28 June, 2008 The presentation of the new Victor Kozlov's film about the climb of K2 West Face by Russian team was held in Moscow June, 26. The English version of the film will be prepared soon.

6 June , 2008 Open Russian mountaineering championship 2008

27 May, 2008 Navarra's goverment has acorded to give all 14 climbers, who were in rescue team on Annapurna and to Inaki Ochoa the Gold Medal to the Sport Merit, he most important honor in the region sport. The climbers are Romanians Horia Colibasanu, Alex Gavan and Mihnea Radulescu; Swiss Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten; Russians Alexey Bolotov and Serguey Bogomolov; Kazakh Denis Urubko; Canadian Don Bowie; Polish Robert Szymczak and five Sherpas: Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Wangchu Sherpa and Chhiring Finjo Sherpa.

26 May, 2008 Annapurna. Alexey Bolotov summited Main top May, 19.

All climbers descended to BC May, 24, Four Sherpas descended May, 25. The heli is waited this morning.

Serguey Bogomolov called May, 23 on 16-00 from C2. There were he, Alexey, 4 Sherpas and one Romanian. All are OK. In C3 are Denis and Don. Denis didn't go to C4 because Ueli refused from his help and sayd that he's OK and will descend tomorrow morning by himself. So, Den and Don will descend from C3 in the morning too.

Alexey summited Annapurna I (8091) May, 19 on 12-30 local time. He returned to C5 on 19-00, there was tent, his sleeping bag, stove. Guys descended to C4 already. When Alex came there in 10-00 a.m. next day, he saw Inaki very ill, unconscious and with 4 frostbitten fingers already. Alex don't know where and how Inaki was frostbitten, because when he saw him last time Inaki was OK.

May, 19 early morning they started from C5, which stayed at the very edge of huge crack between East and Main tops. They had to descend 150 m and than to ascent again. Alex climbed first, and when he looked back (he climbed already opposite side of crack) he saw guys, who turned back - he doesn't know why. The weather was acceptable. Soon they couldn't see each other...

24 May, 2008 Annapurna. In spite of all efforts, Inaki couldn’t make it. Further pulmonary complications had worsened up his state, until he passed away at 12.30 pm, local time. Ueli Steck was with the sick Spaniard, trying to reanimate him until the end. Denis Urubko, on a desperate attempt against exhaustion and loads of fresh snow, was four hours away from C4.

Since he fell suddenly ill in c4, Inaki has never been alone. His mate Horia Colibasanu kept him alive until Swiss Ueli Steck, who had abandoned his previous plans to open a new route on Anna and jumped to the rescue instead, reached the tent and took care. In addition, two further back-up rescue teams were already in place.

Right now, priorities turn to those who are on the mountain. Denis is still on his way up to help and support Ueli. The Kazakh had stormed up from C2 at 2:00 am today, decided to reach Inaki as soon as possible in spite of loads of snow on the route. Alexey Bolotov (who had refused to go back down to BC and instead started up again loaded with O2 canisters for Inaki) and Don Bowie have retreated to C3, where they will wait for Denis and Ueli.

Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak are wating for the four of them in C2. The third rescue team comprising Romanian Alex Gavan and Minhea Radulescu, together with a group of Sherpas, who might had departed BC earlier this morning, shall be on their way back down or already in BC.

Conditions on the mountain are currently rather rough. In addition to excess of snow, Bogomolov noted on his latest call today that the south face of Annapurna is wrapped in a thick fog, and visibility is poor.

The rescues at 8000 are not a Hollywood films about mountains... and not always have the happy end...

(Russianclimb together with ExWeb.com)

23 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE.

Inaki Ochoa is very ill in C4 (7400) International rescue team try to help him.

7-00 I just spoke with Serguey Bogomolov. He and Robert (Poland) are in C2. Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2 Other rescuers are going up to C2. Serguey saw three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. Alexey decided to join rescuers, and to help them to bring oxygen bottles to C3.
In that moment Denis turn on his radio, and I listened all the connection between him and Seguey: "Hello, Serguey Georgievich! We're OK, but very tired... very heavy snow... I think, we'll reach C3 in 2-3 hours... Let's have next connect in 10-00. Bye..." I listened as Denis breathing very hard, like on Elbrus speed ascent...Bolotov is incredible!

So, next news in 10-00 MSK. Lena. www.Russianclimb.com

22 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE.

19-25 Serguey Bogomolov has just called from Pokhara. Alexey, Denis, Don and Sherpa (couldn't understand his name by phone - he's going up to bring high-altitude boots for Ueli) are in C2. Alexey os OK, tomorrow he'll descend to BC. Horia and Simon are in C3. Denis and Don went up today during many hours, very big altitude difference and too much snow. Tomorrow they hope to reach C4 with oxygen for Inaki. Heli pilots said that it's too much snow to land in C2, so it's more real to land between C1 and C2 - they'll see and will do their best. That's all. With hope, Lena
www.Russianclimb.com

Early morning today Denis Urubko and Don Bowie flyed by heli from POkhara, landed 4 km below BC, and started go up to C2, they have oxygen bottles for Inaki. Other rescue team wait acceptable weather in POkhara.

Inaki is in C4 with Ueli Steck, Horia descended to C3 - he's there with Simon.

18 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. Fresh news, forwarded by Jorge: "Three climbers are in Camp 5 (7.830 meters), below the east summit and have fixed 200 meters of rope in the final traverse. The weather was cold in the morning and snowfall in the afternoon, but I?aki thinks that they have a good chance if the weather respect them tomorrow morning. He said that maybe they will have to descend until 7.600 meters below a fracture that borns in the central summit. Tomorrow is the final push. The three of them (Inaki, Alex Bolotov and Horia Colibasanu) are ok and optmist".

