|
|
December, 2002 news
29
December, 2002 The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund 2003-2004
Cross-Culture Climbing Exchange Grant
29
December, 2002 Results of the speed ascent to peak Amangeldy
(3999m) (Kazakhstan), devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev
29
December, 2002 Antarctica: Beno Kashakashvili
(Georgia), Simone Moro and Alberto Magliano (Italy) climbed Vinson
Massif 4895 mt the 25th December at 4.00. Congratulations!
27
December, 2002 New guests congratulate you on our Christmas
Tree: Yuri Koshelenko, Vladivostok Alpin Club, Kyrgyz Alpin Club,
ASIA TOURISM company, BASK and Red Fox companies.
27
December, 2002 New number of the "EX" - Russian Extreme
magazine (6/2002)
26
December, 2002 Kazakhstan climbers are preparing to the Winter
Peak Pobeda climb. They have completed the training cycle in Tujuk
Su mountaineering camp near Almaty (including the speed ascent to
peak Amangeldy, devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev's death
on 25th of Dec 1997). Next will be the ascent to Talgar Peak - the
highest point of Zailiiskyi Alatau. Then - Peak Pobeda.
25
December, 2002
The
Mountaineering Christmas Tree Tree is open!
Many stars shine on it!
You'll get a lot of greetings!
Merry Christmas!
|
20
December, 2002 NETIA
K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis Urubko wrote from Kashgar
16
December, 2002 NETIA
K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION have started from Warsaw today.
16
December, 2002
Antarctica: Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia), Simone Moro and Alberto
Magliano (Italy) would like to climb Mount Vinson 4897 meters -
the highest point of Antartica.
12
December, 2002
Photo
by © Gleb Sokolov |
Anatoly
Boukreev: "...The risk to die at the high altitude
is more for the strong climber than to the weak one..."
It will be five years on the end of December, from the time
when Anatoly Boukreev - one of the best World high-altitude
mountaineers and the legend of the Russian mountaineering
- died in the avalanche on the Annapurna. Half-a-year earlier,
in May 1997, in Everest BC on Khumbu glacier, just after the
another tragic event - the death of Vladimir
Bashkirov on the Lhotse - he gave the interview, recorded
on video by Victor Kozlov - about the Everest-Lhotse Traverse
Expedition and Indonesian Everest Expedition and Russian Lhotse
Expedition in 1997.
Published
for the first time. (On Russian only)
|
5
December, 2002
Netia K2 Polish Winter Expedition
will start on the 17th of December from Bishkek. The list of members
2
December, 2002
Fair Play Trophy awarded to Simone Moro. Our congratulations!
2
December, 2002
The
famous Russian mountaineer Victor Zhirnov (born 1929)
has died on the 29th of November in Saint Petersburg |
1
December, 2002
All Russia Mountaineering Championship 2002 - results in technical
climbs and first climbs
29
December, 2002 The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund is proud to
announce the following grant awards.
2003 - Steve House, has been chosen to receive a grant to compete
in a speed climbing event in Kazakhstan
2003
- Valetova Elena Evgenyevna: A young women from Almaty, Kazakhstan
has been chosen to receive a grant to climb in the US in 2003. Schooled
in Economics and Management she works as a Chief Accountant, plays
classical piano and rides horses competitively. Member of the Central
Sports Club of the Army, Valetova has numerous
ascents in the Tien Shan Mountains.
Melis
Coady, Aubrey Knapp, Keri Meagher and Molly Loomis have been chosen
to receive a grant to attend a Russian Climbing Camp near Almaty
and then climb Khan Tengri. This group of American Women are all
NOLS instructors and Alaska guides. Under a grant from the American
Alpine Club they recently completed a ski expedition to Kamchatka,
in Far East Russia. Briefly this is the American Group:
Melis Coady - Speaks Russian, B.A. Central Asian Studies, NOLS instructor,
member of the Talkeetna Volunteer Fire Department, ascents in Alaska
include Denali and Foraker as well as numerous ascents in the Chugach,
Wind River and Cascade Ranges.
Aubrey
Knapp - B.A. from Berkeley, EMS Medic at the Girdwood, Alaska Fire
Department, NOLS Instructor, Ski instructor University of Alaska.
Keri
Meagher - B.S. University of Colorado, Kinesiology. NOLS Instructor,
Instructor at Alaska Pacific University, numerous ascents in Selkirk,
Alaska and Chugach Ranges.
Molly
Loomis - B.A. Political Science, also studied in both France
and Argentina, fluent in Spanish and French. NOLS instructor with
climbs Alaska and rock/mixed climbs in numerous areas in the U.S..
