The team of The Kazakhstan are conquering the highest tops in the world

Chronicle | Photo Gallery | Report


Zhumayev (leader)

Denis Urubko

Alexey Raspopov

Vassily Pivtsov

8000-peaks experience:

  • Maxut Zhumauev - Shisha Pangma (2000), Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)
  • Denis Urubko - Everest (2000), Lhotse (2001) Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)
  • Alexey Raspopov - Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)
  • Vassily Pivtsov - Hidden Peak (2001), Gasherbrum2 (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002)

All climbs were realized wiout supplementary oxygen and help of high-altitude Sherpas

Photo Gallery


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Denis Urubko: It was really strong climb...


It was a really strong climb. We managed to climb the summit despite very strong wind. Now I am sure that the Pole of Wind of the World is situated exactly at the Shishapangma. During one month of our attempts the wind was amazingly strong making a big challenge from a relatively simple route. The storm continued day and night, it tried to blew us from the slopes and even in the night we can not get rid of its noise.

When we started our attempt we met around 12 teams going down. Only six members managed to climb to the top. In Advanced Base Camp (5600) we met Tomaz Humar, who wanted to climb Shishapangma together with us. On October 12 we made our acclimatization attempt, crossed icefalls and established camp at 6900. After one night there we returned to the ABC.

After 3 days of rest we reached 7100 in two days and during the next day tried to pass the ridge to reach the altitude 7400. But the wind was so strong that I was blown away two times while trying to climb last 12 meters to the ridge.

In desperation we returned to plateau, where we spent two days waiting for weather improvment. The summit is so close but we do not have a smallest chance to make a final push. Only in the night of Oct. 25 we were able to start. Eleven hours of struggling with the wind and we are at the top of Shishapangma. The climb was especially dangerous on the ridge between the Central and Main summits. By telephone Simone asked us to use ropes there. We readily accepted his advice. Not everybody wanted to continue their way to the Main summit (8046) in these terrible conditions.

At 11.34 our team was on the top.
We descended quickly and were in tents at 7100 around 16-00.
Now let the wind blow!

30 October, Kathmandu

Translated by Andrei Shiryaev

Denis is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA

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Expedition chronicle

29 October, 2002 25 October, in spite of a lot of snow and storm winds, Maxut Zhumauev, Denis Urubko, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Pivtsov and Tomaz Humar summited Shisha Pangma (Main and Central)! CONGRATULATIONS!

20 October, 2002 Simone Moro wrote from Italy:

I just received a phone call from Denis Urubko. The Kazakh team reached 6900 meters on Shisha Pangma and they came back to get rest. They get very strong wind on the mountain but after 3 days rest they will attempt the summit. The famous climber Thomas Humar is with them so the team are now of 5 people....
Simone Moro

18 October

Denis is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA

10 October, 2002 Denis Urubko wrote from Kathmandu:

Photo: Eugeny Vinogradsky

In the middle of Himalayan autumn season the Kazakhstan team finally received money from their
sponsors to start an expedition to mt. Shishapangma. This expedition is a part of the programm "Kazakhstan team on the highest summits of the world". Unfortunately, the amount was not sufficient to bring all the team to Nepal. Head coach E.T. Ilyinskiy stays at home. Only four of us were able to arrive to Kathmandu. The team consist of the 4 members: Maxut Zhumayev (leader), Vassiliy Pivtsov, Alexey Raspopov and me (Denis Urubko). On Oct. 5th we've arrived to Delhi, spent a night there and continued to Kathmandu on 6th. In Kathmandu we had a meeting with ASIAN TREKKING managers. According to their information there is 14-16 expeditions in the Shishapangma Base Camp. Untill the end of September Himalaya were covered by clouds and the weather was bad. Fortunately, the situation became better now and we hope that the weather will be good on the mountain. Everybody is in a good shape and full of courage to reach the summit despite our late arrival to Nepal.
Tomorrow Kazakhstan Shishapangma expedition leaves Katmandu by road and we hope to reach the Base Camp in two days. We have a tight schedule, since we have return flight on 2nd of November.


The political situation in Nepal is generally under the control of the king. In some remote parts of the country there are still some problems with maoists. But in the large cities and towns everything is OK. As the chief manager of Asian Trekking told me, this stable situation is caused by actions of the new king: he dissolved the parlament, fired the Prime Minister and gouverns alone. We also see lot of military people on the streets, but this firm control does not influence the life of normal civilians.

Denis, 8 Oct

Denis is sponsored by MANARAGA, SALICE, LA SPORTIVA

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