17 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. Evening: "they are now in Camp 4 (7.500 meters) in the east ridge. The weather is ok and they are in good shape. Tomorrow they will climb until Camp 5 (7.900 meters) and on monday to the summit. It seems that tomorrow they will hace to fix 130 meters of rope between Camp 5 and the final traverse to the summit, but it`s uncertain still. Inaki said that the place is simply incredible"

Morning: Inaki Ochoa, Horia Kolibasanu and Alex Bolotov are climbing up above C3 (6900)

16 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. News came today from Jorge (Inaki Ochoa's web team): Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, the Romanian Horia Colibasanu and the Russian Alexey Bolotov were yesterday in C2 (6.200m), in a new summit push for Annapurna Main Summit. The ascent plan is today in C3 at 6.900m, on Saturday around 7.400m, Sunday at 7.900 meters below the East summit and, on Monday, go to the top of main summit.

15 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev summited on 10-00 local time - it's his 12th 8000-er and the first Manaslu ascent this season.

13 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team: All the team descended to BC! Congratulations! It's the second Svetlana's and Eugeny's 8000-er w/o, and the thirteenth for Denis. They have just called and said they're happy. Tomorrow the team will leave BC, porters are already there. Svetlana: "We started from 7900 on 4 a.m. It was very hard climb for me, especially above 8000. The route is by rocks, I climbed without oxygen... We topped out on 12 a.m. And I was weakened on the descent, couldn't go down at 7900, I've lost all my energy, so we had to stay for the night there. Denis descended to 7400, for three of us could sleep more comfortable ..."

12 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team: Denis, Eugeny Shutov, Boris Dedeshko and Svetlana Sharipova summited today. It's Denis' 13th 8000-er.

11 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, 17-00 MSK: "We're at 7900. About ten climbers from other teams have already summited today. We are going to start to the top on 3-4 a.m."

10 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS 7-47 MSK: "I'm in the tent at 7400, boiling water for teammates. There're nobody in Camp 3. It looks like about 15 persons had gone up to 7800 early today. Many climbers were descending from 7400 today morning".

May, 9 - GREAT VICTORY DAY in Second World War

9 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "Yesterday I was forced to turn back after fixing 150 m of ropes along the icefall above C4. Descended to C3. Today I'm in BC, resting. Tomorrow I'll go up again, the caravan back to KTM is ordered to May, 17". (www.mount.kz)

9 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS today, 15-15 MSK: "Holiday wishes to you! Great Day forever! We're at 6700. All is OK". Summit bid is on.

8 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "We started on 8 a.m. Set Camp 4 at 7250 m. The snowfall lasted all the day".

8 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Yesterday the team began the summit bid (Annapurna East, 8020 m). But the weather has worsened during the sturm - the wind 40 km/h and -20C. Only Alexey Bolotov has reached the top. He devoted his ascent to President Dmitry Medvedev's inauguration. Now all the team is in C5 at 7300.

6 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: May, 2 The second day of our third push. We work by 4-persons team. We're in C2. Snow and wind, as predicted. May, 3: Third day of the third push. It was very difficult, because we hadn't found our deposit. We stay under the serak in the crevasse. We were very cold  We're in C4. May, 4:Today Alexey and Alexander fixed ropes above Camp 4. Me and Dmitry have found our deposit and have dug it out of 1,5 m of snow. We were lucky. Inaki, Horia and Don are in C2.

5 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS today: "We're in BC, rest after two nights at 7400. We decided to go to 4700 tomorrow, to recover on the grass. We plan to start to the summit bid May, 8. Eugeny announces the auction - he sells the oxygen bottle, used by the first summiteers of Makalu - the French team 1955. We have identified the bottle by photo. He has found it at 7800".

the call from May, 3: Denis and Boris have spent two days at 7400 m, today ascended to 7500, and tomorrow will descend to BC. Today Svetlana and Eugeny reached 7400 too and will spend two nights there, and then will return to BC. So, the acclimatization will be completed. All are brave, there's fun atmosphere in the team, with a lot of jokes. The further plan is to rest about 4 days and then start from BC to the summit (planned for May, 9) The weather's fine, all are health. Send greetings to all who support the team with SMSs, which climbers can't answer yet....

5 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: May, 1: Greetings to all with Labour Day! We began our third push, started in four-persons team, only Russians. Now we're in Camp 1. Inaki and Horia desended to BC for the rest, and Don joined them. The forecast promised snowfall, and here it is.

2 May, 2008 Dhaulagiri. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin summited yesterday via NE ridge.

2 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 29. All the week we have problems with Thuraya connections. We have some Thuraya phones, and all don't work as usual... We suppose, it deals with Olimpic torch... Alexey Bolotov, Dmitry Sinev, alexander Lutokhin, Don Bowie and me have set Camp 4 at 6800 and came back to BC. It's great, we weren't sure that were able to manage it, we were afraid the won't find good place for the tent. But we're lucky. Ilya Rozhkov, Arcady Ryzhenko and Dmitry Frolenko can't continue the climb and began their way home. We rest in BC three days now, then will go up. Inaki and Horia are in Camp 3 now.

Blue line on photo - team's rpute with Camps. The second photo - view from Camp 4.

2 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: Yesterday the team climbed to 6700 and returned back to BC. Svetlana stayed in BC at 5600. Today all the team is giong up tp 6700, then plan to ascend to 7400 and 7800, and then, if the weather and power will be enough, they can try the summit.

29 April, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "In 6.15 on the morning I has picked up all my Camp 1 and has left to Camp 2. At 7.00 I has approached Germans tents. I has stopped to have a rest and truncate a bamboo landmark. Bamboo was very hard. In a flash the knife blade has come off and has slashed me on a hip. I felt the sharp pain and something damp downwards on my hip. I had looked at a leg. The cut gaped on the warm trousers. I have sat on a backpack and have compressed a place of a cut by the one hand, other hand have removed the harness and three trousers. The wound bled.

In the Camp 1 I have remained alone. Having turned back, I have seen the last German who just about disappear on icefall. But one person with a gray-haired beard Walter Land (he knows Ervand Iljinsky well) has come and has rendered first aid to me. THANKS Walter!!! I have left my backpack in tent of Germans friends and have begun the descent to Base camp. Each step was given by a pain. In base camp, in the tent I have imposed seams on a wound (by myself). (the blessing my first higher education is veterinary :))) I did not have a surgical tool, but I was helped by friends from the Dutch expedition. Now I hope for a week to recover and see forward the climb! Many thanks to all for the support!!!"

