November, 5, 2014Nanga Parbat. Winter expedition. Four alpinists from Saint Petersburg are going to climb this 8000-er. The team: Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval. They'll start from Russia Dec, 22
October, 7, 2014 Snow Leopard.THis year the program was completed by: Lazo Vitaly (RUS), Achim Rinortner (DE), Ishangaliev Asylbek (KZ), Kuznetsov Andrew (RUS) and Horl Hans Gunter (DE). Congratulations!
September, 21, 2014Ararat. Sep, 12, Russian-Ukrainian mini-expedition reached the top of holy Ararat (5137 m). As 24 years ago, during Everest Peace Climb expedition, they climbed together - Russian Vladimir Shataev (77, Moscow), the honored mountaineering coach of the USSR, and Ukrainian Mstislav Gorbenko (67, Odessa), the honored Master of Sports of USSR, they raised the national flags of Ukraine and Russia.
August, 24, 2014. Elbrus record. Today, aug 24, 2014, Vitaly Shkel run from Azau (2400) to the West top (5642) and returned back in 4 hrs 39 min 17 sec (up and down)! The ascent time was 3 hrs 28 min 41 sec. It's great rusult! Very close to Andrzej Bargiel's result (3 hrs 23 min 39 sec), which is still the absolute record of Elbrus climb (set in 2010). BTW, much depends of the condiions on Elbrus, and today the conditions weren't ideal.
July, 27, 2014K2. More summits today! Finnish Samuli Mansikka (without oxygen), Americans Alan Arnette, Matthew Dupuy, Garrett Madison, Kami Rita Sherpa, Fur Kancha Sherpa, Kami Tshering Sherpa. Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Macedonian Zdravko Dejanovic.
July, 26, 2014K2. The unique day! A lot of summits! Good weather. Repost from Raheel Adnan blog: Italians Tamara Lunger, Nikolaus Gruber, Giuseppe Pompili and Michele Cucchi , Pakistans Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig, Ghulam Mehdi, Ali, Muhammad Sadiq , Amin Baig, Spaniard Ferran Latorre, Chris Jensen Burke (NZ/Aus), Czechs Radek Jaros and Travnicek Jan, Britt Adrian Hayes, Sherpas Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Maya Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Tsering Sherpa ... and it's not the full list Congratulations!
July, 25, 2014K2. THe great forecast for the next days! All teams are going to C4.
July, 24, 2014 Success on Broad peak. Yestarday summited Romanian Alex Gavan, Spaniard Jesus Morales, Bulgarian climbers Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov, two Pakistani HAPs Little Hussain and Muhammad Taqi summited along with three Taiwanese, the Mexican couple Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez, Felix Alexander Berg, Richard Michael Stihler, Christian Leitinger and Torsten Neumay,. Pakistani trio, Karim Hayat, Safdar Karim and Naseer Ud-Din, July, 23: Hungarians Szilard Suhajda and Csaba Varga. (info: http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.ru )
June, 26, 2014Yosemity National Park celebtates 150th birthday! June, 30 1874 President Abraham Lincoln signed legislation enacted by Congress that established Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as the first protected wild land for all time. A half century later, in 1890, the land around these two tracts was designated as Yosemite National Park.
June, 26, 20147 summits for Nepali girls. The first Nepali women team climbed Denali, the highest peak in North America. The team reached the summit at 13:45 pm June, 24. Girl's names are: Chunu Shrestha, Pema Diki Sherpa, Asha Kumari Singh, Niomdoma Sherpa and photographer Ang Tshiring Sherpa. The expedition has a target of scaling all the highest peaks of the seven continents. So far it has climbed Everest, Kosciuszko, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. Now, peak Vinson Massif of Antarctica is the destination of expedition.
May, 8, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face.Denis: Artjom and me - we ascended to 7050 m. Alex, Adam and Dmitry going to set C3. We are going to spend the night in the snow cave at 6600 m. Very tired. heading up tomorrow.
May, 6, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face.The third acclimatization push. Yesterday Denis and Artjom ascended to C1. Others started today morning. Now they're in C2 (6600 m). "We have supper in C2. We hardly found our deposit - it took us 6 hours! We're heading futher tomorrow".
May, 5, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) After the difficult climb Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov reached the top! They did the first climb on the SW Face. Descended already to Monjo.
