-
Maxut Zhumauev - Shisha Pangma (2000), Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001),
Kangchenjunga (2002)
- Denis
Urubko - Everest (2000), Lhotse (2001) Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001),
Kangchenjunga (2002)
- Alexey
Raspopov - Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)
- Vassily
Pivtsov - Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)
All
climbs were realized wiout supplementary oxygen and help of high-altitude Sherpas Photo
Gallery  to the top
Denis
Urubko: It was really strong climb... It
was a really strong climb. We managed to climb the summit despite very strong
wind. Now I am sure that the Pole of Wind of the World is situated exactly at
the Shishapangma. During one month of our attempts the wind was amazingly strong
making a big challenge from a relatively simple route. The storm continued day
and night, it tried to blew us from the slopes and even in the night we can not
get rid of its noise. When
we started our attempt we met around 12 teams going down. Only six members managed
to climb to the top. In Advanced Base Camp (5600) we met Tomaz Humar, who wanted
to climb Shishapangma together with us. On October 12 we made our acclimatization
attempt, crossed icefalls and established camp at 6900. After one night there
we returned to the ABC. After
3 days of rest we reached 7100 in two days and during the next day tried to pass
the ridge to reach the altitude 7400. But the wind was so strong that I was blown
away two times while trying to climb last 12 meters to the ridge.
| In
desperation we returned to plateau, where we spent two days waiting for weather
improvment. The summit is so close but we do not have a smallest chance to make
a final push. Only in the night of Oct. 25 we were able to start. Eleven hours
of struggling with the wind and we are at the top of Shishapangma. The climb was
especially dangerous on the ridge between the Central and Main summits. By telephone
Simone asked us to use ropes there. We readily accepted his advice. Not everybody
wanted to continue their way to the Main summit (8046) in these terrible conditions.
| |
At 11.34 our team was on the top.
We descended quickly and were in tents at
7100 around 16-00.
Now let the wind blow! Denis
30 October,
Kathmandu Translated
by Andrei Shiryaev Denis
is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA
to the top Expedition
chronicle 29
October, 2002 25
October, in spite of a lot of snow and storm winds, Maxut Zhumauev, Denis Urubko,
Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Pivtsov and Tomaz Humar summited Shisha Pangma (Main
and Central)! CONGRATULATIONS! 20
October, 2002 Simone Moro wrote from Italy: Ciao!
I just received a phone call from Denis Urubko. The Kazakh team reached 6900 meters
on Shisha Pangma and they came back to get rest. They get very strong wind on
the mountain but after 3 days rest they will attempt the summit. The famous climber
Thomas Humar is with them so the team are now of 5 people....
Ciao
Simone
Moro 18
October Denis
is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA 10
October, 2002 Denis Urubko wrote from Kathmandu:
| 
Photo:
Eugeny Vinogradsky | In
the middle of Himalayan autumn season the Kazakhstan team finally received money
from their
sponsors to start an expedition to mt. Shishapangma. This expedition
is a part of the programm "Kazakhstan team on the
highest summits of the world". Unfortunately, the amount was not sufficient
to bring all the team to Nepal. Head coach E.T. Ilyinskiy stays at home. Only
four of us were able to arrive to Kathmandu. The team consist of the 4 members:
Maxut Zhumayev (leader), Vassiliy Pivtsov, Alexey Raspopov and me (Denis Urubko).
On Oct. 5th we've arrived to Delhi, spent a night there and continued to Kathmandu
on 6th. In Kathmandu we had a meeting with ASIAN TREKKING
managers. According to their information there is 14-16 expeditions in the
Shishapangma Base Camp. Untill the end of September Himalaya were covered by clouds
and the weather was bad. Fortunately, the situation became better now and we hope
that the weather will be good on the mountain. Everybody is in a good shape and
full of courage to reach the summit despite our late arrival to Nepal.
Tomorrow
Kazakhstan Shishapangma expedition leaves Katmandu by road and we hope to reach
the Base Camp in two days. We have a tight schedule, since we have return flight
on 2nd of November. | The
political situation in Nepal is generally under the control of the king. In some
remote parts of the country there are still some problems with maoists. But in
the large cities and towns everything is OK. As the chief manager of Asian Trekking
told me, this stable situation is caused by actions of the new king: he dissolved
the parlament, fired the Prime Minister and gouverns alone. We also see lot of
military people on the streets, but this firm control does not influence the life
of normal civilians. Denis,
8 Oct Denis
is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA to the top |
