International expedition "Spantik-2000" (7028m) Karakorum, Pakistan

• "Golden edelweiss" prize for the best climb in 2000.
• The first place in Mountaneering Russian Championship 2000 (high-altitude technical ascents).
  
• The climb was nominated for "Piolet d'Or"-2001.

GOLDEN PEAK or SPANTIK is a well-known Pakistan mountain 7028 metres high, famous for its magnificent marble ridge, the so-called "golden buttress". Though all the climbing expeditions holding on for Karakorum Range pass this peak, its bluffy arete is still staying uncrossed, as angle and technical complicacy of the route made the hottest teams of the world refuse its overcoming.

Until the present only one team from Great Britain in 1987 managed to settle their route along the right slope, which is the slightest. Elevation changes make about 2000 meters and the steepest, sometimes overhanging areas are at a height of more than 6500 metres above sea level.

Unicity of the "Golden Peak-2000" expedition is also that for the first time in history is being arranged a climb for a technically complicated route by an international team, including the strongest alpinists of 5 european countries: Russia, France, Italy, Hungary and Slovenia. In current difficult geopolitical situation, when some forces are trying to cut Russia out of european community, this expedition has also an invaluable meaning, demonstrating priority of cooperation principles over principles of rivalry and confrontation.

Russian side suggested well-known climbers from Yekaterinburg for participation in the project, who are our technical national team leaders, multiple champions and prizewinners of Russia and USSR, international masters of sports Alexander Klenov and Michael Davy. ( In February 2000 during international alpinist Assembly, organized by the French federation of alpinizm and rock-climbing under the aegis of the president of federation Jean-Claude Marmiet, Klenov and Devi went through a new extremely difficult route for the legendary Petit Dru. )

Finally the team consisted of 7 participants: two Russians, two Frenchmen:
Manu Guy and Manu Pellissier, and also Erik Svab from Italy, Marco Prezelj from Slovenia and Attila Ozsvath from Hungary.

The ascent was done from the first attempt since June 7 till 18. We were on the top on 6 a.m. Down to base camp - June 19.

Difficulty: 6B (Russian grade) and ED2, 7a, A3 French grade.

Materials from Risk online