All
are from the Odessa Alpine Club. They are going to climb the new route on the
Northg- West Face of Trango.
The
page about Ukraine Dhaulagiri ascent in Autunm 2002
Expedition
chronicle
August
6, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:
Trango
Great summit! The team - Vladimir Mogila, Alexey Zhilin, Alexander Lavrinenko,
Vitaly Yarichevsky - successfuly came down to Base Camp August 4 at 5-30 p.m.
after 2,5 days of descent under the rain.
 | The
descent was in poor weather, it's snow upper than 5000m, and it's rain below.
The team was met by the support group right near the first pitch. The day after
our caravane will go to the capital of Baltistan - Skardu. All are OK. |
Vladimir
Mogila | 
Alexander
Lavrinenlo |
Vitaly
Yarichevsky | 
Alexey
Zhilin |
Team
in Base Camp | 
Climbing
Trango |
August
4, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:
Trango
team (message from July 31) have to go 3-4 pitches more to reach the "roof
part" of the route.
July
25, 2003 Mstislav Gorbenko:
In
memory of our friend
July
23 at 2-10 pm (Pakistani time) the Ukrainian team - Vladislav Terzyul, Nickolay
Gorjunov and Serguey Pugatchev - summited Hidden Peak in alpine style, without
supplementary oxygen,
in honour of their friend Vladimir Pestrikov, who died on this
Mount 9 days ago.
Guys
made the first Hidden climb in this season. All 15 expeditions in this region
were climbing Gasherbrum II that days. We started July 20 from the Base Camp.
Details - soon.
July
21, 2003 Vladimir Mogila: Trango team reached 5000 m, 23 pitches. The wall
looks like Karavshin, only scales are huge. All's OK.
Evchev | 
Camp1 | 
Camp
2
|
Pestrikov | 
Icefall | 
Hidden |
Gorjunov |
July
18, 2003 Members have assumed the decision which wasn't easy for them - to
continue the expedition, and to devote their climb to Hidden Peak to the memory
of Vladimir Pestrikov who died on the slope of that Mount. Vladislav Terzyul,
Nickolay Gorjunov, Serguey Pugatchev and Mikhail Evchev will climb there. The
team did all they could to save their friend, rescued him from 6000 m to Skardu
hospital, but his injury was fatal. Ukraine Ambassy in Pakistan helped in formalities.
Now
it's may more easy for us to went back, but we'll continue our work on the Mount
for the sake of our died Friend, for the sake of mountaineering meaning.
Head
of the expedition Valentin Simonenko
Chief
Coach Mstislav Gorbenko
Team
leader Vladislav Terzyul
July
17, 2003 Two days ago, July 15, at 7-45 am, during the second acclimatizing
push, near Camp 2 (about 6000 m) on South Gasherbrum glacier under Hidden Peak
ukrainian climbers caught the ice avalanche. Vladimir Pestrikov was injured
by pieces of ice. Nickolay Gorjunov called to the Base Camp, and doctor Taran,
who was there, consulted climbers on the route. At 8-15 they could call to helicopter
rescuer service of Pakistan, Adventure Tous Pakistan and Ukraine Ambassy in Islamabad.
Ukrainian, Spanish, Polish and Swiss climbers helped to rescue Vladimir to Camp
1 (5600 m). At 11-45 two helicopters got Vladimir Pestrikov and Serguey Kovaljov,
who accompanied him. At 14-30 we called to Skardu and understand that Vladimir
died... The group is in the Base Camp.
Members
and the head of the expedition present their condolenses to the family and friends
of Vladimir Pestrikov. He was one of the strongest climbers of Ukraine...
The
Coach of Expedition Mstislav Gorbenko.
July
11, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:
Yesterday
we made the deposit at the foot of South-West Face of Hidden-peak (at altitude
about 5500 m) It was snow. And the day before snow was all day and night around,
and finishrd only about morning. Base Camp, the glacier and mountains around -
are covered by fresh snow. We hear avalanches. Today Gorjunov- Pugatchev- Evtchev
will do one more deposit, and tomorrow Tersyul- pestrikov- Kovaljov will begin
to work at the route. We plan to set Camp 1 in 3 days. New teams are arrivind
to the Base Camp.
Trango's
team have prepared 5 pitches in spite of the rain.
July
9, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:
Trango's
team have some problems with information transmission, so they could only call
us. Their route has good condition now, and they plan to begin the preparation
tomorrow. Our team (Hidden) are in Base Camp, doing it more comfortable. We are
planning to set ABC tomorrow.
Vladimir,
July8
July
8, 2003 Valentin Simonenko:
Dear
friends! We've set the both basecamps under TRango Tower (at 4000m ) and under
Hidden Peak (at 5150 m) All are OK, we work according to our plan. The weathe's
not so good.
July
6.
June
30, 2003 Vladimir Pestrikov:
The
team is in Skardu, in Concordia hotel. There are no mountaineering expeditions,
besides Kazakhstan expedition - they are resting after Nanga Parbat in Shangri-La.
Our doctor visited their member, who was ill. We are OK. Alexander Lavrinenko
(from Odessa) has a Birthday yesterday - he was 35 - so we drank 1,5 litre of
Cognak - for his health. We'll go to Askole July 2 by jeeps.
June
27, 2003 Now both teams are going to Skardu together,
and than every team will go to their base camps.