29 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: "We have received all our loads. All is in BC. We did the second push, and reached 6700. Tomorrow we'll go to that point and next day - to 7800".

28 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 26 the team has set Camp 4 at 6800. Inaki, Horia, Serguey and Emil are descending to BC. The weather is worsening.

24 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: The team went up to 6100, spent the night and came back to BC. The expedition loads have not arrived to BC by heli, so the team live without kitchen equipment and food and the most of gear.

24 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 21 in evening was a strond snowfall, we had to clean our tents constantly. Apr, 22 Inaki and Horia reached 6800 and descended to BC. Other 7 guys went up to C1. (exept Arcady, who stayed in BC). Apr, 23 was a hot sunny day, and we crossed the ice-fall from C1 to C2. Now we have to set C3.

24 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin are thinkig over the current situation. After two days of intensive climbing to an altitude of about 5000 m, Valery and Nikolay had to stop further climbing of new route to the West face of Dhaulagiri. From Valery’s message: «The weather conditions are extremely unstable; in the afternoon, it rains and snows at 5000 m, and it is very windy, about 90 – 100 km/ h, above 7000 m. In order for two people to climb such a long and challenging route in alpine style, the weather needs to be much more stable. Otherwise, it becomes extremely risky for both of us. (www.babanov.com)

18 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Russians led by Alexey Bolotov work today above 5900. They have found the way through the icefall due to on, who was here in 2006. Me and Emil descended to BC. Here're Inaki, Horia and Don. We set the mess tent and personal tents to the more dry place. It's snow after the dinner, as usual. There's all our team on the photo.

18 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: The team have reached Hillary BC (4900) today by heli. They're going to acclimatize the couple of days and then go up to the ABC at 5800.

18 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin begin today their climb via new route. They have chosen the West Ridge - the elegant route nobody tried to climb yet, with its steep rock bastions above Italian Base Camp at 3700. The route altitude difference is about 4,5 km. The new route touch the Japanese route (1982) at 7600 m, which leds to the Top. The duo are going to climb the route in 7-8 days and to descent via normal route by NE ridge. They climb in alpine style, without previuos set camps, fixed ropes. (www.babanov.com)

17 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Inaki, Horia and Don have set the tent and descended to BC. Me and Emil Mamedov have done the deposit and are staying in Camp 1. The others are at 5900. All are OK.

14 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: we have set Camp 1. Tomorrow we'll have puja, and then we'll start up to acclimatize and set Camp 2. All are OK.

11 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: All of us are OK. Miss Hawley laughs at our superinternational team - there are one Portugese, one Mexican, one Belgian, Australian and four of in one permit. She says that never there're so many climbers on Makalu in the season - about 50 foreign climbers and a lot of Nepalese climbers will be there".

9 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko's team will fly today evening from Almaty to Nepal. Their first goak - Makalu, normal route (the same guys tried this winter). Expedition members are Denis, Svetlana Sharipova (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007), Eugeny Shutov (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007 and was a member of Makalu winter attempt in 2008) and Boris Dedeshko (has just managed the highest grade technical climb in Kyrgyzstan with Denis - March, 27- 28, Korona 5th bastion, 6 Russian grade).

5 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin and Czeh Martin Minarik March 31 have spent night at 6000 m a the col, next day they came back to Base Camp (4700 m). April, 2 they came back to the Base Camp (3700 m). Next push is planning or April, 7.

28 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin have met Martin Minaric in BC two days ago, and today they are going to the col together.

26 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin have reached BC March, 22. Now they rest in BC after the first acclimatization push till 5000 m.

17 March, 2008 The winter climb of peak 4810 (Pamir) has been acomplished by Saint Petersburg team, they reached the top March, 14. Members are: Nagaev Rustem, Krasnov Dmitry, Polenov Dmitry, Shamalo Valery and the only girl in the team Chibitok Galina. On the photo - route line

12 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri. New route on the West Face is planning by Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin. They'll start tomorrow to KTM. Kazakhs team led by Kazbek Valiev climbed new route on Dhaula West Face in 1991, they summited May, 10 (Valery Khrishaty, Yuri Moiseev, Vladinir Suviga, Anatoly Boukreev, Zaurbek Mizambekov, Vladimir Prisjazhny, Artur Shegai, Alexander Savin, Rinat Khaibullin and Andrew Tselishev, all without oxygen. This year the duo Babanov- Totmjanin will choose the other line.

5 March, 2008 Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Yesterday at 1 p.m. Alexander Ruchkin, Valery Rozov, Denis Provalov, Oleg Khvostenko and Alexander Lastochkin reached the summit via "Compressor" route. Valery Rozov has repeated the base jump today at 12 a.m. from the same site as Feb, 26

MAKALU (8463 m) WINTER ATTEMPT - expedition chronicle (January-February 2008)

8 February, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (11-00 Moscow time):"We're in Sedoa village, between bamboo and bananas. WE have called to Italians - they're in BC, the wind's strong, has blew out the tent in CAmp 1. Guys are thinking about the abortion the expedition".

3 February, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (7-15 Moscow time): "We are in crisis - have been blew off by the wind. Have you ever seen flying Samoilov? That's heart-breaking show. We've got some frostbites. But are alive. Though we had a chance. Tomorrow we'll begin our way to home".

2 February, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (16-10 Moscow time): "Hi! We couldn't survive there. The wind threw us, we managed to go 400 m only in 3 hours. The way back was awful, but all of us are safe and sound. We've just returned to BC. Italians say that the weather was "good", but the next forecast promises some worse days... I have a lot of emotions. the summit was so close - you can touch it... Maybe, it's not my destiny... "

Denis Urubko, SMS (5-30 Moscow time): "We have spent the night. Now we'll drink as much as possible and go up to 7800. Guys are well".

1 February, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (18-56 Moscow time): "We are at 7400 m, We set the half of the tent on the tiny site, sit without sleep, ready for the emergency evacuation. The wind is incredible here. I hope for the morning :) ".

SMS (16-35 Moscow time): "We are at 7400 m, alive".

