way, the Wall such difficult grade as Troll Wall he climbed for
first time. He thinks that the success of the ascension was guaranteed
by the technical and physical training of the team. " It was
very difficult to become the team member. We passed through the
hard and thorough training." Arkhipov worked in party with
the "main climber" Eugeny Dmitrienko. Eugeny climbed ahead,
Vladimir worked as belayer. This role is no less important - you
have to stay during hours, trying not to catch stones or fallen
partner. The belayer freezes most of all on the route.
Dmitrienko - the rising star of Krasnoyarsk mountaineering.
The youngest member of the team. His climbing experience - only
in Sayan - Tuva and Ergaky. In spite of that, Eugeny was one of
the the central persons in the team. It was he insisted on the first
ascent route on Troll Wall, and he worked the first the most part
of the ascension. He was the leader, because he had the highest
tempo in climbing. He was released from another kind of work at
the Troll Wall, beside of climbing - day of the work, day of the
rest. " What a bore! every day the same: climbing up, and nobody
to talk with... So I began to talk with Vladimir, when he climbed
and was in 15m below me. As for difficulty - I've thought that it
will be more hard. I heard terrible stories about Troll Wall. Really
there are some monolith places, but they can be climbed with sky
hooks. Eugeny thinks the team needs to train in iceclimbing and
high-altitude ascents, because he is going to continue his career
on the significant Walls, including ones on 8000-peaks.
Zakharov. Guy, the shortest in the team, the good climber and
the object for the funny jokes of the team-mates. The second leader
after Eugeny. He is rockclimber first of all. "I like to get
pleasure from climbing warm rocks in rock shoes
but here was the heavy work in the very hard conditions. I couldn't
imagine, that anybody can climb at such weather. As special: my
turn to climb - the weather turned bad. Visibility 4 meters, constantly
dry avalanche from the Wall,
it's better not to rise your face" Pavel is the single member
of the team, who is not sure in his participation in such projects
in future. Besides, Pavel's mood didn't influence neither over his
work in the team, nor over his behavior. And it's one of the most
important factors in the extreme mountaineering. On the Wall we
live in two "little teams": Oleg, Pavel and Sergey at
one portaledge, and the other at the other portaledge.
And all "resistance" had the funny character. When the
party worked at the route, others can play cards.
Cherezov. Master of Sports, the Winner of the National Championships.
Psychologically reliable, universal team-mate. Worked first at the
last, unclimbed part of the Wall, at the top tower. But the most
part of the route he worked as the last, taking off all what other
climbers put in the Wall.
Khvostenko & Ilia Naimushin, Krasnoyarsk