May, 3, 2014Lobuche, Ama Dablam, Ukrainian expedition (Odessa alpclub). Yuri Kilichenko wrote, that the team climbed new route on Lobuche. "The top, planned as training before the main goal Ama Dablam, appeared very serious. We summited after 8 days climb, the new route to Lobuche East. Via two bastions on the East Face, and the diagonal ledge between them. The route is 6A Russian grade, not 5B, as we hoped. We named it "Two arrows flight". Altitude difference 700 m, average steepness 70 degrees. Rock climbing difficulty till 6B, A3. Three nights on the wall. Summited and then descended in no visibility, and heavy snowfall. Now we're on Deboche, searching the weather forecasts...
May, 3, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face. May, 1 Denis and Alex set C2 (6600 m), Adam, Artjom and Dmitry climb there next day. Dan and Alex hoped to summit May, 2, but were obliged to descent to BC. Other three rested in C2, when the small avalanche burried their tent. Only little shock, nobody was injured. All is in BC now.
May, 1, 2014 Ama Dablam (6812 m). In the camp at about 5000 m April 29-30 two Russian climbers died from HAPE: Victor Igolkin (62, Magnitogorsk) and Pavel Ivanovsky (52, Zlatoust). Victor was The Master of Sports of USSR and Russia, 4-times Champion of USSR in mountaineering, Snow Leopard, mountaineering instruktor, coach of the highest category, leader of the Magnitigirsk mountaineering club. He was awardwd by "Edelweiss" order. Pavel was a journalist from "Zlatoust worker".
April, 29, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face. The second push. The goal is to set C2 at 7000 m (North Col). The expedition loads finally arrived to base camp last Friday. However, Alex's personal luggage is missing.
April, 24, 2014Tulagi (7056 m) Tulagi Russian team abandoned the climb Apr, 24 in 200 m before summit
April, 23, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) We'll start to climb tomorrow
April, 18, 2014Everest. The huge avalanche struck at about 6:45am local time at an altitude of about 5,800 metres.13 Sherpas deaths and 3 Sherpas missing. All climbing activities are shut down on the Nepalese/South side of Everest/
The Home Ministry as well as the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation have confirmed the death of 12 mountaineers so far. Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa, Ang Tshiri Sherpa,
Nima Sherpa, Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Chhring Ongchu Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Then Dorjee Sherpa, Phur Tempa Sherpa, Pasag Karma Sherpa, Asman Tamang. Still missing according to the Ministry: Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Ankaji Sherpa, Pem Tenji Sherpa,
Ash Bahadur Gurung
April, 15, 2014Everest. Around 300 climbers will attempt to conquer Mount Everest this year's spring climbing season from Nepal side. Around 300 climbers including youngest Mathew Momiz, 16 and oldest William Mithcell Burkey, 73, from the US and women climbers Deerness Joy Christine, 65, from New Zealand and Azer Alyssa Nicole, 18, from Australia.
April, 4, 2014Ama Dablam. THe expedition organized by Odessa club, will strt April, 8. The team plan to climb Bashkirov route (6a Russian Grade) via South Face and East ridge. Members are: Yuri Kilichenko, Maxim Perevalov, Piotr POberezhny, Yuri Vlasenkov.
April, 4, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) The duo from Saint Petersburg Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov left for Kathmandu March, 30. THey have briefing today. The mountain is connected by a ridge leading eastward to Kangtega. Thamserku is a prominent mountain to the east of Namche Bazaar and lies just north of Kusum Kanguru.
April, 4, 2014Azerbaijan climbers Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashev today left for Nepal, they are going to Shishapangma (8027 m). They'll climb w/o oxygen and Sherpas. Israfil is Snow Leopard, climbed Everest and Kangchenjunga, took part in 58 expeditions. Firuz climbed four 7000ers in Pamir and Tien Shan
March, 30, 2014The Piolets d'Or 2014 was awarded to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 (Canadians Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted) and the South Face of Annapurna solo (Swiss Ueli Steck). The South Face of Annapurna ascent (Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani) received a Special Mention, while Lifetime Achievement award was given to John Roskelley.
March, 26, 2014Tulagi (7056 m) Yesterday the expedition from St. Petersburg started. Climbers are: Valeri Shamalo, Ruslan Kirichenko, Denis Sushko and Andrew Golubev. The planning route: from the north-east.
March, 1, 2014 Nanga Parbat Winter:The attempt of Nanga winter first climb has been abandoned on the both sides
February, 16, 2014American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall in Patagonia. Kellogg and Jens Holsten had climbed the Afanassieff Route on Fitz Roy. They reached the top on Feb, 14 and began their descent via the Supercanaleta route. After the third rappel, one of the ropes got stuck, and while pulling on the cord to try to loosen it, "the rope dislodged a block which hit Chad," Garibotti wrote at Supertopo.com. "He died instantly. It was 9 p.m. Jens continued the descent alone through the night, reaching the base early in the morning to then continue to El Chalten, the nearest town. Because of the complexities of the location, a body recovery will not be attempted."
