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Nanga
Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003 PART
1. NANGA PARBAT 
3
- Kinshofer route
Photo - "WORLD MOUNTAINEERING" Audrey Salkeld L
| This
year is an anniversary not only for Everest, but for Nanga Parbat too. Pakistan
will selebrate it this summer - 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Nanga
Parbat. This was accomplished on July 3, 1953 by German climber Hermann Buhl.
He made the final push 1225 m to the summit solo in 16,5 hours. He spent the night
out after reaching the summit and returned to camp 40,5 hours after leaving. This
was and still is one of the greatest Himalayan ascents ever. The
team will ascent by the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face. Ed Viesturs attempted
this peak in 2001 but felt the conditions too dangerous to continue. Now he will
be climbing this route with Frenchman Jean Christophe Lafaille with whom he climbed
on Annapurna in the Summer of 2002. Viesturs and Lafaille plan to climb as a 2
man team but join the Kazakhstan expedition. The technical difficulties of the
Kinshoffer route requires a large team to establish the route. Mirco Mezzanotte
and Nicolini Franko will try Nanga in one day, from the BC to the top. They both
summited Cho Oyu last year, but could not reach a goal of speed ascent. |
In
Nanga Parbat climb Franko Nicolini (Italy), Mirco
Mezanotte (Italy), Oscar
Gogorza de Carlos (Spain) took
part with the team:
they climbed till 6100m. June
29, 2003 Serguey Bogomolov:SOME
RESULTS. June
28, 2003 Simone
Moro:
Also on my fifth attempt, the mountain refused me June
27, 2003 Baglan
Zhunusov:The first step of the expedition
is finished. Today
Ed Viesturs and JC Lafaille came back to BC after summited Nanga Parbat.
June
23, 2003 Simone Moro from
BC June
22, 2003 Photos
from Karakorum June
21, 2003 Inaci Ochoa and
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited Nanga Parbat June 20.
Simone,
Ed and JK are on the route now. Photos from the summit by the second Kazakhstan
group June
19, 2003 June
17, 2003 June
16, 2003 Ervand
Iljinsky:preparing to the summit bid
June
13, 2003 June
10, 2003 Simone Moro from
the BC June
9, 2003 June
6, 2003 June
4, 2003 June
2, 2003 June
1, 2003 May
29, 2003 May
27, 2003 Ervand
Iljinsky, the coach of the expedition, chief coach of Army Sport Club (CSKA):
interview for Russianclimb.com
May
26, 2003
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