31 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (15-20 Moscow time): "We reached 6700. Serguey, Gennady and me. All as predicted - the WIND...It's as if we had set our tent on a railroad track, with a new train arriving every minute; passing us by just one meter at the last moment...".

Eugeny Tamm, the head of the First Soviet Himalaya Expedition (Everest South-West Face, first climb, 1982), the son of famous physicist, Nobel award winner Igor Tamm, died January, 26 after the long and serious illness... He was 81. Our deep condolences... Photo by Ruslan Karmanov, 2007

28 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (18-45 Moscow time): "We're in BC. Today here's extreme bad weather. We're planning next push in 2-3 days".

27 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (17-25 Moscow time): "Me and SErguey have reached 7200 m, fixed ropes in some difficult places, and I have already imagined ourselves in the sturm camp... but Serguey felt bad (Probably, there're consequences of quinsy), so we began to descend. I'm in BC, Serguey stayed in camp 6300".

26 January, 2008 Yesterday, January, 25, was a memory day - 70 jubilee of Vladimir Vysotsky. People save the memory of the great poet. There were many magnificent songs about mountains and climbers in its creativity, and we like them. Some songs

26 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (12-00 Moscow time): "Eugeny felt bad in the morning, but the descent attempt was failed due to the hurricane. It became better in midday, so we managed to descend to the icefall. Eugeny is coninuing to BC, I have returned to 6400. We're waiting..."

25 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (14-45 Moscow time): "We reached 6400 despite the very strong wind. The weather stiill to be incredible - storm from the West. We'll hope for tomorrow".

24 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (7-45 Moscow time): "Good morning! The sun rised above Makalu, the wind weakens, Eugeny, Serguey and me will start to the summit bid tomorrow, and Italians too, probably. I has shaved, I shall put on all clean clothes, and is ready for the fight".

23 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (12-20 Moscow time): "Three of us - me, Serguey and Eugeny - have descended to 4800, slept in warm and calmness. Then we returned to 5650. The snowfall began in HImalaya, the wind is weaker. We're waiting the good conditions".

23 January, 2008 THE OPEN CUP OF WOMEN's MOUNTAINEERING TEAMS, July, 11-30 on Caucasus. Press release.

21 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (17-15 Moscow time): "I'm already like crazy due to this awful wind. It seems that the wind becames stronger and stronger from day to day".

20 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (7-00 a.m. Moscow time): "The hurricane will here be until Jan, 23, with wind speed 200 km/h, according to Italian forecast. We have to wait. I've never seen such quick running clouds..."

19 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (13-05 Moscow time): "The wild wind has banished clouds. There is the sun and hurricane on Makalu. We have no chance for the climb now. I hope for the weather improvement - and we'll go up just after it. Gennady is better. He's treating by the starvation".

18 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (16-06 Moscow time):"We had to go against the wild winds with our "4DW" as Astana Motors cars (Astana Motors is the expedition's sponsor). We descended to BC with a lot of trubbles. Now all's OK".

Denis Urubko, SMS (12-05 a.m. Moscow time):"Three of us have spent the night at 6800. And then ascended to 7000 m. The route is in very good condition, there's snow. We returned to BC due to bad weather. Gennady is here, he feels not so well. Greetings to all!"

15 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (8-27 a.m. Moscow time): "Porters and Italians came here yesterday. Today we had puja and open our BC. Probably, we'll go up tomorrow, to 6300".

14 January, 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. Denis Urubko, SMS (8-30 a.m. Moscow time): "We have made the deposit at 6000 m. during the acclimatization push. Makalu La seems very problematic. we're waiting the rest of members in ABC. Yesterday 4 porters came, left loads here and went down. All things here are covered by hoarfrost - it's as we had arrived here straight from K2."

10 January 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. SMS from Denis Urubko ( 11-06 a.m., Almaty time): "Yesterday we arrived o BC (4800) but our phone doesn't work there. Today we are walking at 5400. Greetings to all!"

8 January 2008 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. SMS from Denis Urubko ( 5-25 p.m.): "Hi! We managed to solve all problems in one day, and then flew to Lukla. Tomorrow our team will fly to Makalu BC. The weather's as usually in winter - cold and clear. Good luck for all!" Serguey Samoilov was 50 Jan, 4.

8 January 2008 We would like to inform everyone that, 12.30.2007 act of terrorism have been committed against  Mr.Gia Tortladze, Georgian mountaineer, President of International Mountaineering Association. Gia Tortladze is  Georgian MP and Leader of opposition party "For United Georgia". 10 pm the bomb has been exploded under Mr.. Tortladze's car. Fortunately nobody have injured. It is our aim to inform International Community about this fact; We think, people's opinion over the world is only chance to stop Governmental Violence and Human Rights Abuse in Georgia.

Press-centre of International Mountaineering Association

28 December 2007 Makalu (8463 m), Winter climb. The team of the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army is going to Makalu via normal route. Members: Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov, Eugeny Shutov and Gennady Durov. Expedition sponsor: Astana Motors.

Three days ago Denis won the traditional Annual Amangeldy speed climb competition near Almaty - the race in Boukreev's memory. The second was Sayat Satybaldiev, The third - Andrew Puchinin. Ekaterina Chervonenko was the Winner among women, the second - Svetlana Sharipova, the third - Maria Popova (Bishkek).

25 December 2007 10 years ago Anatoly Boukreev and Dmitry Sobolev died in avalanche on Annapurna (8091) slope. This's a photo of memorial under the route. Today the other memorial - the bell - was set on the top of Katyrbulak peak near Almaty - Anatoly trained there every day, when lived in Kazakhstan. Photo by Alexander Chechulin: Katyrbulak peak and the memorial bell.

25 November 2007 K2 West Face climb was awarded by the first Russian Piolet D'Or yesterday. The ceremony was held in Moscow. The Winner has been chosen in "Hamburg score" by the leaders of all 13 nominee teams, without any special juri. The second place has Jannu climb, the third - Shingu Charpa. Pictures by Serguey Shibaev.

