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"EX - Travels. Adventures. Extreme"
September, #5/2002

Published in Saint Petersburg

Editor - Sergey Shibaev

 

1. Not about ascension on the Baffin's land, not about Russian way. About how to overcome the difficulties of destiny, how to keep the form at the age of 45. Why does the civilization has no future? It's also about the dreams one of the best climbers of Russia. Read all this in the interview of Sergey Shibaev. "PRO et CONTRA of the materialist Odintsov". (page 34)


2. Kamchatka - the story by Arina Nikolaeva. Russian mountaineering began from Kamchatka 214 years ago. French didn't know that they are nation for extreme and didn't climb the Avacha. A veteran of 70 climbs the biggest volcano summit of the EuroAsia. 300 participants of mass ascension: from children to pensioner. (p.7)



3.This summer wasn't easy for extreme admirers. There was a hope up to the end of July that that the season would be lucky and there wouldn't be many accidents. But, no. Everything began from the end of July. Review of accidents of the summer season in the outdoor. (p.40)
The tragedy on Ushba ice-cascade: the notes of the one stayed alive (p.42)

 

4. A 70-years old Alexander Kolchin. He spent all his life in St. Petersburg working at the Technical Institute in the name of A.Ioffe. All his life he ascended mountains. From his first ascending in 1953 up to the summer of 2002 he overcame more than 300 routes. He was more than once a champion of the USSR Mountaineering Championships. Kolchin knew Vitaly Abalakov, sir John Hunt and Michael Hergiany. He climbed together with the best climbers of that time. His students, Razumov, Laletin ascended outstanding routes. Vladimir Balyberdin was the first on Everest. Being a 70 years man Kolchin was full of energy and has a lot of plans. His dream is to ascend mountains as he has strength.
(p. 8)

 

5. Nostalgie over Aksu's Life. V.Puchnin (Perm region), in one of the best stories of the year, remembers happy moments of climbing the Aksu (Shabalin's route way by the "Nose"):
"-All the next day was devoted to the "holes" - more than 100 meters of the 95 degrees "wall". The first climbed here 4 days, he managed to climb this part for one day, though there were some hard moments. The first meters of the "wall" Sasha tried to search the next hole shouting until one of us remembered: "Ruchkin worked here, he is a left-handed person. Look here-" (p. 28).


6. "Happy end of Bezengi summer". The season, as usual, gave much to think of. Sergei Shibaev made up his mind to think over the perspectives of mountain camps' development, about advantages and disadvantages of these perspectives, about the instructor's life. So Serg Shibaev told a story with a happy end. It occurred that luck is kind not only to strong and clever. (p. 32)

 

7. Climbers from Kharkov (Ukraine) Leonid Volkov and Alexei Larionov tell about 15 routes on the Crimea massiff Chelebi. (p.31)

Also: The world climbing in Tajikistan; The one on the Elbrus; The Greenland's meridian; The Paraglading World Cup in Slovenia; Multisport in Russia: development and plans.

 



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