| United Russian-Georgian
(April-May, 2000, Nepal)
It was the next attempt to find the way to the top of the Lhotse Middle...
The expedition climbed Lhotse Main and is successful. Conditions in
this year are very hard: bad weather, wild winds, a lot of snow,
avalanche danger. So now we do not plan to traverse Lhotse Midlle.
All we are very tired.
Tomorrow we plan to go to find the route up to Lhotse Middle for our
Then we will put off our camps. The most part of expeditions already
going down from base camp.
Guys from MAI-2000 expedition climbed up to their Camp 3 and found
out that the big ice fall destroyed their tent with all equipment
and oxygen. They refused attempts to go up and went down to
Kathmandu. Soon they will be in Moscow.
We confirmed our tickets for June 9, so in 2 weeks we will meet.
Drama on descend. Reported by Lhotse Slovenian expedition
"Viki went first later followed him Matko and Bo tjan. In thick mist
came to rope fixed from south saddle with path to Camp 3. There was
a crush of climbers descending reasoned by bad weather condition so
they didn't secure them to safety rope but continued with descend
freely climbing down a slope..."
Today we all successfully reached the base camp.
May 21 (12:00 local
time), the first climber was on the top. Till 12:30 all the
participants reached the top as well. We places on the top hardly
too small area, after we made pictures and video records, it took us
around 1 hour.
9 our climbers (100 percent of the expedition) reached the top of
Mt.Lhotse. Tthis is the best result and good luck for this year in
The ascent was going on in the hard weather conditions, wild wind
(40 m/sec), which blow up toward the slope, that was the reason why
we had the way down almost blinded.
We could not find the body of Vladimir Bashkirov on the place, where
it was left last year. Maybe the reason is a big snow.
In two days we will make the decision about searching the route up
to Lhotse Middle. Now it is clear that the traverse via Main summit
is actually impossible. We wish all the best to our relatives and
friends who think about us and cheers us up.
Today at 1pm all the team of Russian-Georgian expedition summited to
the top of Lhotse Main! Congratulations!
Today May 21st at 1pm in bad weather conditions all the team of
Russian-Georgian expedition summited to the top of Lhotse Main.
The teammates are:
Nobody from other expeditions summited today. The futher plans will
be defined on team return to the base camp.
The weather is very complicate - the moosson is coming.
The information reported by expedition leader Beno Kashakashvili.
Beno Kashakashvili and Piotr Pustelnik are in good shape and
descending to BC
- Evgeny Vinogradsky
- Aphi Gigani
- Gleb Sokolov
- Alexander Foigt
- Bidzina Gudjabidze
- Valery Pershin
- Yury Baikovsky
- Gela Otarashvili
As reported by Slovenian site www.lhotse.siol.net:
Piotr and Benjamin descended to C-4 at 10.45 pm (Nepal time) and
today at noon (Nepal time) came to C-2. They feels good.
More details about their ascent follows after their return. This is
last information about them.
Today at 6.30pm Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia, leader of
Georgian-Russian expedition) and Piotr Pustelnik (Poland) reached
the summit of Lhotse!
But they are in big troubles because they didn't find needed
equipment and food left by sherpas before. So they were probably
very dehydrated and exhausted case they didn't drink and eat from
yesterday. And they have to return back...
We are wishing them successful descent and return to their camp.
The summit-permit for 5 Russian and 4 Georgian climbers has been
issued and the expedition works according to the plan. There has
been a briefing on the 31st of March in the Ministry of Tourism, all
the expedition's equipment, weighing about two tons, has been bought
and packed and the whole team is leaving Kathmandu for Luglha on the
1st of April to arrive to Namche Bazar on the next day, the 2nd of
April. Six sherpas and all the loads are to be brought there by
helicopter on the 3rd, and the caravan of 50 porters will be formed.
The 7-8th of April are the planned days for getting to the Khumbu
glacier and pitching Base there.
(text from www.risk.ru)
- Gleb Sokolov