Piolet D'Or

Nickolay Totmjanin, the team leader of K2 West Face team

The legend of "Hamburg score" is described by Russian writer Victor Shklovsky in the novel about "the original system of values, free from momentary circumstances and mercenary interests " about circus fighters of the end XIX - the beginning of XX centuries - they usually defined the winner of fight in advance arrangement, but once a year met in Hamburg tavern, far from public and employers for the fair battle to find out who from them is the strongest true". They locked doors, curtained windows and struggled fairly, " without fools ". Further, under spotlights, on public, the elegant handsome man effectively threw through a hip other huge athlete, or " Mr. X " won fight against the known champion... But in Hamburg, for themselves, fighters understood, what they cost, who is truly the first, and who is only ninety ninth. "..

Not so many Russian climbers like the name "Piolet D'Or" for the National Award. Pavel Shabalin has offered, that the following year competition would named "Titans battle ", with the titanic ice-axe as a prize (Russian manufacture (Kirov) - original, beautiful and especially Russian thing...- and no gold...

25 November 2007 In addition to published statistics of 8000+ climbs records : Vladimir Bashkirov (Russia) climbed in 12 months and 3 days Makalu (May, 23 , 1996), Cho Oyu (September, 23, 1996), Shisha Pangma Cetral (Oct, 10, 1996), Everest, South normal route (April, 24, 1997), Lhotse (May, 26, 1997), where he died during the descent. (his other 8000+ climbs are Annapurna in 1991, Everest in 1993, Dhaulagiri in 1995)
Anatoly Boukreev (Kazakhstan) accoplished 17 8000+ climbs in 7 years and 2 months, among them are: Everest, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu in 1995, Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse and Cho Oyu in 1996, Everest, Lhotse, Broad peak, Gasherbrum II in 1997. He died on Annapurna in 1997. He also climbed Everest in 1991, K2 in 1993, Makalu in 1995 (twice in 15 days), Dhaulagiri in 1991. (info Russian mountaineering Encyclopedia)

18 November 2007 First Russian Piolet D'Or for 2007 best Russian climb will be awarded Nov, 24 in Moscow.

4 October 2007 K2 Denis and Serguey. The duo is in the Base Camp. Denis wrote that they started from C4 via Japanese couloir, reached the top on 5-30 pm. and descended to C4 on about 2 am and began the descent further on 6 am

3 October 2007 Boris Korshunov (72) summited Cho Oyu yesterday on 4 p.m. solo. He left Camp 2 at 7100 on 9 a.m. and planned to reach Camp 3 at 7500, but didn't find his tent there and decided to climb further, so he started from C3 on midday, and summited on 4 p.m. Today he descended to ABC. (www.7summits.ru)

3 October 2007 K2 Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis, 4-40 p.m. (Moscow time): We are on the glacier, in the tent. All's OK. Tomorrow we'll try to return to BC.

SUMMIT!!! SMS from Denis, 5-30 a.m. Moscow time: We're in C4, begin the descent. Yesterday we reached the top.

Congratulations for this great duo!

1 October 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. 2 p.m. Moscow time. Karl Gabl from Austria give me the weather forecast for K2:
the meteorological model shows nearly continous mostly light snowfall in the next days till Saturday. The wind situation: In the night to Tuesday windspeed up to 100 km/h and also the whole following week till Friday
stormy conditions prevail. The average windspeed is around 80 /km/h on Top of K2 (mostly direction Southwest). In 7000 m wind should be around 40 to 50 km/h.

October, 1 SMS from Denis, 0-30 p.m. Moscow time: We're in Camp 4. The weather's very bad, no visibility. If the weather'll give us the chance, we'll go up tomorrow.

September, 30 SMS from Denis, 3-00 p.m. Moscow time: We reached Camp 3. The weather's clear, windy, cold. We feel fine.

September, 29 SMS from Denis, 2-00 p.m. Moscow time: We have to finish our ambicious plan: we can't reach K2 North Ridge due to avalanche danger. We decided to climb normal route. The weather's very bad. We reached Camp 2.

September, 28 SMS from Denis, 2-00 p.m. Moscow time: The weather's bad, avalanches on K2 North Face, too dangerous. We'll wait here 2 days, then will try to cross to the normal route (NW ridge, Japanese) because
we wouldn't reach that route from the BC in such deep snow.

September, 28 SMS from Denis, 12-00 a.m. Moscow time: Is there the weather improving in nearest days?
We're in so bad conditions here - it's horrible... It looks like this blizzard finish only in Spring...

September, 28 SMS from Denis, 8-00 a.m. Moscow time: the snow blizzard began today night, no visibility now,
avalanches are falling from the North Face. We're obliged to wait 1-2 days. We're chronically unsuccess in this expedition...

27 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey.
SMS from Denis, 5-40 pm Moscow time: We will start tomorrow. There will be no messages and sms from us during 10 days/ we'll leave our thuraya phone here, on the glacier. We feel well.

SMS from Denis, 2-40 pm Moscow time: we are under the beginning of our route. Waiting the affordable weather, but... here's real winter. But we hope for a chance for our new route...

24 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis, 5-30 p.m. (Moscow time): "Hi, we are burning down fires, hearing "The voice of Russia" by radio. The weather is bit better today. We decided to fight. We'll leave the base camp the day after tomorrow, and will go up to the foot of the mountain. Food, gas, health - all is OK".

Photo: red line - the route which Denis and Serguey will begin to climb tomorrow

23 September 2007 SMS from Denis, 6-15 a.m. Moscow time: "My mother's birthday! I want a holiday! Eagles returned here again. Samoilov is sewing, eating, sleeping. The temperature was -30C, but we expect more extremal. I tired to sit in the base camp. Strong wind, low visibility, cold, rain, boredom... I feel as a caged animal. I think, it won't finish soon".

19 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis, 3-30 p.m. (Moscow time): We're resting well. The trees became yellow, the birds have left this place. Jan Schnidrig came to our Base Camp (he did the first climb on Gasherbrum II with Ueli Stick) Our cook is cooking tasty. I'll begin my trainings tomorrow. Serguey is reparing his old mittens. Our cook suggests us to try the Chinese vine, Jan suggests beer, but we refused, because are "alcogolized" by 8000 m yet... Today we finally choosed the line of our future route.

