The first ascent of the North-West
Face of Gorky Peak (6010m)
Tien Shan, 23 july- 8 August, 2002
Yuri Ermachek, the leader
Alexander Mikhailov, the coach of the team
ascent was the part of the 2001 All Russia Mountaineering Championship
in technical class. Usually there are ascents to the tops high up
to the 5500m in that class, but this year up to the 6500m
team won the silver medals. ( there were 24 pretendents
in the technical class, the teams climbed in the different regions
around the World.) The golden medals won the Moscow team for the
5th ascent of the El Capitan via the famous "Reticent Wall"
High difference -1500m
the length of the route -about 2000m, about 350m 6b
route class - 6b (russian classification) (appr. ED2)
- 23-25 July - prepation
- 25 July - start
- 6 August - summit
- 8 August - BC
Ural's team ascent to Peak Gorky (6010m) in August 2001 became the
very important event in the history of the Russian Mountaineering
and russian climbers conqured about 5000 routes of the different
difficulty classes during 100-years history of the motherland mountaineering.
All of them are included in the official Catalogue - classification
only 51 routes are in the EXTRA GROUP or "superextrem"
in that Catalogue - 6b by the Russian Classification There
are 4 routes, climbed by Ural's teams in that list: two among them
was climbed by Efimov's team in 1974 and 1982, Ostanin - in 1986
and the last - Kljonov route in 1993.
that our mountaineers realized the famous climbs, mentioned in the
foreign media: Baruntse (Nepal), Thalay Sagar (India), Macalu (Nepal)-
Piolet d'Or for the best ascent in 1997, Khan Tengri (Kazakhstan),
Spantik (Pakistan) and , finally, the Lhotse Middle (Nepal) - the
last unclimbed 8000-peak of the World. But those ascents haven't
included in Extra Group of Classification Catalogue by the RMF.
The only new route, made by Russian climbers, which was added last
year to the Extra Group, became Ural's team route - the first ascent
of the North-West Face of Gorky Peak (6010m), central Tien Shan
( Big Wall class)
mountain region is far away from the civilization, has the very
high peaks (till 6995m) and relief peculliarities, the hard climate,
and, finally there are a lot of avalanches all year around - all
of that provides high difficulties for climbers.
- the first unsuccessful attempt of ascent this peak by climbers
from Kazakhs Republic Alp Club
1962 - ascent Peak Gorky via the South Ridge by the "Trud"
team (Vladimir Krilov, Sergey Sogrin, Boris Slobtsov, Vladimir Igosgkin)
1970 - ascent Peak Gorky via the same ridge (variant) by
Ukrainian team (leader -Naugolny)
time of the "Big Walls" began through the 40 years, in
the A. Mikhailov's article "In the shade of Khan Tengri":
...The North-West Face of Gorky Peak can compete with the
famous Walls of Grang Jorasse and Petit Dru (French Alps) in
its beautifullness and difficulty plus it is higher than them
about 2 kilometers. But here, in Central Tien Shan, it is
in the shade of Khan Tengri, the Empire of the Sky, the most
northern 7000-peak at the World, which is near the Peak Gorky
in the same mountain range. We have climbed the North Wall
of Gorky Peak via one of the hardest routes, and I now can
say that it's more extrem than that walls..."
Club of climbers (Ural, Russia)