Back to the latest news


Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003


3 - Kinshofer route
Photo - "WORLD MOUNTAINEERING" Audrey Salkeld L

This year is an anniversary not only for Everest, but for Nanga Parbat too. Pakistan will selebrate it this summer - 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat. This was accomplished on July 3, 1953 by German climber Hermann Buhl. He made the final push 1225 m to the summit solo in 16,5 hours. He spent the night out after reaching the summit and returned to camp 40,5 hours after leaving. This was and still is one of the greatest Himalayan ascents ever.

The team will ascent by the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face. Ed Viesturs attempted this peak in 2001 but felt the conditions too dangerous to continue. Now he will be climbing this route with Frenchman Jean Christophe Lafaille with whom he climbed on Annapurna in the Summer of 2002. Viesturs and Lafaille plan to climb as a 2 man team but join the Kazakhstan expedition. The technical difficulties of the Kinshoffer route requires a large team to establish the route. Mirco Mezzanotte and Nicolini Franko will try Nanga in one day, from the BC to the top. They both summited Cho Oyu last year, but could not reach a goal of speed ascent.


In Nanga Parbat climb Franko Nicolini (Italy), Mirco Mezanotte (Italy), Oscar Gogorza de Carlos (Spain) took part with the team: they climbed till 6100m.

June 29, 2003 Serguey Bogomolov:SOME RESULTS.

June 28, 2003 Simone Moro: Also on my fifth attempt, the mountain refused me

June 27, 2003 Baglan Zhunusov:The first step of the expedition is finished. Today Ed Viesturs and JC Lafaille came back to BC after summited Nanga Parbat.

June 23, 2003 Simone Moro from BC

June 22, 2003 Photos from Karakorum

June 21, 2003 Inaci Ochoa and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited Nanga Parbat June 20. Simone, Ed and JK are on the route now. Photos from the summit by the second Kazakhstan group

June 19, 2003

Yesterday, June 18, the second group (Serguey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Serguey Bogomolov) summited Nanga Parbat at 1-00 pm. - Messages from Iljinsky and Moro

June 17, 2003

NANGA PARPAT SUMMITED!!! Denis Urubko, Dima Chumakov, Maksut Zhumayev, and Vassilly Pivtsov arrived at 8,30 a.m. at 8125 meters of Nanga Parbat summit.

June 16, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky:preparing to the summit bid

June 13, 2003

News from Ervand Iljinsky and Simone Moro

June 10, 2003 Simone Moro from the BC

June 9, 2003

Serguey Lavrov, Oscar Gogorza and Simone Moro from the BC

June 6, 2003

Serguey Lavrov from the BC

June 4, 2003

June 2, 2003

News from Simone Moro

June 1, 2003

News from Simone Moro

May 29, 2003

Serguey Lavrov from the way to BC

May 27, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky, the coach of the expedition, chief coach of Army Sport Club (CSKA): interview for

May 26, 2003

The first news from Serguey Lavrov (from Islamabad)