17 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Acclimatization is completed. Denis and Serguey are at 4700 - as they sms-ed on 8 p.m. today. Tomorrow they'll descend to the Base Camp - to rest, to eat, to drink, to prepare to the new route. Samoilov feels better, he's already about full recovered after his bronchitis.

16 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Acclimatization on Japanese route. SMS from Denis 15-00 (Moscow time): "We reached 8300, but there was very dangerous avalanche prone snow, so we turned back. Now we're in C4. All's OKl" Two days earlier Denis and Serguey climbed to C3. "The weather's good, we see Nanga, Latoks, Pamir...The world as on a palm! But it's more snow than were two weeks ago when Kazakhs climbed". Guys have to complete their acclimatization, then rest about 5 days before start to new route. But the weather forecast shows very bad weather after Sep, 19. On Saturday Denis and Serguey reached Camp 4. In the evening they went up to look at the couloir which led to the summit, find the way to the glacier and decided to start on 5 a.m. for the summit attempt - as Denis wrote in SMS on 7 pm when the duo returned back to the C4 tent. He added, that they're afraid of cold, because didn't plan summit bid when left BC and haven't enough warm clothes for it.

13 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis 17-00 (Moscow time): "Wow! We congratulate Semjon and Roman, and also both Sergueys (Elbrus Race winners - ed. note). We're in C2, feel excellent. We have found our deposit, drink a lot of water, eat a lot of food. Greetings to all". 

12 September 2007 Elbrus Race 2007.

Organizers: www.Russianclimb.com and Top Sport Travel (www.sklon.ru) The results:

"Extreme" class (Azau (2400) - West Top (5642). 4 climbers started, 2 of them reached the top. Semjon Dvornichenko (Kyrgyzstan) - 4 hours 18 minutes.

Serguey Surmonin (Russia) 6 hours 14 minutes (he run 6 hours 22 minutes last year)

"Classics" class (Bochki (3700) - West Top (5642): 12 climbers started

Winners are: Roman Gubanov (Russia) 2 hours 51 min (1), Seliverstov Serguey (Kyrgyzstan)2 hours 53 min (2), Fursov Serguey 3 hours 14 min (3)

12 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. 12 September 2007 SMS from Denis 11-00 (Мoscow time): The second day the weather's good. But here's a lot of snow (waist-deep), avalanches. We reached C1 via normal route and are planning to climb further. We're very tired.

10 September 2007 SMS from Denis 11-00 (Almaty time): We have food and gas for 4 days, and deposit in C2. But it's a problem that all our clothes is wet.

9 September 2007 SMS from Denis 11-00 (Мoscow time): Serguey is fine already, he recovered. We're under K2 at 5200, the weather is bad, there's half-meter fresh snow layer on the glacier , avalanche danger. We're waiting to continue our acclimatization.

5 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis: we're in BC. Serguey tries to treat his illness, we both are brave and hope to climb K2 . There're warm in BC, we eat apples, meat, see films together with Kazakhs team, wash our clothes. I'm very thankful for SIVERA company for the warm. comfortable and light weight equipment.

3 September 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS from Denis: yesterday we climbed till 6600 (our acclimatization push along NW ridge). Two days ago we have met Bogomolov and Puchinin - they were descending to BC. Today Serguey Samoilov felt ill - abscess bronchitis. He doesn't understand how he has cought the infection... We descended to the glacier, and will try to treat him, but we're not sure about further climb.

2 September 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.Radio contact 10.00 (Almaty time) Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev are descending - three nights at 8400, the last without the stove, chest=deep snow. difficult rocks... K2 appeared stronger than climbers, in spite they did their best... (www.mountain.kz)

1 September 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.Radio contact 10.00 (Almaty time) Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev pitched the tent at 8400, fixed 200 m above it. (www.mountain.kz)

31 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.Radio contact 10.00 (Almaty time) Puchinin is descending, now he's about 7500 and feels well. Serfuey Bogomolov turned back at 8200 too. Pivtsov and Zhumayev are climbing further. Puchinin has to wait Bogomolov and then both will descend to the "Tooth"

Radio contact 8-00 (Almaty): We spent the night in C4. YEsterday we fixed 400 m uo alomg the rocks and appeared under the rock wall. We begin to climb it and to find the way. Angrew Puchinin turned back.

Ervand Iljinsky looks on climbers in binoculars from the Middle Camp and corrects the direction.(www.mountain.kz)

30 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. 12-00: Serguey Bogomolov radioed that the team climbed 3 ropes above C4. They decided to try to reach the summit over the rocks, because the original Japanese way is too avalanche-prone, the current conditions in qouloir are not good enough for the climbers. (www.mountain.kz)

29 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Today the Kazakh team is ascending to Camp 4. The weather becames better (all the way to C3 they did in the very bad weather - snow blizzard, strong wind) They hope for the summit bid tomorrow or the day after.
4 p.m. radio contact with the team: they were about 100 m below C4. The main problem is to find the safe way from the ridge to the glacier. Last time they have found the couloir, but it was too dangerous. Now, after snowfalls, they hope that the couloir is safe enough, in other case they have to overcome via the rocks.

27 August 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS Aug 26, 15-15: Urubko and Samoilov have reaxhed BC with camels caravan, now they begin the acclimatization push in spite of bad weather.

27 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team began theit summit bid 2 days ago, but the weather's bad, so Serguey Brodsky and Alex Sofrygin are back in BC. Others are on the route above C1.

22 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. 8 p.m. local time. All climbers are safe and sound. Shabalin and Tukhvatullin are in C1, Mariev and Popovich are in BC, others are in ABC.

22 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

15-00 Pavel Shabalin and Iljas Tukhvatullin are on the top!!!

12-50 Victor Volodin, Gennady Kirievsky and Vitaly Gorelik are on the top!!

11-50 Eugeny Vinogradsky on the top!!!

11-10 Gleb Sokolov is on the top!!!

10-45 Nickolay Totmjanin and Alexey Bolotov are on the top!!!

