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Report about First International Festival
''Khan Tengri 2000''


In honour of the second millennium, the Central Sports Club of the Army and Asia Tourism organized their first international ''festival'' for climbers and trekkers, ''Festival Khan Tengry 2000''.

The festival took place in the Central Tien Shan Mountains to the East from Almaty (Kazakhstan) from August 6th through 27th.
''Festival Khan Tengri 2000'' included some 520 participants representing nearly 30 countries and included such famous climbers as Simone Moro from Italy, Alexander Lvov from Poland, and Valery Babanow and Vladimir Karataev from Russia. Of the 280 individuals who tried to reach the summit of Khan Tengri (7010m), there were 53 professional climbers, 227 amateurs and a team of 50 acting as guides and rescue personnel.
The actual climb started from base camp on the Inilchek Glacier with helicopter service being provided to base camp for 360 of the participants. It is estimated, however, that only 79 of participants reached the summit of Khan Tengri.

Several dignitaries also attended the festival in their official capacities including: Kazakhstan Government officials, the US ambassador and his family, and diplomatic representatives from Indonesia, Pakistan and Canada

Also featured at the festival were various mountain-related ''extreme sports'' as follow:

1. Speed ascent to summit of Khan Tengri (first such race via the North side)

August 22nd at 6:30am.
Total participation: 7 persons
First place: Denis Urubko (Kazakh Military Sport Club)
Winning times:
North Base Camp - Summit (7 hours 40 min);
North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (12 hours 21 min);
Second place: Nikolay Chervonenco (Kazakh Military Sport Club)
Second place times:
North Base Camp - Summit (9 hours 45 min);
North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (16 hours 00 min);
Third place: Andrey Puchilin (Kyrgyzstan)
Third place times:
North Base Camp - Summit (12 hours 00 min);
North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (19 hours 02 min);

2. Vladimir Karataev was scheduled to paraglide from the summit of Khan Tengri by on August 19th but because of bad weather he launched from Camp 2 (5600m) and paraglided down to the North Inilchek Glacier. Prior to the jump he had waited at Camp 2 for three days awaiting suitable weather.

3. A team of Kazakh alpinists (6 climbers) climbed Khan Tengri by the exposed and highly technical North wall. This ascent took eight days and was very treacherous due to rock fall and avalanches.

4. A Slovenian team attempted a descent from the summit of Khan Tengri but found the section between Camp 3 and the summit too steep and decided to ski from Chapaev (the 5900m peak next to Khan Tengri that is ascended en route to Camp 3 on the col that forms in between the two peaks) to the South Inilchek Glacier, but didn't ski down neighboring Pobeda as they originally planned.

In this climbing season no one succeeded in climbing Pobeda peak (7436m) due to deep snow, high winds and extreme cold. Several days ago a team of Kazakh alpinists come back from the south camp after attempting Pobeda but reported that they had to turn back 200m from the summit due to strong winds.

The festival concluded on August 26th at Camp Akkol (the staging ground for the helicopter ride to the glacier) and included an award ceremony, banquet, demonstration national kazakh horse games, and a disco-type dance for all participants.

A film about the festival is currently under way and will be ready next month. Footage for the film was collected by the 14 Kazakhstan and 12 foreign journalists who attended the festival.
All told, the festival was a big step in the development of international alpinism in Kazakhstan as well as the forging of both business and friendly relations between participants from the various countries. In a word, it was a success!

 

 

 


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