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UKRAINE - Karakorum 2003 EXPEDITION

Summer, 2003

The goal: climbs to Trango Tower (6257 m) and Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) 8068 m.

The head of the expedition is Valentin Simonenko, the Ukraine Mountaineering Federation President.

Coaches: Mstislav Gorbenko, Zagirnjak M.

Doctors: Lebedenko and Taran.

Climbers:

Hidden Peak team:
  • Vladislav Terzyul, Odessa, Ukraine. Leader of the team. Climbed 12 “eight-thousanders” (Makalu & Gasherbrum1 to come).The list of ascents
  • Vladimir Pestrikov, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine. Climbed Dhaulagiri, Lhotse in 2002
  • Serguey Kovalev, Donetsk
  • Serguey Pugachev, Donetsk
  • Nikolay Gorjunov, Kiev
  • Mikhail Evtchev, Odessa

They are going to climb the new route on the South-West Face of Hidden (to complete Kukuchka route)

Trango Tower team:

  • Vladimir Mogila - leader
  • Alexey Zhilin
  • Alexander Lavrinenko
  • Vitaly Jarichevsky

All are from the Odessa Alpine Club. They are going to climb the new route on the Northg- West Face of Trango.

The page about Ukraine Dhaulagiri ascent in Autunm 2002

Expedition chronicle

August 6, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:

Trango Great summit! The team - Vladimir Mogila, Alexey Zhilin, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vitaly Yarichevsky - successfuly came down to Base Camp August 4 at 5-30 p.m. after 2,5 days of descent under the rain.

The descent was in poor weather, it's snow upper than 5000m, and it's rain below. The team was met by the support group right near the first pitch. The day after our caravane will go to the capital of Baltistan - Skardu. All are OK.

Vladimir Mogila

Alexander Lavrinenlo

Vitaly Yarichevsky

Alexey Zhilin

Team in Base Camp

Climbing Trango

August 4, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:

Trango team (message from July 31) have to go 3-4 pitches more to reach the "roof part" of the route.

July 25, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:

In memory of our friend

July 23 at 2-10 pm (Pakistani time) the Ukrainian team - Vladislav Terzyul, Nickolay Gorjunov and Serguey Pugatchev - summited Hidden Peak in alpine style, without supplementary oxygen, in honour of their friend Vladimir Pestrikov, who died on this Mount 9 days ago.

Guys made the first Hidden climb in this season. All 15 expeditions in this region were climbing Gasherbrum II that days. We started July 20 from the Base Camp. Details - soon.

July 21, 2003 Vladimir Mogila: Trango team reached 5000 m, 23 pitches. The wall looks like Karavshin, only scales are huge. All's OK.

Evchev

Camp1

Camp 2

Pestrikov

Icefall

Hidden

Gorjunov

July 18, 2003 Members have assumed the decision which wasn't easy for them - to continue the expedition, and to devote their climb to Hidden Peak to the memory of Vladimir Pestrikov who died on the slope of that Mount. Vladislav Terzyul, Nickolay Gorjunov, Serguey Pugatchev and Mikhail Evchev will climb there. The team did all they could to save their friend, rescued him from 6000 m to Skardu hospital, but his injury was fatal. Ukraine Ambassy in Pakistan helped in formalities.

Now it's may more easy for us to went back, but we'll continue our work on the Mount for the sake of our died Friend, for the sake of mountaineering meaning.

Head of the expedition Valentin Simonenko

Chief Coach Mstislav Gorbenko

Team leader Vladislav Terzyul

July 17, 2003 Two days ago, July 15, at 7-45 am, during the second acclimatizing push, near Camp 2 (about 6000 m) on South Gasherbrum glacier under Hidden Peak ukrainian climbers caught the ice avalanche. Vladimir Pestrikov was injured by pieces of ice. Nickolay Gorjunov called to the Base Camp, and doctor Taran, who was there, consulted climbers on the route. At 8-15 they could call to helicopter rescuer service of Pakistan, Adventure Tous Pakistan and Ukraine Ambassy in Islamabad. Ukrainian, Spanish, Polish and Swiss climbers helped to rescue Vladimir to Camp 1 (5600 m). At 11-45 two helicopters got Vladimir Pestrikov and Serguey Kovaljov, who accompanied him. At 14-30 we called to Skardu and understand that Vladimir died... The group is in the Base Camp.

Members and the head of the expedition present their condolenses to the family and friends of Vladimir Pestrikov. He was one of the strongest climbers of Ukraine...

The Coach of Expedition Mstislav Gorbenko.

July 11, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:

Yesterday we made the deposit at the foot of South-West Face of Hidden-peak (at altitude about 5500 m) It was snow. And the day before snow was all day and night around, and finishrd only about morning. Base Camp, the glacier and mountains around - are covered by fresh snow. We hear avalanches. Today Gorjunov- Pugatchev- Evtchev will do one more deposit, and tomorrow Tersyul- pestrikov- Kovaljov will begin to work at the route. We plan to set Camp 1 in 3 days. New teams are arrivind to the Base Camp.

Trango's team have prepared 5 pitches in spite of the rain.

July 9, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:

Trango's team have some problems with information transmission, so they could only call us. Their route has good condition now, and they plan to begin the preparation tomorrow. Our team (Hidden) are in Base Camp, doing it more comfortable. We are planning to set ABC tomorrow.

Vladimir, July8

July 8, 2003 Valentin Simonenko:

Dear friends! We've set the both basecamps under TRango Tower (at 4000m ) and under Hidden Peak (at 5150 m) All are OK, we work according to our plan. The weathe's not so good.

July 6.

June 30, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:

The team is in Skardu, in Concordia hotel. There are no mountaineering expeditions, besides Kazakhstan expedition - they are resting after Nanga Parbat in Shangri-La. Our doctor visited their member, who was ill. We are OK. Alexander Lavrinenko (from Odessa) has a Birthday yesterday - he was 35 - so we drank 1,5 litre of Cognak - for his health. We'll go to Askole July 2 by jeeps.

June 27, 2003 Now both teams are going to Skardu together, and than every team will go to their base camps.


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