10-15 a.m. The ascent is continuing

8-15 a.m. 7 climbers are going up from C6. Pavel and Iljas are preparing to start up in C7.

21 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

6-15 p.m. Two summeteers are in C6. There're also 7 climbers. Shabalin and Tukhvatullin will spent the second night at 8400 without oxygen.

4-15 p.m.
Mariev and Popovich descended to C7, where Shabalin and Tukhvatullin are. Seven climbers are in C6. Penzov, Shamalo and Cherny are in ABC

Summit!!! 12-50 radio contact with Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich - they're on the top.

20 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

6 p.m. Shabalin's group are in Camp 7 at 8400. 4 climbers are in C6 at 8150 m. Three climbers are in C5. Two climbers descended - Valery to ABC, Serguey to C3

4 p.m. Shabalin's group begins to set Camp 7 at 8400. 4 climbers will reach C6 soon. Three climbers are in C5. Two climbers are descending...

2 p.m. Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich are ascending above Camp 6. Volodin - Penzov and Sokolov - Vinogradsky - Gorelik are ascending to C6 Valery Shamalo is descending, he is below C2 already

12-00 The visibility became better. Shabalin's group is heading up from C6. Bolotov-Totmjanin-Kirievsky reached C5. Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik-Penzov-Volodin are climbing to C6.

10-15 Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich waiting in C6: too heavy mist, poor visibility. Totmjanin - Bolotov - Kirievsky are close to C5.

8-15 Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich left C6 on 6 a.m., climbed more than a hour, but had to turn back to their tent - there's deep mist, and visibility is only 50 m, and wind impulses are too strong. They're waiting the weather improving in C6. Penzov - Volodin - Sokolov - Vinogradsky - Gorelik are leaving C5 for C6. Valery Shamalo begins the descent from C5 according to the recomendation of the doctor Vinogradsky. Totmjanin - Bolotov - Kirievsky left C4 for C5.

19 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. The summit push is on! all are going up.

19 August 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Urubko and Samoilov are in Ilik (China) and begin thei way to K2 BC by camels.

18 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Serguey Bogomolov called from BC: all the team is here. we rest and wait next weather window.

15 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. SMS from Serguey Bogomolov: Today the team sat in Camp 4 all the day. There was no visibility, and the wind was strong. Climbers will decide tomorrow what to do further.

Yesterday the team set Camp 4 at 7800. Then reached 8050 m. Chest-deep snow. Avalanche danger. Serguey Bogomolov has just written: we're sitting at 7800. The weather is zero... There're no perspective...

14 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Victor Kozlov called from BC today evening: Sokolov's group retreated from C5 to ABC, Shabalin's group is in C1. Volodin - Shamalo-Penzov asended to ABC. Strong wind.

14 August 2007 The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible. Arthur C. Clarke

K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Urubko and Samoilov departed tomorrow morning from Almaty to Bishkek. THen they'll go to China border.

14 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Victor Kozlov called from BC today morning: Sokolov's group is in C5, Shabalin's group is in C1. Strong wind.

13 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Both groups are working on the route. Aug, 12 they reached 7500-7600 m and set the tent, but hope to set C4 at about 7750. Yesterday they continued to climb (no news yet)

12 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Totmjanin - Kirievsky - Bolotov are in BC. Sokolov - Gorelik - Vinogradsky are in C5.

11 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Totmjanin - Kirievsky - Bolotov are in ABC.

10 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Difficult rock became the barrier only 100 m below the summit. Exhausted climbers began to descend. All are in C6 already.

Frontline trio left C6 on 5 a.m. and goes toward the summit through the very deep snow

9 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.Hard work in the deep snow. The trio Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky and Nickolay Totmjanin are heading to K2 summit.

8 August 2007 Krasnoyarsk Trango - Broad Peak - expedition. Aug, 5 the team set camp at 7100. Three days after that guys waited when the snowfall and storm wind stop, but both continued last night too. The slope heading to the col at 7800 is too avalanche dangerous. The team has to abort their work on the Broad peak - porters will come Aug, 10.

8 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. After the rest in BC the half of the team started yesterday to climb the route. Now the weather's bad yet, but they hope for the true forecast for next days. THey need to set Camp 4. More pictures

7 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. They're still in C5. THe weather's too bad - snowfall and hard wind.

6 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Three climbers are in C5

5 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Alexander Korobkov has been evacuated from BC

3 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. So, it'a a time for the finish push. It's the very hard wind at high altitude now, but the duo Alexey Bolotov and Gennady Kirievsky is ascending from C1 and the trio Nickolay Totmjanin - Valery Shamalo - Victor Volodin is ascending from ABC. They hope to reach C5 and then begin their summit bid as soon as the weather improves.

3 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The storm on the Mount. The first trio descended to BC yesterday in 12 hours. The trio Brodsky, Bogomolov and Puchinin reached yesterday C3 (7100), brought 700 m of ropes for the way to C4. At night the storm began. The avalanche hited the tent and broke it but nobody was injured. All are descending.

2 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team set Camp 3 at 7100 yesterday.

30 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team set CAmp 2 and fixed 500 m above it.

30 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. The bastion has been climbed, but the West Face is continuing ...

26 July 2007 Nanga Parbat, Byelorussian expedition: July, 19 Anatoly Lutov, Vladislav Kagan, Serguey Statsevich and Mikhail Melnikov reached the summit.

25 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Trango - Broad Peak - expedition. After two great Trango routes the team begins their first 8000 climb. Today all team (11 climbers) will spent night at 6200. By the way, other Krasnoyarsk team became the All-Russia Champion in Rock class two days ago - the Champioship took place on Caucasus, in Tsey region.

25 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Camp 5 has been set, but the bad weather put the breakes on the climb

24 July 2007 Denis Urubko and four members of his team summited Khan Tengri yesterday and descended to BC today.

24 July 2007 Broad peak. Two members of International (Russian-Latvian) expedition - Vladimir Belousov and Serguey Duganov summited BP July, 20 on 2 p.m. Other members were planning summit bid next day, but were turned back by bad weather.

