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"EX - Travels. Adventures. Extreme"
April - May, #3/2002

Published in Saint Petersburg

Editor - Sergey Shibaev

 

1.1982. The first Russian Himalayan expedition -"Everest-82". It was the 62-nd expedition in the
history of the mountain and the 25-th expedition which succeed. It was one of the most difficult first-ascensions of that time and Russians showed a first-rate work. There were 11 alpinists who summited. At that time the success of the team was considered incontestable even if one or two of the group could reach the summit of the mountain. The USSR became the third country of the World among ascended Everest. During this jubilee year the magazine "EX" will certainly pay attention to "the first" Everest. In this edition you will find a story of ascension Everest by soviet alpinist wrote by Vladimir Balyberdin.

2."The problems of organization and holding of outdoor alpinists's actions." In this article Sergei Shibaev tells about his experience (1990-2000) as a head of the alpinists's training. For those who goes to the mountains for the first time there's a useful advice from the series " What do you need in mountains. Personal equipment."

3. "Ice-climbing in a pit (depression). Wrote by Vlad Pupkov and Julia Gamarnik from Perm. The place of a mine accident became a sport experimental ground for Perm admirers of extreme. At the beginning of January 1986 there was an explosion of gas in one of the mines. A large depression became a result of the explosion. In winter the walls of the depression are covered with ice. Natural Ural ice-falls. Soon this place was found and then occupied by ice-climbers....

4. SKA-5. 1980-1990. The whole alpinist team of the Leningrad army club perished in a car accident in 1978. It happened near the settlement Sary-Tash. After this tragedy the aim of making a new team came up in the face of the club members. There might be a team able to present the city of Leningrad at the USSR champonships in alpinism. Victor Jak tells about appearing a new team in his historical essay.


5.1935. To Dych-Tau "by Mammery".The magazine "EX" continues publishing pats from the
book of V. Ostrovsky. In this edition we present hisstory about his personal ascent to Dych-Tau (Bezengi region, 5204 m, the southwall route) in a duo with a person who has buried his brother. The brother perished on the way to thesummit of Dych-Tau. The partner V. Ostrovsky was A.Maleinov.


6. Anna Piunova from Ekaterinburg continues telling about the climbing stars. In this edition perhaps one of the most famous climbers is presented. One of those who creates history - Linn Hill. "She was brought to the rocks by her sister. She helped to put on a harness, tied up a knot and having given some instructions, "take magnesia, rub your hands ant the rock with it", offered to climb.

7. The season which brought so much good for Russian ice-climbers is finished. One of his main heroes, Dmitry Bychkov, shares his impressions. Read "Cold passions. Part 2". "The Canadian ice-tower is simple, the simple routs - two passages. Many sportsmen failed during dry-tooling. The holes were very trecherous. Certainly, Du Lack was sure of his victory - he is always sure in himself. So in semi-final, almost underneath, he managed to go beside the limits. He used to do such things but never in the final of the Cup...Then Will Gad fell...On the dry-tooling board there were three holds. Two of them were slopping, the third at the very top had a very small hole and seemed to be impossible for climbing. I passed it by. But I was really afraid of slopping holds. Particularly I was afraid to load the first hold - for several times the machine managed to slide down. But after all I managed to climb difficult places. As for Will Gadd he took the second hold and then has thrown himself down. I should say that the board vibrates when you knock your leg in. Will knocked his crampons and the beak jumped of the hold...".

8. "The Ural-Himalayas Spring". In the presentation of Alex Myasnikov.Having decided the problem of conquering the Middle Lhotse the Ural guys are unable to take their eyesoff the walls of Everest. Over the last years the main problem is not in the lack of experience and professionalism, in lack of money. The idea of the Ural expedition was only once partly realized after the crises in 1993. It was Talai-Sagar. At the moment the high sport potential of alpinists can be realized only in common Russian expeditions. The Ural sportsmen are welcomed there.

9. The festival "Vertical" - clash of opinions.- Only mountains! Is it an everlasting topic? Only two
films about water.- Are these films about alpinism? Stuff: surfing, jungles, sharks, whales... Is there something about mountains? These are two opinions about the films of the 5-th festival "Vertical" You ask who is right and whom is to believe? I will answer: believe me, my dear reader

And also: "The right choice of the wing" by A.Sobetov, The laws of tourists's physics" By I.Gurevich, "Extreme girls" and a lot of pother interesting things to read.

 

 

 


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