Very sad news. Our condolences to his friends and family...
December, 15 2013Russsian Piolet D'Or awarded to Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov for Kusum Kanguru climb (new route "Falling into the Void"). Crystal Peak awarded to Denis Veretenin and Jack Bashkirtsev for the new route on Uli Biaho. Steel Angel awarded to women team Marina Kopteva, Galina CHibitok and Anastasia Petrova for their climb to Tengkampoche (route "Fight for love")
Photo by Denis Clero
December, 4 2013Seven Snow Leopards have registered this year, but only two of them have finished the program in 2013: nobody summited Pobeda peak and Communism peak in sesin 2013. Shataev's Table
August, 29 2013 Cerro Torre climbed in winter. Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio has made an outstanding and extremely rare winter ascent by climbing Via dei Ragni and summiting on 30 July. The first winter ascent of Cerro Torre was carried out in 1985 by the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Andrea Sarchi who climbed Maestri's Compressor Route.
August, 22 2013 Kilian Jornet has now run up the Matterhorn Lion ridge, from Cervinia centre in 2hrs 52mins, the record was until then in the hands of Bruno Brunod (1995, 3 hrs 14 min). Catalan started at 15-00 from the church of the Italian town of Cervinia to reach the top (4478 m) in 1h56'15 " The first section consists of mountain roads, the second section consists of snow. Finally, 1,000 meters were climbing with fixed ropes. Kilian will travel to Russia next to try to set the record the ascent and descent of Elbrus (5642m).
August, 16 2013 Jubilees. Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan): 60!Bio and achievements. In bithday Vladimir was awarded a medal of the Kazakhstan Olympic Committee
28 July, 2013 Ê2. Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali, have been killed by an avalanche at Camp 3. have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche. THey reached it Jult, 26. No contacts from next morning. The Sherpas have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche.. Marty was Schmidt, 53, and Denali, 25
28 July, 2013 Ê2. All teams decided to abort the attempts because of bad snow conditions on the route. Only Marty Schmidt and his son Denali stay on K2.
28 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. The week ago Spanish climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso reached the top. But no contacts then from July, 22. All attempts to search missing climbers were failed. Guys were officially announced died. Our sinsere condolences...
21 July, 2013 Peak Pogrebetskogo. Kazakhs Gennady Durov and Murat Otepbaev climbed the new route. Detales later.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians summited!!! Four climbers - Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok and Aurel Salasan - Jult, 18 set camp at 7500 ì. Marius started from the camp on 1 a.m. (and reached the summit first), others summited on 4 a.m.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians climbed up to C5 (7300 m) today. There are three of team members. Tomorrow they're going to set next high-altitude camp, and July, 18 to reach the top from there.
15 July, 2013Khan Tengri direct. SErguey Seliverstov (Bishkek) and SErge Hardi (France) are going to climb direct on KHan's South Face. Previous attempt was in 1982 by the team from Leningrad (Gennady Isachenko (leader), Yuri Razumov, Boris Silin, Andrew Laletin, Nick Shustrov, Victor Kozlovsky and Yuri Stroganov). At 6500 they were forced to traverse to the Marble ridge. On black-white picture - the route 1982 . On colour picture - the line which duo hopes to climb.
11 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Marcin Kaczkan confirmed Artur's death. Artur fell while descending Japanese Couloir and died. Our sincere condolences to the family and friends...
9 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Artur Hajzer missed. Marcin is rescued and on the way down to camp 1. Tomorrow he probably will reach basecamp.
"On Sunday, July 7 Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan left the camp III (7150 m) to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). Upon reaching the height of 7600 m, they turned back due to strong wind broke off the summit. Reached the camp III (7150 m) and using radio connected with the BC, the expedition
cook, indicating that they will descend to Camp II (6400m) and everything is fine."
"Also on Sunday at 11AM Polish time (1400hrs local time) Isabella Hajzer received a text message from her husband in which he wrote:" Marcin Kaczkan fallen Japanese couloir." We have not managed to make contact with Artur Hajzer, since then. We started rescue operation, managed by the German Gasherbrum Expedition leader Thomas Laemmle. During the night of Sunday to Monday, he sent a team of high-altitude porters, whose aim was to reach Camp II (6400 m). Due to strong winds and snow, they only managed to reach the camp I and turned back to the BC. During the night of Monday to Tuesday weather improved. From Camp I (6000 m) left the group of Russian climbers who reached the camp in the morning and found Marcin there " (www.Explorersweb.com)
8 July, 2013 Broad peak. July, 4 Josef Inhoger reached the summit. It was the first summit in Karakorum in this season. Other six climbers were forced to turn bach from the foresummit due to the deep snow and no fixed ropes.