20 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: 6 p.m. radio comm: all four climbers are back in C4, in their snow cave. Yesterday, when they reached C4, they didn't find their tent... Had to dig the snow cave. When have dug, found the tent under the snow - it was absolutely broken, but all equipment inside was ok.

The first Russian duo reached K2 summit via normal route on 3-03 p.m. local time. The second duo summited after them. Climbers' names: Nickolay Kadoshnikov, Victor Afanasjev, Roman Gubanov and Alexander Eliseev. Congratulations!

18 July 2007 Caucasus, Dzhangi Tau East. The experienced Czech climber Karel Pilh fell to his death from the altitude about 4700 when descended from the top. His wife Pavla Pilhova witnesed all. Russian climbers who went down behind the Czech pair, helped Pavla to descend to BC.

18 July 2007 Lenin peak (7134). July, 13 1990 the huge avalanche caught 43 climbers in camp at 5300, when they're sleeping... Most of them were from Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) The long search didn't give results - all were lost... And today the member of the team of Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army Alexander Chechulin, who climbs Lenin peak now, called and said that at 4200 large numbers of bodies of that avalanche victims appeared on the surface in the result of glacier move down and melting...

18 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Rescue from 7500.

16 July 2007 Double success on Trango! Two routes climbed by Krasnoyarsk team! The second team, led by OLeg Khvostenko (+ Vladimir Arkhipov, Yuri Glazyrin, Denis Prokofief, Serguey Cherezov ana Alexander Yanushevich), climbed in very bad weather, but they reached the summit today on 11-00 local time. On 13-00 they descended to their bivy and continued to went down. Now guys spend night on the small ledge. The young Krasnoarsk team is preparing for future wall climbs on 8000-ers. This's their first visit to Karakorum. More pictures on http://www.russianclimb.com/russian/krasnoyarsk_broad.html

15 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Climb diary July, 8-14.Some ropes more - and climbers would see the top of their dream - they can't see it from the bastion yet.As Nickolay Totmjanin said by phone, icy-covered rocks on the route above are also the very difficult barrier, and the climbers are under the altitude pressing already. But they can see also as the ridges from the left and right become closer ...I wrote the schematic route line on the Japanese photo - you can see the whole bastion and how long it remaines still to the top - E.L.

14 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition:All the team rest in BC. Four-men group led by Nickolay Kadoshnikov, set Camp 4 at about 8000 m on the Shoulder. All team descended to BC.

13 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Serguey Brodsky, Serguey Bogomolov, Andrew Puchinin and Malik Ismetov set Camp 1 at 5700 yesterday

12 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. Today one of the teams has summited Trango and completed the new route on NW Face. The coach Nickolay Zakharov called from BC late evening: "Four-men team - Mikhalicyn, Beljaev, Loginov and Komissarov - had in the morning received the forecast promised very bad weather,
left all their capming equipment, started to the summit and climbed the rest pitches very fast. They reached the top, and descended back to the camp. They're very tired, and I persisted they stayed there, but guys decided not to wait snowfalls and descended to BC in the darkness.

The other team led by Oleg Khvostenko, climbed today 4 ropes and we hope tomorrow they'll climb the rest difficult pitches. But all depends from the weather - now the sky's already covered by clouds".

10 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: Roman Gubanov and Alexander Eliseev set Camp 3 (7400) on K2 yesterday. Today they're going down, but next two groups led by Nickolay Kadoshnikov and Ivan Aristov, are going up - the want to set Camp 4.

10 July 2007 Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North. The letter to the sponsor.

10 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition NW Face of Great Trango Tower. Good weather! Yesterday Khvostenko's team (Ukraininan route) climbed 5 very hard ropes and descended to the portaledges. Today they took all equipment and climb further, and are planning to reach the "roof" of the first bastion. The second team, led by Mikhalitcyn (first climb) spent night on 21 rope under the first rock bastion. They have to climb three steep rock bastions with common height difference about 1000 m.

9 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Climb diary July, 1-8. The team set Camp 4 and climbed 7 ropes after it.

8 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team carried loads from BC (3900 m) to ABC (5000 m) by themselves, because porters wanted too much money for their help.

8 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. It was rain all the night, and the wind's strong. The guys decided only to prepare the route but to spend the night at the same place as yesterday. But the rain stopped in the morning, so the both teams took off their portaledges and began to climb. But on 9 a.m. they announced that this's the canjoning - climbers were ascending via narrow chimney under the real waterfall. They couldn't work after the midday and sat in the portaledge. Meantime Khvostenko's team (Ukraininan route) climbed successfully and set the portaledge after the 25th pitch. But the sun began to shine after 4 p.m. and climbers could to climb 3 ropes more.

7 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. The second team - A. Mikhalitcyn, E. Beljaev, I. Loginov and A. Komissarov - began climb the new route on NW Face Great Trango. Today they climbed 11 pitches, spent night on 7th.

Khovstenko's team climbed 15 pitches yestarday and set the portaledge on the end of 14th. Today they climbed 4 pitches moe (the weather's very bad)

6 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition The team Oleg Khostenko, Vladimir Arkhipov, a. Litvinov? Y/ Glazyrin, S. Cherezov and A. Yanyshevitch began theich climb via Ukraininan (2003) route on Great Trango Tower NW Face.

5 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: the team set Camp 2 on 6750 m On photo: Kuban climber above Camp 2. There's chest-deep snow above C3 - all teams need of the cooperation their forces to climb the upper part of K2 in such snow conditions.

4 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition after acclimatization at 4600 and 5500 m have choosen routes on NW Face Trango Tower. One team decided to climb the Ukraininan route (2003), other team - to do the first climb. They will start July, 6.

4 July 2007 Broad peak. The team of "Romantic Chiefs" (Russian-Latvian International team) set Camp 2 and descended to BC

4 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: the team set camp 1 on Abruzzi ridge. 

4 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team reached BC at 3900 m after  15 time crossing Shaksgam river by camels.

1 July 2007 The team of "Romantic Chiefs" from Saint Petersburg reached Broad peak BC. They hope to climb this Karakorum giant. Today they have visited Russian K2 West Face expedition. Photo you can see at the official site www.k2-8611.ru