Please
help us make this tremendous exchange opportunity a reality.Donate
at the address below or on line at boukreev.org Thanks
29
December, 2002 Results of the speed ascent to peak Amangeldy
(3999m) (Kazakhstan), devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev
Members
took part - 29, among them veterans - 3, women - 4
Men
|
Puchinin
A. |
1972 |
Kyrgyzstan |
1:20'45" |
1 |
Rychkov
A. |
1979 |
Kazakhstan |
1:24'21" |
2 |
Grinevich
D. |
1981 |
Kazakhstan |
1:25'03" |
3 |
Chervonenko
N. |
1962 |
Kazakhstan |
1:28'14" |
4 |
Zhdanov
V. |
1978 |
Kazakhstan |
1:30'19" |
5 |
Lishenko
S. |
1985 |
Kazakhstan |
1:35'28" |
6 |
Timoshenko
V. |
1980 |
Kazakhstan |
1:37'49" |
7 |
Carimon
A. |
1983 |
Kazakhstan |
1:38'11" |
8 |
Krynin
A. |
1969 |
Kazakhstan |
1:39'43" |
9 |
Mynzhvsarov
D. |
1979 |
Kazakhstan |
1:39'50" |
10 |
Veterans
|
Koval'chuk
V. |
1939 |
Kazakhstan |
1:44'40 |
1 |
Paramonov
Yu. |
1951 |
Kazakhstan |
1:58'15 |
2 |
Piskal'
V. |
1948 |
Kazakhstan |
2:08'15 |
3 |
Women
|
Шарипова
С. |
1970 |
Kazakhstan |
2:09'15 |
1 |
Сатекова |
1973 |
Kazakhstan |
2:22'41 |
2 |
Горбунова
В. |
1982 |
Kazakhstan |
2:31'12 |
3 |
Демкова
К. |
1983 |
Kazakhstan |
2:37'55 |
4 |
29
December, 2002 Antarctica: the message from Simone Moro:
Ciao
Russianclimb!!
I, Beno, Alberto, climbed Vinson Massif 4895 mt the 25th December
at 4.00 p.m.
It was really cold but blue sky. We had wonderful view from the
top....
Ciao
Simone
15
December, 2002 Antarctica. The message from Simone Moro:
I'm still in Punta Arenas since 9 days waiting for the good weather
in Antartica. I'm here with Beno Kashakashvili from Georgia and
Alberto Magliano from Italy. The aircraft "Illiuschi Mirage"
has 2 Russian Pilots but the American company who rented the aircraft
want absolutely good weather and wind condition to transport us
on the ice..... We would like to climb Mount Vinson 4897 meters
the highest mountain of Antartica.
Ciao
Simone
2
December, 2002 The International Commitee for Fair Play - an
organisation recognised by the International Olympic Comittee -
has awarded Simone Moro with the "Pierre de Cubertin
International Fair Play Trophy" for his
2001 rescue efforts of the 19 year-old British mountaineer Tom Moores
on the South Face of Lhotse, Himalaya.
The
awards ceremony will take place on 9 January 2003 in Paris, directed
by the President of the International Commitee for Fair Play, Dr.
Jeno Kamuti. The United Nations Secretary General Kofi Annan will
be present, as will the Sports Ministers of 160 nations.
The
Pierre de Cubertin International Fair Play Trophy Established in
1964, the trophy is awarded to persons or bodies for exemplary behaviour
of fair play throughout their career in the field of sports
1
December, 2002 All Russia Mountaineering Championship 2002 (information:
Russian Mountaineering Federation) - results in technical climbs
and first climbs
Technical
climbs
(15 January - 30 October 2002)
1.
Project "Big Walls - Russian routes" team (Alexander
Odintsov (leader)
+ Davy, Kljonov, Ruchkin, Rozov) - Great
Sail peak (Baffin
Island)
2.
Kirov Mountaineering Federation team (Ilyas Tukhvatullin (leader)
+ Pavel Shabalin) - Aksy (Pamir-Alay), the Center of
the North Face
3.
Moscow Mountaineering Federation team (Serjogin (leader)
+ Akhmedkhanov, Lastochkin) - Serro Torre (Patagonia),
Compressor route
4.
"Romantic" club team (Moscow region) (Dzaparidze
(leader) + Boiko, Dzitnik, Pivikov, Khomchenko) - Shkhara
(Caukasus), Razumov route
5.
Dagestan Rescue team (Murtazaliev - leader) Yerydag,
Caucasus
6.
Combined team (Paskhin (leader)
+ 9 members) - Lhotse (Himalaya), classic route
7.
Perm team (Puchnin (leader) + Malafeev, Popov) - Jaylyk
(Caucasus), Li route
8.
"Sokol" alpclub team, Norilsk (Paveljev (leader)
+ Kartsev, Koltakov, Paveljeva, Toporkov - Dalar (Caucasus),
NE ridge
|
First
climbs
(1 March - 30 October)
1.
Irkutsk Sport Club of Army team (Afanasjev (leader)
+
Khandagapov, East Kupol
(Sayan), North Face
2.
Saint Petersburg Mountaineering Federation team (Korabelnikov
+4) - Sablja (Ural)NE Face Center
3.
Perm team (Puchnin + 2) - Sablja (Ural)NE Face
Right
4.
Krasnoyarsk team (Balezin (leader) + Tsyganov, Dmitrienko)
- West Sfinks (Sayan), North Face
5.
Burjatia Mountaineering Federation team (Kolesov (leader)
+TUgarin, Sherstnev) - p. Argada (Barguizine)East Face
Center
6.
Krasnoyarsk team (Cherezov (leader) + Starov, Mikhalicin)
- Golova (Sayan)East Face
7.
Saint Petersburg Mountaineerig Federation team (Rakhmanin
(leader) + Robozerov, TRoshinenko) - Misses Tau (Caucasus),
East Face
8.
Tcheljabinsk team (Morozov (leader) + Sidorenko, Ustjantcev)
- Parus (Yergaky, Caucasus), North Face left
|
November
2002 news
October 2002 news
September 2002 news
January - April, 2002 news
|
|
|