Jacek Berbeka, the brother of Maciej Berbeka, who missed March, 5 during the descent from the summit, had organized the expedition for search the bodies of Maciej and Tomasz Kowalski. 3 days ago German climbers had found the body of one of Polish climbers at 7900 m. It's unclear yet, was it Maciej or Tomasz. opes to reach that point in the nearest days.
Nanga Parbat. Strong wind didn't allow the team to go for summit. They have descended to lower camp, now and will wait for another summit weather window.
5 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanian team yesterday set C4 at 7200 m. Tonight they are planning the summit bid.
2 July, 2013 In those 2 weeks, when I was out of info sourses (Internet and others) the awful tragedy happened in Nanga Parbat BC (Diamir Face) June, 22. Taliban gunmen murdered ten foreign mountaineers and a Pakistani cook. The victims included three Ukrainians, three Chinese, two Slovaks, a Nepali, a Pakistani, and a Lithuanian. Only two - Pakistani Sher Khan and Chineese Zhang Jingchuan stayed alive in BC, and called for help. Pakistan Army helicopters landed in BC next morning. Other climbers, who were in higher camps on mountain, descended to BC and were evacuated to the army base, then to Islamabad.
The list of victims:
Ukrainians Igor Svergun, Kashaev Badawi, Konyaev Dmitry, Chineses Rao Jianfeng, Yang Chunfeng, Honglu Chen, Lithuanian, Ernestas Marksaitis, Nepali Sona Sherpa, Pakistani Ali Hussain, Slovaks Anton Dobes è Peter Sperka... My deepest condolences...
18 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Attempted to reach C2, but were forced to turn back because of heavy snowfalls. Romanians on Rupal Face set C1 June, 14.
12 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. June, 9 the team arrived to BC. Next day the group ascended to set C1.
7 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Pakistani climbers Karim Hayyat, Naseer Uddin è Sher Khan set C1 on Kinshofer route.
6 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, Ukrainian expedition. Kinshofer route. Today started. Members: Igor Svergun (leader), Alexander Zakolodny, Dmitry Konjaev, Mikhail Kolotushkin, Danil Yasjuk, Badavi Kashaev, Bidzina Gudzhabidze (Georgia), Afi Gigani (Georgia), Anton Dobes (Slovakia), Peter Shperka (Slovakia).
5 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Flew to Islamabad June, 3. Kinshofer route. Members: Ola (Aleksandra) Dzik (POL, leader), Nina Adjanin (SER), Ismail Asgarov (AZ), Israfil AShurly (AZ), Saulius Damulevichius (LTH), Gabriel Filippi (CAN), Igor Karabin (UKR), Gennady Kirievsky (RUS), Gleb Sokolov (RUS), Alexey Kosjakov (RUS), Alexander Lutokhin (RUS), Andrew Manuilov (RUS), Ernestas Marksaitis (LTH), Oleg Obrizan (RUS), Dmitry Sinev (RUS), Yacek Teler (POL), Ivan Tomov (BOL-RUS), Mikhail Veshagin (RUS), Natalia Zenina (LTV).
16 May, 2013Everest. Alexey's body has been airlifted to Kathmandu already. Denis(8 p.m.): three of us - me, Damien Binigas and Lakpa Sherpa - flew to the bottom of the wall, packed the body, carried it to the convenient point (100 m), where the pilot Maurizio Folini took the body and then us too.
16 May, 2013 Lhotse. Victor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin summited Lhotse today, about 1 p.m. Descended to 7800.
15 May, 2013Everest. Can't, can't, can't believe... Good bye, Alex...
Today Morning Alexey Bolotov died on Everest at 5600.
25 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Yesterday the duo reached 7400 and set C3 on normal route for other climbers. Then descended to BC. Today they're going to the valley, Deboche village, for some days rest in green zone, - before the start to the main goal - newroute in alpine style on Everest SW Face.
18 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Alex: We’ve managed to view our route closely—a very good one. Is it scary? Yes, it is! We should make it as quick as possible. But the goal for today is to complete our acclimatization.
3 April, 2013Elbrus: on the slope at 4900 m near Pastukhov rocks rescuers found bodies of climbers, who were missing in the beginning of March: Pole Pavel Gostinski and Iraninan Ali-Atabi Sirelli. Now they're transporting to the valley.